Log Splitter hydraulic ram fitting broke off.

[_RaT_]

Trying to replace the hydraulic valve and the welded on 1/2" NPT male thread fitting broke off. Where can you get a weldable female flange to replace this poor design? I have tried Surplus Center. It is on the rod end so it is for the return of the ram.

 

[George2615]

Mcmaster-carr has weldolet fittings. Is this something you could use.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[_RaT_]

Mcmaster-carr has weldolet fittings. Is this something you could use.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

EXACTLY, thanks a ton.

 

[LD1]

Never seen one that had welded on male threads. You sure it isn't a nipple that just broke?

You already got the link, but I have welded many fittings that weren't the weldable type. A coupling, or adapter, or bushing. Little grinding and it looks just like a weldable fitting

 

[_RaT_]

Never seen one that had welded on male threads. You sure it isn't a nipple that just broke?

You already got the link, but I have welded many fittings that weren't the weldable type. A coupling, or adapter, or bushing. Little grinding and it looks just like a weldable fitting

I understand what you mean. Here is the closest thing I found to what this log splitter has on it. I probably could weld that on but just not sure if the carbon content will provide a suitable weld.

1/2" NPT Male x 1/2" NPT Female Straight 5405-08-08 Adapter | NPT Female to NPT Male - Straight | NPT to NPT | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

1/2 NPT Male x 1/2 NPT Female Straight 5405-08-08 Adapter, NPT Female to NPT Male - Straight, 1/2 NPTM TO 1/2 NPTF ADAPTER, 1/2 NPT Male x 1/25405-08-08,

www.surpluscenter.com

 

[WranglerX]

How about a picture of actual problem....Then the "collective" could better advise you....

All the splitters I have seen seem to have a female fitting welded to cylinder your statement including the word "male" muddies the waters...

 

[mrmikey]

All the splitters I have seen seem to have a female fitting welded to cylinder.....

Even if it does have a male NPT nipple on it now, I'd be replacing it with a hydraulic coupling instead and get an adaptor for the hose end. Reason being if you ever monkey up the threads you can run a tap thru it, can't run a die over a nipple, it's too short. Not only that, they're a bit heavier wall.
Reason I say hydraulic is they're steel not malleable which you don't want and you can cut it in half and weld it on.............Mike

 

[_RaT_]

Even if it does have a male NPT nipple on it now, I'd be replacing it with a hydraulic coupling instead and get an adaptor for the hose end. Reason being if you ever monkey up the threads you can run a tap thru it, can't run a die over a nipple, it's too short. Not only that, they're a bit heavier wall.
Reason I say hydraulic is they're steel not malleable which you don't want and you can cut it in half and weld it on.............Mike

That is what I am going to do. Just as pictured in the post from George. Much better way to do it, I agree.

 

[nyone]

Why not just weld a female coupler on?

 

[al3]

Just helped a friend repair a log splitter where male fitting became cocked in the female bung of the hydraulic cylinder. Dropped a big piece of pine on the valve assembly (unprotected BTW) and it skewed the fitting about 30 degrees. The top two or three threads were smeared on one side of the female bung.

They were ORB straight walled threads, I was able to first run a thread chaser followed up with a ¾ tap. Cleaned up the threads enough that the replacement male fitting threaded and caught at least three sections of the undisturbed threads. Took torque and didn’t leak. Success.

My fall back was to weld on a new bung like the one below.



AF FBWO-08 - 1/2'' (#8) Female ORB (3/4''-16) Weld On Port [AF FBWO-08] - $8.25 : Clearwater Hydraulics LLC



I’m not a hydraulics expert. Maybe someone can enlighten all of us to the pros and cons of NPT Vs OBR fittings. Would guess the o-ring design of the ORB and a lock nut permit them to be positioned freely.

Lots of different solutions to this problem. Good luck with yours.

 

[WranglerX]

'Most" log splitter control valves (I have worked with) have 1/2 inch NPT female thread on A & B ports and usually use a 1/2 NPT thread nipple to connect to cylinder.... One would have to get a nipple with 1/2 inch NPT thread on one end and other end 1/2 ORB if ORB female was used.... Don't know but may be hard to find... Other option would be a mix up of adapters to get match up...

 

[CalG]

Baily Hydraulics Weld-on ports 1/2 inch NPT part number 750090 $3.73 ea.

 

[_RaT_]

Just helped a friend repair a log splitter where male fitting became cocked in the female bung of the hydraulic cylinder. Dropped a big piece of pine on the valve assembly (unprotected BTW) and it skewed the fitting about 30 degrees. The top two or three threads were smeared on one side of the female bung.

