Log Splitter Pressure

[WildArkie]

Well making a divit on the edge of the plug and hitting it using a punch and hammer several times did the trick. I started to think it was not going to do it but it finally gave way.

But, I did not find what I thought I would. There is not a pressure adjustment screw. Just a spring and steel ball pressed against the inlet side. I guess a new log splitter valve is needed.

Now, since my cylinder is 6 inches doesn't that require a different valve compared to smaller cylinders. I thought I saw that somewhere.

 

[J_J]

The control valve should be able to handle the volume from the pump.

The PDF you showed had an adjusting screw. Apparently what you have is an older valve with a non adjustable relief.

 

[glastron23]

the plug ,spring and steel ball are your PR, to adjust it you turn the plug in to increase the pressure and turn it out to decrease it. the plug pushes on the spring that pushes on to the steel ball. the more spring tension applied on to the ball the more hydraulic pressure needed to move the ball off its seat to release oil back to the tank side of the valve. the balls seat is just a hole between the in port and the tank port.
as far as the valve being to small this is not a problem in your case because of the pump size, at 4 to 5 GMP and a 6 inch cylinder you will have a slow machine. at 6 inches you require at least 16 GMP to increase the speed to a good workable speed. Jim

 

[WildArkie]

Then I am still at a loss for what is causing the cylinder to abruptly stop at 800 psi and the engine to bog. The plug seems to be bottomed out after taking it out and putting it back in a few times. It is flush with the valve body so is it ok to be recessed in the port to increase the pressure? The spring was really stiff so that may be why I think it is bottomed out.

 

[J_J]

Your pump is putting out 8.14 at 2500 psi when ran at 3600 rpm. At 1800 rpm, it is putting out 4.1 GPM. At the upper limits you are running out of HP with the 9 HP engine.

Do you know for sure if that hyd gage is any good? Is there any way for you to test the gage, or get another one?

Does the log splitter split any wood.

You can test the pump by putting a relief valve across the pump, set at 2000 psi, and run the hose off the relief valve to the reservoir, After the relief valve, add the needle valve and the output hose to the reservoir, and and open the needle valve all the way. Start the engine, , and run no faster than 1800. Slowly turn the needle valve in and watch the gage. A full test will occur when the needle valve is closed all the way, and the fluid now has to go through the relief valve. What you are doing, is providing resistance to the fluid, and if it is a good pump, it should relieve at 2000 psi.

Your engine can not support 2500 psi, and 8.14 GPM.

If the gage is bad, then it is understandable that the engine will bog down as you stated.

Your engine will bog down trying to pump more than 5.5 GPM, at 2500 psi.

Your pump is not matched to the pumps rated capacity.

 

[J_J]

6 in cyl
2 in rod
4.1 GPM

extend time, in per sec = .6

time to split a 24 in log, will take about 40 sec

push force is 70,686 lbs, or 35 ton

 

[J_J]

I found this .

Nice Energy Single Spool Hydraulic Wood Splitter Valve | eBay

Maybe you can use it. I believe I would get a regular log splitter valve that I posted with detent return. ..

 

[WildArkie]

Thanks for all your help JJ, and everybody else who has commented.

It does split wood as long as it is old and soft. I split several pieces of Sycamore but even a few of those did not split. When it would not split one the cylinder would press against the wood and the gauge would jump to 800 and the engine would bog down. The cylinder stops and will not try to press farther. I let off the valve handle and the gauge drops to zero and the engine comes back up. Same thing at full extend and retract. The gauge will go up to 200 or 400 on some pieces before they split but if it hits 800 it stops.

It has been a while but I think I timed the full extension at about 14 seconds and retract at about 8. I would really like a two stage pump but was trying to use this for a while first.

I know a hydraulic shop that may test the pump for me without charging so I will take it there in the next day or two. I don't have another PR or needle valve. I will see about another gauge.

Same on the valve. I was hoping to use this for awhile before buying another.

Stupid Question: How do you normally know/test the engine rpm? I can use a laser shaft sensor and reflective tape from work.

 

[J_J]

Tach,dwell meter for 4 cycle engine, Photo tach meter, manual touch rpm indicator. The engine sounds different for different rpm.

Small Engine Tachometer Hours Meter

Stewart Warner hand held tach

You touch the rubber shaft end to the rotating shaft, and the rpm is indicated on the meter.

 

[J_J]

Something is still not right here. If you have a 6 in bore cyl, and it has a 2 in shaft, and the engine is turning 1800 shaft rpm, the pump is putting out about 4.1 GPM. I compute 40 sec to extend, and you say about 14 sec.

Again, you don't have the HP to run that pump at 3600 rpm. At around 5.5 GPM's, and max resistance, the engine/pump starts slowing down and if you keep the resistance up, the engine will stall.

Have you tried running the engine at half speed? and if you run the cyl out to full extend, does the engine stall or does the relief activate?

Even at 1/2 engine speed, and if the pump can put out the pressure , the cyl has the capability to produce 35 ton's of force.

Engine/pump rpm's dictate the GPM's through the valve.

You need a 14 HP engine for that pump to develop full potential.