Log splitters

   / Log splitters #21  
i like to keep the log sections on the ground after unloading with FEL
then just roll to the vertical log splitter beam, easy.
this current method ruined me long ago compared to my younger manual labor days, but i'll never go back, & i still stay warm
 
   / Log splitters #22  
Like Big Bubba said I just roll large rounds over to the splitter. You can move some really big ones this way, then if you’re good when you tip them flat they end up in the vertical splitter. I’ve also learned to use an axe to help for leverage for moving the rounds, just sink the axe head in. I also use a round to sit on when splitting the larger ones.

One advantage to owning one is you can just work a couple of hours a day, no need to rush.

A picture of how I setup for large rounds, tge round with the axe is the one I sit on.
IMG_1804.jpeg
 
   / Log splitters #23  
About a decade ago I bought a Dirty Hand Tools brand splitter and it has split so much wood I can't even count. My son and I both use it so it gets double duty. I think mine is a twenty ton machine. Some of the higher tonnage machines use the same pump as the lower tonnage machines and because of this the ram comes down slower. This is because of the larger diameter cylinder using more oil because the volume is larger. My splitter is the horizontal/vertical type. My son uses it in the horizontal position. Because of my bad back I use mine in the vertical position. I stack logs close to the splitter, sit on a stump, and move the logs over by hand. I know this is slower but it saves my back. You don't want a back like mine.
Eric
 
   / Log splitters #24  
That was when I had the splitter but no tractor with a loader. Once I did get the loader, I decided to use it - and promply dropped a large round on the splitter and made a nice mess of things. Luckily the steel was soft and easily bent back from pretzle to straight again. Another idea I had was to grapple a manure spreader full with 1/2cord of rounds, and roll them off the back onto the splitter, then toss the splits into a second trailer. It all worked for the most part.
It was mentioned that a flat surface, like the top of an I-beam, is way easier to keep chips off of than the county line types that have the wedge enclosed in rails. Something to look at.
How high were you dropping it from to bend the steel???
 
   / Log splitters #25  
I use the lift to load it up with as many rounds as I can fit and then can lift it to roll them over on the beam. Makes it quick to split and then 8 sec auto retract keeps it moving pretty good

IMG_4187.JPG
 
   / Log splitters #26  
How high were you dropping it from to bend the steel???
Those countyline splitters and clones are meant to withstand cylinder force, and one fg round on the end (fat guy), and thats about it. A 200lb round tipping off the loader from 6" up was enough twist its members.
 
   / Log splitters #27  
I bought a 27 ton Troy Bilt log splitter from Lowes a dozen years ago, or so. The main reason I bought it was the engine. In my opinion, the best small engine is Honda because it will start the easiest year after year. I've never had any trouble starting it, and I've dealt with other brand engines that became almost impossible to start after a few years.

I never considered renting. I knew that it was something that I would use every year.

The tilt function is horrible. Bending over to split rounds that are too big isn't worth the effort. If you cannot pick up a round, then it belongs in the burn pile with the rest of the branches.

I wasn't sure if 27 tons was enough when looking, but I've never had a round that it couldn't split. Most of my firewood is red oak. I guess if you have something harder, you will need a bigger splitter, but for me, this one has plenty of power.

A few years ago, there was a discussion on here about buying gas without ethanol for small engines. I tried it in my log splitter and found that it ran smoother and seemed to have even more power. It also started on the first pull instead of the second or third after sitting for a few months. I've also switched to non-ethanol gas for my chain saws, lawn mowers and Kawasaki Mule. The performance increase has been noticeable and worth the extra money.

I don't think one brand of log splitter is better than another when comparing the hydraulics, frame or any other part except the engine. Find the splitter with a Honda engine and you'll have something that will work for you for decades.
 
   / Log splitters #28  
I bought one on sale from Tractor Supply a couple years ago on sale for around $1000 Canadian. It can be used horizontal or vertical.
As Eddy said, I wasn't sure if it would be strong enough, as I was using one my father built in his welding shop in the late 70's early 80's? that had an automobile engine and hydraulics from a crane and dump truck. But the engine finally died.

But hydraulics have come a long way since then, because this little store bought unit has not had a block of wood I couldn't get through! I was pretty impressed.

So I would buy one. And maintain it. Then you got it any time you ever need it.
 