They were ORB straight walled threads, I was able to first run a thread chaser followed up with a ¾ tap. Cleaned up the threads enough that the replacement male fitting threaded and caught at least three sections of the undisturbed threads. Took torque and didn’t leak. Success.

My fall back was to weld on a new bung like the one below.



AF FBWO-08 - 1/2'' (#8) Female ORB (3/4''-16) Weld On Port [AF FBWO-08] - $8.25 : Clearwater Hydraulics LLC



I’m not a hydraulics expert. Maybe someone can enlighten all of us to the pros and cons of NPT Vs OBR fittings. Would guess the o-ring design of the ORB and a lock nut permit them to be positioned freely.

Lots of different solutions to this problem. Good luck with yours.

Good to have a link to that website. The ORB you mention would be better in most situations. In my case the valve is attached directly to the hydraulic cylinder via NPT.

 

[FTG-05]

Baily Hydraulics Weld-on ports 1/2 inch NPT part number 750090 $3.73 ea.

$5 free shipping at Amazon: Weld-On Ports (NPT) for Hydraulic Cylinders 50075: 1/2-14 NPT Port, 1.25" Pin Dia, 750090: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[_RaT_]

$5 free shipping at Amazon: Weld-On Ports (NPT) for Hydraulic Cylinders 50075: 1/2-14 NPT Port, 1.25" Pin Dia, 750090: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

That is where I ordered it. The shipping is not free, I am still waiting for it. FedEx is so stinkin slow. Shipping was $7.02, part was $3.85.

 

[WranglerX]

FEDEX is the poop of shipping, and every one seems to want use it, can not understand how they (their computer/tracking system) can promise a delivery date when they do not have the package in their system yet.....Always have better tracking and delivery with UPS even good old snail mail (USPS) is better... I recently had a promised delivery date that was same date I ordered the item and they did not have yet picked up package from shipper.... Have two packages somewhere in their system now and deliver date keeps changing and there is no record of its movement in online enquires for what they call as "tracking"........

BUT one thing you have to remember just because seller/shipper states item is shipped, does not mean its in motion with any carrier, it just means shipper has it on its loading dock ready for pickup by carrier...

 

[deereman75]

If you went to a local hydraulic repair shop they'd almost certainly have those fittings in stock.
I would have them in my shop at least, and I'd sell you one for $5 and you'd have it right away.

Also I'd caution to take the cylinder apart before welding it on. Both to prevent overheating any of the seals, and to be able to wash any contaminants from welding or grinding out.
Yes, lots of people will say you can get away with welding it assembled. And often you can.
But I've had enough cylinders people tried that with come in to be fixed that I figure it worth mentioning.

 

[ultrarunner]

That is where I ordered it. The shipping is not free, I am still waiting for it. FedEx is so stinkin slow. Shipping was $7.02, part was $3.85.

Daily I receive overnight first out FedEx and near perfect on time.

I think it could be they concentrate on the more lucrative shipping?

Ground is another story... different team, trucks, etc...

 

[_RaT_]

If you went to a local hydraulic repair shop they'd almost certainly have those fittings in stock.
I would have them in my shop at least, and I'd sell you one for $5 and you'd have it right away.

Also I'd caution to take the cylinder apart before welding it on. Both to prevent overheating any of the seals, and to be able to wash any contaminants from welding or grinding out.
Yes, lots of people will say you can get away with welding it assembled. And often you can.
But I've had enough cylinders people tried that with come in to be fixed that I figure it worth mentioning.

That is a good point about going to a local hydraulics shop. We have a place that basically builds hoses immediately. They are expensive but they are as close to the original configuration as possible. They check everything from the angle the fittings are to the exact length. All of the pieces are super high quality components. My job pretty much eliminates getting anything except on a Saturday or Sunday. One of the reasons online purchasing has been helpful for me. Thanks.

 

[_RaT_]

That is a good point about going to a local hydraulics shop. We have a place that basically builds hoses immediately. They are expensive but they are as close to the original configuration as possible. They check everything from the angle the fittings are to the exact length. All of the pieces are super high quality components. My job pretty much eliminates getting anything except on a Saturday or Sunday. One of the reasons online purchasing has been helpful for me. Thanks.

I am trying to remove the end cap on this 5"cylinder. It has a collapsible internal ring with about a 1/2" gap to allow this to happen, problem is, it simply will not release from the cylinder and with no holes like a snap ring would have, it is nearly impossible to get a bite on it. Plenty of rust buster from PB Blaster and screwdriver, to sharp small chisel to get bite on it and it is frozen. Man, I am eating up my valuable weekends on this stupid thing! About ready to just replace the cylinder.