Log Splitter Pressure

[WildArkie]

Thanks guys, ya'll are great. I put up some pictures of the unit for reference. I do not know if the pressure release works or not. I have never changed any settings only installed filter, cleaned and filled hyd. tank, had a shop go through the motor, and had the cylinder redone because it was pouring fluid out on the return stroke. The pump is rated for 2500 psi. Here it is:

Amazon.com: Parker D22AA2A 0.522 4.1 Gpm Sae Aa Parker Gear Pump-D Series: Industrial & Scientific

The CVA-200 Energy valve is as close as I could find. I did not take it off to see any numbers on the bottom side but it looks the same.

http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/16445x.pdf

I have not been able to take the so called plug out that is above the return port to see if there is an adjustment inside. I can't get it to turn. If the pressure release is not working, or does'nt have one, would that cause the cylinder to stop at 800 psi?

 

[J_J]

If the pressure relief is set to 800 psi, any pressure over that is relieved to tank.

You have so many unknowns, that is rather hard to jump on a cause. It is the wrong valve for a log splitter anyway.

 

[J_J]

What is the letter stamped above the port with the slotted plug? If it is a T, then that is your tank port. The slotted port might be a relief valve, but a PRV is normally close to the IN port. I also see that you are using a galvanized fitting for the tee for the gage. That is not recommended. But then again, this might be a low pressure log splitter.



Picture #7

Looking closer at what I thought was a slot, looks like a crack in the plug and port. Anybody else see this?

 

[Leejohn]

The pump looks newer then the rest and I would make sure you are turning it at the right RPM. Some of those oil engines with the oil sumps different then the engine, the out put shaft didn't turn the same as the engine. Make sure it's 1 to 1 and the RPM is 2000 +. If the reliel valve spring is broke, I think I would just another valve and not chock down the intake & return. It looks like someone has tried to get to the relief valve apart before.
You could work 1/2 day just getting the plug out and still might not get a spring for it. The pump if you can get a seal kit for it. Take it apart and lap in the face plates, if the gears are good and I bet they are. You might have to lap a little on the gear faces.

 

[chad22]

Picture #7

Looking closer at what I thought was a slot, looks like a crack in the plug and port. Anybody else see this?

After looking at the photo again. I notice the crack too. I circled the crack in a photo for others to see as well.

Chad

 

[J_J]

After look at the pdf of the valve, that is a relief valve. I believe the body of the valve is cracked, including the relief seat, and most of the fluid is bypassing internally. I am surprised that the valve is not leaking externally. The pictorial in the pdf shows a bolt for the relief, and your valve has a flat face plug.The relief is factory set to 2000 psi, but can be adjusted


Can you clean the valve off and take a picture from the top of the valve.

 

[WildArkie]

I attached more pictures of the valve with it cleaned with a wire brush. The water is from rain. The "crack" that you see is a flat faced plug that has a slit across the diameter of the plug the same as a flat headed type screw. The valve is not leaking anywhere from the body or connections. I do not have anything thin enough, and wide enough, that will turn the plug without twisting. WD-40 has not helped. If the relief under the plug, according to the pdf diagram, is not functioning properly then a new valve will be on the way.

 

[J_J]

The PRV adjustment is 400 to 2500 psi, so yes, someone could have set it to 800 psi. If you can't get to the relief, Your only option is to replace the valve with a $69.95 log splitter valve from Surplus Hydraulics , that has detent on thr return stroke.

You might can take a Dremel tool and deepen the slot on the plug, and soak it in penetrating oil, or use a screw driver and tap on the perimeter of the plug and see if it will loosen. That is just a cap screw, so you could perhaps drill it out. If you look at the parts break down, you can see what is under the cap

 

[SPYDERLK]

or use a screw driver and tap on the perimeter of the plug and see if it will loosen. That is just a cap screw, so you could perhaps drill it out. If you look at the parts break down, you can see what is under the cap

Yes. Make a divit on the perimeter of the plug somewhere away from the slot. Use a drift punch in the divit to drive it CCW [punch delivers much more impulse force than a screwdriver]. I say this because you might split the plug by forcing it using the slot.
larry

 

[Leejohn]

Try a impact driver with a big flat blade screwdive bit.