log splitter valve

[jonsstihl]

Is there such a thing as a log splitter valve that will operate like I want .

I want to be able to push down and have the cylinder extend and then when I let go of the valve I want the cylinder to retract without me pushing the valve up. and it would be nice if it could pop off hydraulically when the cylinder reaches the end of its stroke.

I am planning to build a 3pt tractor splitter because I can't find any locally that are set up the way the one I borrow is.

Is there a term for cylinders that have a mounting plate on the cylinder so that the majority of the cylinder is sitting above the mounting plate unsupported. I'm looking for a cylinder to upsize slightly from the splitter I borrow. The existing cylinder is a 4" OD I'm assuming that is a 3.5" cylinder but it may be a 3" cylinder.

I'm somewhat familiar with the terminology but I need a little help on this one to make sure I get what I want. I think I need a valve that will spring center to a work port with hydraulic pop off.

I just re-read the description after typing my question and I guess this valve will do what I want https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_472_472 So I just need help with teh terminology of the cylinder. Sorry I don<t have pictures, the splitter is not here right now which is why I am thinking of building one.

If you look at the last page of the pdf that is the style of cylinder I am looking for. The problem with that splitter is that the bottom plate is way to thick. just like the wallensteins. I want one with a bottom plate 1" inch thick so I can slide it under a round I can't lift.

 

[jonsstihl]

I've done a little research and seems like I need a centerline flange mount at the head.

 

[jonsstihl]

I have a few more details looks like I need a crosstube mount on the rod and a flange mount on the head side of the cylinder(where the rod comes out)

 

[jonsstihl]

surplus center site seems down, Is there another site that has lots of choice in cylinders

 

[jonsstihl]

Welded Log Splitter Cylinder - 3/4" Work Ports, 4" ID x 24" Stroke x 2.25" Rod OD, 1.5" Rod End, Trunnion Mount - Cylinders - Parts | RuggedMade

Finally found one but it isn't the right size

I guess it is called a trunnion mount

 

[Texasmark]

I built my splitter out of parts I had on hand and Northern tool for the pump, tank, filter and adapter, Lovejoy couplings to connect the pump to a v belt, and controls. They have a control especially made for log splitters with the auto kick out. Prices are very good.

 

[100 td]

You could do it with solenoid valves, to get your automated full cycle end result, bit of mucking around though. Many have hold for split and kick out at end of return. Using a detent valve with a rod off the cylinder you can set the return stroke kick out to what ever length you are splitting, which can save a lot of cycle time.

 

[triptester]

The valve you are looking for is a Auto cycle valve.
1 Spool Prince Auto Cycle Log Splitter Valve w/Power Beyond | Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[jonsstihl]

thanks for the replies, the splitter I borrow has a single lever valve which does not spring to center it springs to the work port so as soon as you let go the wedge moves back up and there is a rod attached to the wedge with an adjustable stop so the stop hits a lever that pushes on the valve to bring it back to neutral before the cylinder reaches the fully retracted position.

I want to keep this splitter simple, just one valve, cylinder and hoses to the tractor remotes

 

[jonsstihl]

I don't think I can get the auto kickout with the valve springing to a work port but I thought it would be nice to have because I've had the stop come loose on the rod and then the cylinder dead heads the pump. If you don't notice the sound change you end up overheating the fluid.

 

[jonsstihl]

can anyone do the math

assuming a 24 inch stroke and 10gpm flow what is the difference in cycle time between a 3.5 inch cylinder and a 4 inch cylinder.

 

[ptsg]

Try this:

Surplus Center Hydraulic calculator

You can do all the math you need.

 

[LD1]

What's wrong with a standard log splitter valve? They are simple.

If I understand.....on the splitter you currently use....you pull (and hold) the valve while it's splitting. The moment you let off it retracts automatically.....until the cylinder retracts completely.....then a mechanical linkage of sorts stopps the valve?

If that's true....a standard valve ain't much different. Instead of simply letting off after the split....just let off and push the other way. It still retracts in auto because there is a decent. And pressure automatically kicks it out rather than some mechanical linkage that adds to complexity.

