Loader mounted snow blower

[PILOON]

I think auger designs are OK as they now exist, after all if more efficient then the fan would be 'overfed' and choke up.
Their job is to simply feed enough to the fan.
Teeth is possibly the main improvement that could be added and that to chew hard or frozen snow. Some designs do incorporate that feature.

 

[leonz]

Bon Jour Mon Ami,

I agree completely with the need to add teeth to the auger ribbons like the Yamaha snow throwers as it would break the snow up even more as we have a huge issue with wet snow and freeze melt snow cycles down here.

For what its worth I think the Reist single stage rear mounts that can be converted to a hydraulic drive set up with very little work and they are really really impressive in my opinion.
The Reist Series 1000 units could be motorized too with a quick attach hitch permanently attached to the snow thrower using a Briggs and Stratton 22 horsepower V twin or a 4 cylinder air cooled Wisconsin engine or its equivalent with a dual V belt drive pulley system using a manually tensioned snubber pulley like the British and Italian motorized flail mowers .

My friend Paul Vanderzon thinks that the Reist folks do not have a large enough power rating on their Series 1000 single stage units as they recommend a 15 to 40 PTO horsepower mule to run them.

Stay warm up there Piloon.

I hope the late spring is treating you well. The folks in the St. Lawrence River region are not doing well sadly. I learned this morning that they will be releasing more water from the Niagara river side of things to relieve more pressure on the St. Lawrence River.

I have come to the point where I am going to most likely invest in a Yamaha YS1032J walk behind snow blower and hope the current mule lasts for another year anyway- It has been sad and very costly for me to see John Deere making junk lawn mowers/snowblowers.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Anyone ever see a self contained blower mounted on a rubber tired front end loader? Place where I used to work had one but I never really had a chance to look at it close. So, I have no idea what kind of engine it had or who may have made it. I just happened to look out a door at our cooling towers and saw the maintenance folks using it. We were knee deep in snow and facility issues at the time so I had more important things to deal with.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Where I used to work we had, I think, Caterpiller wheel loaders with probably 20' wide snow blowers with a self contained system they used to clear the parking lots. Probably see those at airports and other large facilities too. I'm sure they make em bigger than that too. I remember seeing them sitting in the equipment yard when not in use and I think they had a fairly big diesel engine that power the blower.

 

[QRTRHRS]

This one I saw was on a modest sized payloader, maybe a Ford. The blower was about the same width as the loader. The facility had several outbuildings accessed by one and two lane mostly paved roads. With 4000 to 6500 employees covering three shifts, the large parking lots were cleared by a contractor. This was in PA in early 1996 when they got around 30 inches during one storm.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The self contained one I use to run, would replace the bucket on any big loader...

It had a 351 Ford V8 for power...

SR

 

[Lowrider2120]

I got the SSQA blank plate for my Summer project of building a FEL self-contained snow blower today. Plan is to make 3 PT hitch tabs on the plate to attach the blower so it can be removed and used on other vehicles if desired. I'm pretty sure I'm using a PTO type slip clutch on the drive train instead of the usual shear bolt and I'm going with chain and sprocket. Not sure about the engine yet but I think it will be mounted in rubber to reduce vibration and ease the stress on the chain. Maybe electric driven chute controls with a cab mounted joy stick or just 2 way switches.

Other thoughts welcome!!

 

[leonz]

I got the SSQA blank plate for my Summer project of building a FEL self-contained snow blower today. Plan is to make 3 PT hitch tabs on the plate to attach the blower so it can be removed and used on other vehicles if desired. I'm pretty sure I'm using a PTO type slip clutch on the drive train instead of the usual shear bolt and I'm going with chain and sprocket. Not sure about the engine yet but I think it will be mounted in rubber to reduce vibration and ease the stress on the chain. Maybe electric driven chute controls with a cab mounted joy stick or just 2 way switches.

Other thoughts welcome!!

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Hello Lowrider,

I will tell you the standard heavy high horsepower Hilliard slip clutch will give too much and stop on you so you should stick with the chain drive to do this-I have two of them on my flail mower and M+W shredder.

Once you have the proper gearing/sprockets to reduce from the high idle at 3,300 RPM at the crank to 540 RPM at the PTO stub to achieve a 6 to 1 reduction you will be fine with it. The roller chain and shear pins on the snow blower auger and impeller will be all you need.

 

[Lowrider2120]

I was planning on 5 to 1 so I didn't need to run WOT all the time.

 

[leonz]

Unless you have fine powder snow all the time I think your still going to have to run it at high idle to maintain your
540 RPM impeller speed to create the fastest rate of discharge as the heat from the snow being blown out of the impeller housing and chute UNLESS you line the impeller housing and the chute and spout to eliminate the metal warming from the friction of the snow being discharged. I always make it a point to dry out the RAD junk I have with a space heater to prevent it from freezing solid and to remove all the snow and water from under the mule and using fluid film as a matter of practice. I am hoping the chute I bought lasts me at least two seasons as they are very expensive. I need to install slick sheet on the chute and in the impeller housing to eliminate clogging as I have the 3 paddle plastic impeller-I know that is where a lot of the belt problems start for these units.

I am surprised that Deere does not have an electromagnetic clutch and shaft drive for these things to eliminate the belts completely.

If you want to run slower your probably going to need two two-row sprockets with 60H or 80H chain.


I wish I was closer I would be able to help more.