LK3054 Main Fuse burning out at start-up

[drassists]

"immediately on ignition" should be "immediately on turning the switch" - other times it blows after cranking. When cold starting, I turn the key until the glow plug indicates it's ready; after running it and the machine is warm, I don't. The fuse has blown in both situations.

 

[ritcheyvs]

drassists: Is your 3054 as described by Patches or like CK/DK models where a glow light goes on in the instrument panel when you turn the switch to ON and then goes out when it's ready to crank to start the engine? I would not be surprised if there was more than one version of the electrical system.

Sorry for so many questions.

 

[Patches]

Not sure the OP's machine is identical, though it should be. The indicator on my '04 is just a coiled resistance wire which glows red when the plugs are operating and is enclosed in a protective housing on the right side of the dash board adjacent to the switch that operates the directional signals. Hope this helps, as it is not a light enclosed in the tach pod. I told you this was an old style diesel tractor, lol

If you go directly to crank, form the off position of the switch, you do not excite the glow plugs; to do so you must turn the keyswitch in the (opposite) direction

 

[Coyote machine]

Wow, this sounds like a fun one!
Let's try a different approach. Let's see if we can determine why you've had an ongoing 'overcharging of your batteries' issue, that seems to still be happening, correct?
Give us the battery voltage present with the tractor running, by reading across the battery posts, NOT the cable ends attached to the battery.
Give us some history on your tractor too. How many hours on it, and how recently did you install the new v-reg and alternator, and battery. Were all replaced items new from Kioti, (except battery)? What brand and rating on the new battery?
And, what condition are the battery ends, at both the battery and at the location where the ground cable attaches to the frame/chassis?
What is the condition of the wires at the starter, hot and other wires. What is the condition at the fuse box and it's fuses. Is there any corrosion anywhere in the paths I've mentioned.
Are there any loose connections anywhere above?
After answering the above questions run a jumper cable (from a pair of heavy duty jumper cables) from the negative battery post down to a bare metal ground on the tractor. Do this from the negative post of the battery, with the normal ground cable disconnected, temporarily. If the problem goes away, your negative ground cable is bad and not grounding your battery properly. This type of problem with a bad cable can also happen on the positive side of the battery. We'll get to that later if needed.

 

[davehunt00]

I believe this is the correct electrical schema for this tractor (I have the older Kioti LK 3054 as well). This was in another TBN thread but matches the one in my owner's manual.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/kioti-owning-operating/102659d1210816395-lk3054-alternator-diag2-jpg

 

[Coyote machine]

I believe this is the correct electrical schema for this tractor (I have the older Kioti LK 3054 as well). This was in another TBN thread but matches the one in my owner's manual.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/kioti-owning-operating/102659d1210816395-lk3054-alternator-diag2-jpg

Assuming the diagram you supplied is the correct one for the tractor in question; from what I see, in a quick glance the generator and fuseable link and starter are tied together; meaning if the starter draws too much amperage on cranking the engine the fuseable link will blow, protecting the electrical system from burning up.
*I don't see a voltage regulator in the diagram,(CORRECTION: Posts below correct this error- there IS a regulator, at the right lower side of the schematic), but I do see a generator, which is not the same as an alternator.
We need the OP to chime in here on questions posed above, and whether this is the correct electrical diagram for his tractor....

 

[Patches]

The regulator is to the left of the glow plug representation. The schematics for these old 3054s were never updated when they changed from generators to alternators, among many other changes they made. Owners were left pretty much to themselves interpreting issues, especially if they bought them private sale. The manuals are sketchy, at best

 

[ritcheyvs]

Patches: The schematic shows two glow positions; one feeds the glow plugs directly and the other feeds through the indicator you described earlier. Is that how the tractor is really wired? If so, what is the purpose of the two different glow positions?

CM: The main power to the starter winding does not go through the fuse but the recharge current from the generator/alternator does, as does all power to various loads (e.g. lights). See Patches comment on the regulator. Back in the day, many alternators used external mechanical regulators that "buzzed" to regulate current pulses to the rotor, just like old generators.

As an aside, updating old tech data is not a high priority for Kioti, apparently. My DK45s has the newer engine (same engine as in SE) but all available publications only shoe old engine.

 

[Patches]

ritcheyvs; There is only one way to excite the glow plugs and that is through the resistor described earlier (left turn on the keyswitch). As stated, Kioti was/is not high on technical manuals; something about Korenglish, although their parts manual seems reasonable accurate (would have to be if you want to sell parts).

 

[Coyote machine]

The *regulator is to the left of the glow plug representation. The schematics for these old 3054s were never updated when they changed from generators to alternators, among many other changes they made. Owners were left pretty much to themselves interpreting issues, especially if they bought them private sale. The manuals are sketchy, at best

I missed that. Thanks for pointing it out.

Patches: The schematic shows two glow positions; one feeds the glow plugs directly and the other feeds through the indicator you described earlier. Is that how the tractor is really wired? If so, what is the purpose of the two different glow positions?

CM: The main power to the starter winding does not go through the fuse but the recharge current from the generator/alternator does, as does all power to various loads (e.g. lights). See Patches comment on the regulator. Back in the day, many alternators used external mechanical regulators that "buzzed" to regulate current pulses to the rotor, just like old generators.

<snip>

I seem to be firing on none today...:confused3:

Now all we need is OP input...