Loader cylinder repair
- Thread starter bones1
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AndyMA
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2000
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- 3,713
- Location
- Windham County, Conn
- Tractor
- Ford 2120 , Kubota MX5200 , Deere X748SE. 1956 Economy Tractor
bones1 said:
the chances that tightening them will cure anything is about zero. I wouldn't touch them. I'd call the dealer and ask if his remote truck is ever in your area and could pick up the cylinders. Otherwise, I would take them off and either deliver them to him or ship them. If you mess with them, the chances of him covering them under warranty are slim. If both cylinders are bad, then chances are that something was left out at the factory. What brand loader/tractor is it?
Andy
AndyMA
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2000
- Messages
- 3,713
- Location
- Windham County, Conn
- Tractor
- Ford 2120 , Kubota MX5200 , Deere X748SE. 1956 Economy Tractor
bones1 said:
I change my opinion on my previous post. Why not ask him to ship you new loader cylinders. Let him deal with the bad ones.
Andy
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I'm with the other guys in agreement that tightening them will accomplish nothing. There are some very specialized seals that keep the fluid from leaking and at the very least, they need to be replaced. Since it only has 28 hours on it, I'm thinking there might be other problems. Are you sure about the hours? Are you covered under warantee? If so, doing it yourself will probably violate your warantee. This can be very bad if it's something more serious than just some bad seals.
I paid $80 for my spanner wrench. It's adjustable and takes a 3/4 inch breaker bar. I had to get a Proto because the cheap ones just bent. Allot of times I also have to torch the fitting to melt the Loctite that's on the threads. Even then, I need to put a ten foot pipe onto my breaker bar to get them off. But I have full sized tractors, so it's a bit of a nightmare when I rebuild mine.
Right now I've spent two days trying to get one apart on my backhoe. I finally got it off after breaking the bolts on my spanner three times and loosing one of the teeth. I ended up welding a bolt into the hole and beating it off with a hammer. Half a day of beating it to bet it an eighth of an inch. This evening I have it a full turn and will finish taking it off tomorrow. Sometimes it's cheaper to drive it to the dealer and pay them to fix it.
Good luck,
Eddie
I paid $80 for my spanner wrench. It's adjustable and takes a 3/4 inch breaker bar. I had to get a Proto because the cheap ones just bent. Allot of times I also have to torch the fitting to melt the Loctite that's on the threads. Even then, I need to put a ten foot pipe onto my breaker bar to get them off. But I have full sized tractors, so it's a bit of a nightmare when I rebuild mine.
Right now I've spent two days trying to get one apart on my backhoe. I finally got it off after breaking the bolts on my spanner three times and loosing one of the teeth. I ended up welding a bolt into the hole and beating it off with a hammer. Half a day of beating it to bet it an eighth of an inch. This evening I have it a full turn and will finish taking it off tomorrow. Sometimes it's cheaper to drive it to the dealer and pay them to fix it.
Good luck,
Eddie
Great ideas guys.Tractor is a Farmtrac 300DTC.It's a nice machine,except for the leaking cylinders.Dealer says he shipped new seals and that Farmtrac can't ship whole cylinders. I suppose I have to pay labor or drive to Richmond and drop it off.Should I call Farmtrac and request new cylinders?.Tractor is new,30 hours now and leaking more each day.I can replace whole cylinders myself but re-sealing them would be a new adventure,one I don't think I should have to do myself.
Takes me a while but I'm starting to get pissed now.
Takes me a while but I'm starting to get pissed now.
Farwell
Veteran Member
I agree with the other guys. The low hours of use on your tractor and your dealer not willing to jump right in and take care of the problem leads me to wonder if you actually bought a new tractor, a manufacture deffect, or a part left out during assembly.
Getting angry with the dealer may help you get started on getting them to help you but blowing off steam at them may not help. When I have this type of problem I want to do a face to face with the person I have to deal with and politely request that they take care of the problem that should be covered by warranty. Then if he will not take care of the problem, contact the manufacturer rep and let him know of your problem.
The dealer telling you that the cylinder shafts are bent causing your problem makes me question the dealers sincerity, using the bury your head in the sand approach of its not our fault, it must be something you did. It was fine when it left our dealership. IMHO
Farwell
Getting angry with the dealer may help you get started on getting them to help you but blowing off steam at them may not help. When I have this type of problem I want to do a face to face with the person I have to deal with and politely request that they take care of the problem that should be covered by warranty. Then if he will not take care of the problem, contact the manufacturer rep and let him know of your problem.
The dealer telling you that the cylinder shafts are bent causing your problem makes me question the dealers sincerity, using the bury your head in the sand approach of its not our fault, it must be something you did. It was fine when it left our dealership. IMHO
Farwell
Thanks Farwell. I appreciate your input very much.I am still waiting for the seals to repair the cylinders. Should I not touch them until I get hold of a Farmtrac factory rep?.If I try to reseal the cylinders it will probably void any warranty,such as it is.Don't know what to do,still thinking about it,and still leaking.