   / Log splitters #29  
A worn out motor, bad pump and leaky cylinder splitter showed up here one day. I had previously put a large base on the foot for my brother and when they replaced the splitter, he figured I would want that piece of 1" thick plate back. A friend saw the old splitter and decided he wanted to put it back into service. He had the cylinder rebuilt, and then found an almost new splitter online that could be traded for things that go bang. He told me to keep the old one. I put the cylinder back on, and ran some hoses from my JD2555 and it is the power supply to run the splitter. I didn't have any wood burning appliances at the time, but do supply a few older people with wood. Since then my Bride has gotten a fire pit from that beaver place that sells to all kinds of 4 wheeler people but won't let trucks near them.
If I want to split wood, there aren't any headaches of trying to get the engine started, or finding a can of gas or any of that stuff. I just hook it up and go. The JD2555 has the 18 gallon per minute pump on it, so the speed is fine.
David from jax
 
   / Log splitters #30  
I’m trying to decide whether I should buy or rent a log splitter. I’m concerned that I will wear out before the logs are all split. Renting a splitter for 10 days will cost me about $1700, so that number is my hope for a decent splitter. I need to have one that I can roll the logs onto. Any thoughts?
It would help if we knew species and roughly the max size of the rounds you'll be dealing with. Also, do you intend to start selling wood or heating with it? If not, a splitter (either bought or rented) isn't worth it from a financial perspective.
 
   / Log splitters #31  
Like Big Bubba said I just roll large rounds over to the splitter. You can move some really big ones this way, then if you’re good when you tip them flat they end up in the vertical splitter. I’ve also learned to use an axe to help for leverage for moving the rounds, just sink the axe head in. I also use a round to sit on when splitting the larger ones.

One advantage to owning one is you can just work a couple of hours a day, no need to rush.

A picture of how I setup for large rounds, tge round with the axe is the one I sit on.
View attachment 3165742
You bring up a great point. An axe works. The specialized tool called a pulp hook is almost an essential hand tool if splitting wood. It makes the job so much easier that you wonder why it took so long to realize what a gem of a tool it is for this endeavor.
The other tool you’d use as you use the axe is the pickaroon
 
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   / Log splitters #33  
Like anything else, if you own one, it provides additional, frequent, and available uses as necessary. This gets you a frequent, light workout instead of a Major Paine when you need to tackle a very large quantity of wood in a short (rental) time.

BTW: A friend of mine was having trouble with the gas engine on a TSC splitter that I gave her a few years ago. However she recently acquired a Cushman TrailMaster with a hydraulic dump bed AND a set of auxilliary hydraulic ports (skidsteer type) on the side with a control valve !. Took 10 minutes to change the hoses and fittings over and Bingo! With the Cushman engine slightly above idle, the ram has even higher speed and pressure than with the splitter's builtin motor. Gas savings is huge. Plus, the "Cushys" gas motor is a small car engine. Started immediately in +5 F temps here a few weeks ago.
 
   / Log splitters #34  
I split rounds up to 36" of Ash. I have lots of them in the 24-32" range.
Having vertical capability is big for me.
If they get too hard to move into place, I have a small winch on the tractor to help.

Those rounds are heavy and I have a bad shoulder, so sometimes I will use the maul or X27 first, but it's much easier to dump them by the splitter from the FEL and let it pop them.

This is just one of many piles.
20241216_085953[1].jpg
 
   / Log splitters #35  
bought a barreto log splitter used from home depot tool rental for $1000.00 to replace a 30y/o that needed everything. It is actually way overbuilt for me but for the price its a bargin, theres plenty of others i see for sale at the rental places.
 
   / Log splitters #36  
I've been considering the Champion 27 ton. Any reason to talk me out of it?
It's been an awesome splitter for me and I split a ton of wood to sell. It always starts by pull 3 but usually on #2. I split a lot of hickory, oak, and ash and it will handle some massive rounds.
 
   / Log splitters #37  
Our 28 ton is 15 years old. We split about 14 cords a year. Needs the oil changed once a year. I think it was about 1200 new. '
1742817966671.jpeg
 
   / Log splitters #38  
How much are you splitting? Do you split every year, or is this a one time deal? How big of a hurry are you in? Is splitting by hand an option?

If you split every year, rent one a few times first. Try to rent different models with different features to figure out what you like.

If you just need to rent it once (for several days obviously) how much can you split by hand? I went decades spitting by hand only. A Fiskars X27 splits most of my wood in a few easy swings. For a one time deal, I'd split what I could by hand and then rent a splitter for a weekend or two to finish what's left.

If you're not in a hurry, you can also keep an eye on the used market. I gave $475 for my (used) 27T MTD splitter in 2019. It was in great shape. Even if you just need to use it the one time, you can buy a used splitter and get most of your money back. Personally, I won't pay more than 50% of the new price for a used tool of any kind except for a tractor and that's only because tractors hold their value so darn well. Once the splitter has taken its initial 50% hit, it's pretty easy to get all of your money back on the resale (sometimes more).
 
   / Log splitters #39  
I have a Champion 27 ton and it works fine for my needs. A couple of things to consider are that it should not be used for an extended period of time without shutting down to cool off and logs should be 24" or less in length to fit in the channel. I use ethanol free gas since I do not use frequently and it can sit for lengthy periods. Can find on sale or slightly used to save money.
 
   / Log splitters #40  
Do the math. Purchase for $2000. Sell after splitting for half of that ($1000) :
$2000 minus $1000 = $1000 paid to split.
$1700 rent vs. $1000 to split = $700 saved.
Better off renting.
 

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