Loader mounted snow blower

[Lowrider2120]

I understand what you're saying Leon, but I thought the sliding engine mount would be easier to adjust in the cold of Winter and do chain shortening during Spring maint.

 

[leonz]

NAH!!! nope nope nope chains are nasty in winter especially when the frozen fingers lose the parts to the links as you never have a tarp when you need one to lay on and catch parts or stop ticks

Its better to use the 2 row rubber torsion arm idler sprocket set up so you have zero problems as engines or electric motors that do not sit on mounting trays that are locked in place with threaded rods and dual lock nuts are trouble with a capital T.

You would still need to lock the engine in place with a threaded rod set up on both ends of the oil sump provided the engine mounting plate is large enough to do this.

All you would need is good rubber motor mounts and fine threaded nuts and bolts and washers and red Loctite to secure the engine in place or be sure to weld some thin steel rods to the nuts under the mounting plate to hold all four nuts to prevent them from backing off from any vibration.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Ya lost me on the threaded rods. I'm thinking a steel plate with bolts thru the engine mounting holes and lock washers...or drill the nut and safety wire it.

 

[leonz]

Ya lost me on the threaded rods. I'm thinking a steel plate with bolts thru the engine mounting holes and lock washers...or drill the nut and safety wire it.

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That would work also lowrider, in the underground mine where I retired from we quite often torqued the nut and bolts and also welded thin narrow pieces of steel to the nuts to secure the nuts or bolts threaded into blind holes from vibrating loose on the mining machinery we used.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Bought a 22 hp Honda clone and have the engine mount welded up...saving up for sprockets and chain. Still have a couple months to get it running before it turns white here....more to follow.

 

[leonz]

All you need now is a rubber torsion arm and sprocket and you will be all set.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Yes Sir...and a fuel tank and a battery box and a way to turn the chute, but I'm getting closer.

 

[aczlan]

You can use a winch to turn the chute, spin the chute all the way to one side, unspool the cable to leave 4 wraps around the drum, wrap of around​ the chute 2 to 4 times and run the winch to spin the chute all the way to the other direction. Once its there, wrap the cable back around the drum in the opposite direction 4 times.

Aaron Z

 

[Lowrider2120]

A winch could work.

I have an extra starter that I was going to see if it will turn backwards. If it will by reversing polarity I'll use that...3 way switch with dead in the middle.

 

[PILOON]

A winch could work.

I have an extra starter that I was going to see if it will turn backwards. If it will by reversing polarity I'll use that...3 way switch with dead in the middle.

Starter wont do it as the neg power side is the ground only if you were able to isolate the starter (like isolate with a rubber wrap or something) could it work. Shame is that a starter has all the low RPM torque needed.
Best cheapest bet is the 2000 lb winches offered on many sites or box stores (and they come with reversing switches)
One other source is wheelchair drive motors, low RPM high torque, just need to make up reversing switch.

 

[haroldy]

when I had a loader mounted blower I just used a rope connected at the middle to the chute ,,extended back to my cap

pull one end to turn right ,, turn left by pulling the other end ,, worked great

 

[Lowrider2120]

Hmmm...#2 son said the starter won't go backward. I won't tell him he was correct. Using the motor from the winch is a good idea. I'll do it!

Thanks!!

 

[Lowrider2120]

I got this all working and I posted pictures in the Kioti Operating section under a posting called Diff lock hard to push. Works really well and thanks to everyone for the assistance!!

 

[Lowrider2120]

By request.





Conversion cost about:

Engine: $620 with coupon
QD plate: $100
Chain and sprockets: $175

I had some steel to make the QD attachments and of course expert welding...free. I paid $500 for the rear snow blower so the entire thing cost about $1,500 and allows the whole thing to be lifted up on the FEL to clean up and take it up to blow snow deeper than 16 - 18". We had one snow of about 28" which required two passes but worked fine. I welded a piece of 2" angle on the bottom of the front edge to keep it out of the rocks and also skids on both sides as well. No problem at all with picking up rocks or dirt.