Also....maybe I missed it but why a trunion mount? Those are about the most complicated cylinders to design a mount for, for the average hobbiest. Just get a welded cylinder with simple clevis ends.

 

[jonsstihl]

thanks for the link to the calculator, didn't realize there was one.

The trunnion mount is so the vertical only splitter can be dropped from about 85" tall to about 50" tall. fits in the garage and is less likely to tip over when stored.

for the trunnion mount my brother in law works for a metal shop that does laser cutting bending and welding so I<m not too worried about designing a mount.

I just really like the way this splitter valve works. Because it is vertical I can picture getting fed up of fighting with the detent as well as gravity when I have been spoiled for the last ten years and just have to let go of the valve.

The surplus center 4X24 trunnion mount for 129$ is looking better every day unfortunately, I can't seem to find one in 30" stroke version.

Talked to a local hydraulic shop and sounds like just the detent would have to be modified. Maybe prince makes a kit to modify the standard valve.

 

[LD1]

Do as you will, your splitter.....

But my advise.....make a vertical/horizontal unit. Just like the commercial ones. Don't make a vertical only....that still has a pivoting cylinder to lay down to fit in garage. (If that's the plan). Make the whole beam pivot and have option to split horizontal if you ever feel like standing up and not bending over.

And.....I know you only asked a few simple questions.....but a splitter isn't as simple as it looks. Lots of things to consider. Just browse Craigslist for homemade sitters. ALOT of what I would consider failed designs.

Don't be one of them. Splitter mfgs got this down to a science, and buy in bulk. Hard to beat them by building.

Have you considered just buying one?

 

[jonsstihl]

I lowered the 3pt hitch on my father in laws so I don't have to bend down to split. I usually split with the 3pt raised all the way up. A 3pt log splitter is fairly simple when there is only a valve and a cylinder. When you start making them tilt they get too far from the tractor and take up lots of space and get more complicated to build. I have looked at buying new but Not one manufacturer has returned my e-mail about prices.



here is a pic of a similar splitter without the retractable setup. If a round is too heavy to lift I just slide the plate under it and back the tractor up. All the other vertical tractor mount splitters have either too small a base plate or too thick or both like the wallensteins.

I am copying a proven design that has worked for the past 20years with no maintenance. no engine to maintain no pump to wear out.

so far I can get the cylinder and valve from surplus center for 230$ so the rest is steel and hoses and fittings. I'm not trying to save money I am trying to get a splitter that has all the features of my father in laws. The company that built his went bankrupt in 2015.

Any info on how to modify the detent in the valve so it will not spring to neutral. I don't really mind if it ends up not having a pressure release at the retract stroke.

Thanks for all the opinions.

 

[LD1]

Don't know the valve on your FIL's....buy I don't think anyone makes one.

Valves are typically spring return to neutral. Meaning nothing happens in neutral.

To have one spring return to retract makes me think of a 2-position valve. No neutral. So what happens when it returns all the way. No neutral to kick into. Only forward or reverse....that's it. It will deadhead a pump.

Which begs another question. What tractor is this used on?. Deadheading would be just fine on a closed center system.

Any pics or specs or mfg info (even though you said they don't make anymore) might be helpful

 

[jonsstihl]

there is a lever that on the splitter that is actuated by the rising wedge that manually returns the valve to the neutral position against the spring tension. the valve is a walvoil unit but may have been modified by the company that built the splitter. I have to listen carefully because if the stop loosens on the rod the valve goes to the retract position and dead heads the pump. My tractor has an open center system.

 

[jonsstihl]

I was just writing to surplus center asking them about that and I realized that if I just remove one spring from the spring to center mechanism and remove the detent ball it would effectively spring to the retract position and let itself be returned to the neutral position by the lever.

I think I may end up getting the prince ls3000 and trying in its original state before modifying it. My only concern is that the pressure release detent will screw my plan up. Am I better off getting a valve with no pressure release detent and modifying the mechanism

got to get to bed. more on this tomorrow.

 

[jonsstihl]

looking at the parts catalog for the prince ls 3000 valve there appears to be only one detent spring. what makes the spool center in the other direction other than the pressure release detent. is it the hydraulic pressure in the inlet port.

OK bed time for real.