LK3054 Main Fuse burning out at start-up

[Patches]

Well, seems we've all but taken over his post???

 

[ritcheyvs]

ritcheyvs; There is only one way to excite the glow plugs and that is through the resistor described earlier (left turn on the keyswitch). As stated, Kioti was/is not high on technical manuals; something about Korenglish, although their parts manual seems reasonable accurate (would have to be if you want to sell parts).

Patches: Please help me again with this electrical system. I highlighted the apparent glow circuits in the attached, cropped schematic. It looks like the switch has two glow positions: G1 and G2, where G1 goes through the indicator and G2 goes directly to the glow plugs. Is this schematic wrong (would not be surprised)?



How many switch positions are there? I assume there is OFF, ACCessory, Glow, and STart. It is possible the switch provides simultaneous power to more than one output like other Kioti switches. For example a CK/DK switch powers the lights in all positions except OFF and ACC. I am beginning to think we will not be able to help the OP without physical access to his tractor (or one like it) because we don't know how it's supposed to work and no way to make physical measurements. Maybe one (or more) glow plugs draws too much current? Maybe the switch has some internal short circuit? Maybe the starter solenoid is pulling too much current? The only thing I think we can rule out is the alternator putting too much current back into the battery because this happens before the alteternator gets going.

 

[Patches]

I could see the G2 position on the schematic, but to my knowledge it is in error, however without some testing we'll never know for sure. It is dark and a little chilly but I will check out the possibility tomorrow AM. There are no detents in the switch except for the off and run/accessory position; the G1 must be physically held in position as does the start, naturally. I don't see what purpose the G2 would have as there is no detent or indication the switch is in that position. To my knowledge there are 4 positions in the keyswitch; off, extreme left(G1), back through off to acc/run, and start. I'm afraid I'm not much help right now.

 

[Patches]

In looking at my parts manual, there are two ignition switches listed, one for the 3054 and a superseded one for the 3054xs(T2540-41132 andT2540-41133). Perhaps this is the issue?

 

[drassists]

Well, seems we've all but taken over his post???

Ha! I've was away for the long wkd and caught up in kids' vacation week. I thank you guys for giving me an impressive amount of knowledge with which to work - right now, I'm just trying to keep up. To answer some questions: Yes, ritcheyvs, that is correct schematic. And the glow plug is as Patches described: left to glow, right to run and far right to start. Indicator separate from panel, to the right of switch (yes, old school - 25 yrs old) I haven't had a chance to go through the procedure as suggested by Coyote Machine. Right now, I think my next move is to approach it as a problem with the switch. As suggested, I did work some wd40 into the switch and whether or now that was a fix, it hasn't been a problem since. I'm not sure, but wouldn't a bad switch cut the charge to the battery and a low battery might overwork system and blow fuse???

 

[Coyote machine]

Drassists, If the battery isn't getting what it needs from the charging system, its unlikely to blow the fuse, especially if the voltage is lower than needed to crank over the starter/engine. You need a baseline of at lest 12 Volts at the battery when cranking the engine to start it. It will drop some, but once you get below 11.+/- Volts the engine may not start. It seems that when the condition occurs, you have too much amperage passing through the fuse, thus it blows open, IIRC.
Your switch could definitely be faulty, (possibly intermittent), since you don't say the fuse blows every time you go to start the tractor, correct?
If the problem of the fuse blowing has now stopped due to spraying the ignition switch with WD-40, then it seems you may have it nailed. There could be arcing occurring inside the switch which has led to the big 70 Amp fuse blowing. Removing the switch to clean and inspect it may be your best bet, based on what you just described.
BTW, Welcome back!:thumbsup:

 

[tipoblanco]

i have an older 1986 kioti lb2204 recently purchased a few weeks ago,i have found out the lack of info on my tractor,purchased the shop manual,the dealer actually cut it on price because the images are not view able and its pretty much crap,so if any one has a wiring diagram for mine i would really appreciate it, i noticed today a spark above the starter,upon further investigation it was the fusible link had basically melted the harness and was arcing on the block,also found where the positive cable runs through the bottom of the battery box goes through a metal hole,no grommet or insulation which posed a short issue
also was mentioned a 70amp fuse?would that be the fusible link or is that located somewhere else?