I bought a 2500 lb remote control winch to control the chute but haven't got around to installing it. I haven't found it a big deal setting the chute to throw to the right and do most of my drive and area between the house and shop (80' x 100') using just the "right" setting. I do sometimes set it straight ahead to move snow in different areas. It's 1.3 miles from the house to US 95 so all the neighbors do their part to clean the road. I clean the 1/4 mile along my property and usually the widow's drive and parking area. Takes about 2 hours to do it with the blower from inside a 70F cab...great improvement over heavy clothes and wet condition on my old Ford...but I do kinda miss it.

 

[grsthegreat]

By request.

View attachment 537502View attachment 537503
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Conversion cost about:

Engine: $620 with coupon
QD plate: $100
Chain and sprockets: $175

I had some steel to make the QD attachments and of course expert welding...free. I paid $500 for the rear snow blower so the entire thing cost about $1,500 and allows the whole thing to be lifted up on the FEL to clean up and take it up to blow snow deeper than 16 - 18". We had one snow of about 28" which required two passes but worked fine. I welded a piece of 2" angle on the bottom of the front edge to keep it out of the rocks and also skids on both sides as well. No problem at all with picking up rocks or dirt.

I bought a 2500 lb remote control winch to control the chute but haven't got around to installing it. I haven't found it a big deal setting the chute to throw to the right and do most of my drive and area between the house and shop (80' x 100') using just the "right" setting. I do sometimes set it straight ahead to move snow in different areas. It's 1.3 miles from the house to US 95 so all the neighbors do their part to clean the road. I clean the 1/4 mile along my property and usually the widow's drive and parking area. Takes about 2 hours to do it with the blower from inside a 70F cab...great improvement over heavy clothes and wet condition on my old Ford...but I do kinda miss it.

My area in north idaho still has several feet of snow on the ground. Snow is real wet though. How is that setup in moving this wet snow. Im not having any issues with mine. Ive not had a single snow clog all season. Very odd actually.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Hey GRS,

Finally stopped here. My blower does fine with the wet snow, it just doesn't throw it as far (20 - 30 feet) as it will with the dry fluffy stuff which goes maybe 40'. I can do 12-16" OK but if it get too much deeper I need to make two passes.

I have coated the inside of the auger area and the chute with that lanolin based lube (Fluid something) and it does work pretty well. I also put it on my bucket and the back of my box scraper and nothing sticks to it when I'm pushing snow backwards with it. I must say it works significantly better than food oil spray. By the way, I tried it on resizing rifle cases (6.5 Grendel and .243 Win.) and it works great there too and made my hands soft if that's important to you but it does leave a unique odor on your hands.

 

[grsthegreat]

Hey GRS,

Finally stopped here. My blower does fine with the wet snow, it just doesn't throw it as far (20 - 30 feet) as it will with the dry fluffy stuff which goes maybe 40'. I can do 12-16" OK but if it get too much deeper I need to make two passes.

I have coated the inside of the auger area and the chute with that lanolin based lube (Fluid something) and it does work pretty well. I also put it on my bucket and the back of my box scraper and nothing sticks to it when I'm pushing snow backwards with it. I must say it works significantly better than food oil spray. By the way, I tried it on resizing rifle cases (6.5 Grendel and .243 Win.) and it works great there too and made my hands soft if that's important to you but it does leave a unique odor on your hands.

is that stuff called fluidfilm? thats a lanolin based lube. must make you smell like a wet sheep haha

i was thinking about trying a lube if the wet snow started clogging the chute but so far that hasnt happened. we usually dont get this wet of snow up here

 

[Lowrider2120]

That's it...Fluid Film...maybe more like sheep guts. From the name I thought I could put it in an HVLP and spray it on. Way too thick...kinda like butterscotch pudding but does work.