Log tongs??

[AndyMA]

Just wanted to add my 2 cents. I have been using tongs for many years and currently use non swiveled. Because I hook them to my forks with a short chain they have some swivel, yet maintain a degree of control. I usually use only one tong... why you may ask. Because it forces me to grab the log very close to the center of gravity to lift it and is much safer. I load my bandmill with tongs and find that I do a better job with one tong and a helper steading the end of a balanced log, as opposed to a log being carried on my forks where I can't position it as carefully. Logs can be very deceptive as to where the COG is. And with all their weight and length, they are by far he most dangerous tippy items I move. Also don't buy tongs that are too small. I use 25" or 32" tongs and find they will grab most logs. The 16" tongs are just too small.

 

[slydog]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also don't buy tongs that are too small. I use 25" or 32" tongs and find they will grab most logs. The 16" tongs are just too small. )</font>

Thanks for the advice! I will probably only be dragging the occasional log, and don't anticipate anything tremendously huge. I'd be pulling this with my 1955 Ford 640.

How would you guys recommend doing this with this tractor? I don't have a skid pan, or boom pole. Should I just attach a chain to my drawbar on my 3ph, and drag it from the tongs on the end of the log? Should I consider some type of skid pan, or boom pole set up?

Right now I don't have any front weights on my tractor, so Im skiddish about back flipping. I'd think a boom pole type hook up with this tractor would increase those odds.

Is there some way of estimating green log weight? Length x average diameter x some approximate constant or something?

 

[beenthere]

Try a few different ways with your hookup. I use the top hook of my iMatch (quick attach) with FEL for front weight.

Green wood can be estimated by using 54 #/cu.ft. Use the formula for a cylinder to get the cu.ft. volume of a log. You will be real close if you use the average of the end diameters. The radius squared times 'pie' times the length (all in feet) will give you the volume in cu ft.

 

[slydog]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Try a few different ways with your hookup. I use the top hook of my iMatch (quick attach) with FEL for front weight.

Green wood can be estimated by using 54 #/cu.ft. Use the formula for a cylinder to get the cu.ft. volume of a log. You will be real close if you use the average of the end diameters. The radius squared times 'pie' times the length (all in feet) will give you the volume in cu ft. )</font>

Thank you sir!

 

[GareyD]

Here is a link to a log weight calculator...

Log weight calculator

Hope this helps

GareyD

 

[gabby]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

I will probably only be dragging the occasional log, and don't anticipate anything tremendously huge. I'd be pulling this with my 1955 Ford 640.

How would you guys recommend doing this with this tractor? I don't have a skid pan, or boom pole. Should I just attach a chain to my drawbar on my 3ph, and drag it from the tongs on the end of the log? Should I consider some type of skid pan, or boom pole set up?

Right now I don't have any front weights on my tractor, so Im skiddish about back flipping. I'd think a boom pole type hook up with this tractor would increase those odds.
)</font>

I have moved hundreds of logs with boom pole and tongs. Don't attach the tong out at the tip of the boom pole. Attach much closer to the tractor. Be careful when you notice the front end getting light. When this happens you can drop the boom pole just enough to put some of the log weight back on the ground.

The boom pole does three things for you. First, it gets the log out of the dirt so it drags much more easily and tears up less ground. Second, it lets you grip it vertically with the tongs so they are nearly impossible to slip off because they are not pulling parallel to the grain of the wood. (If you drag the log from the drawbar with the tongs horizontal, they will lose their grip in the log because they are pulling parallel to the grain.) Third, it puts more weight on the rears so you get better traction.

I have bought old tongs at antique stores, and ordered new ones from my Ace Hardware store.
Gabby

 

[slydog]

Excellent!
I had to bookmark that one.

 

[slydog]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
I have moved hundreds of logs with boom pole and tongs. stores, and ordered new ones from my Ace Hardware store.
Gabby )</font>

Man...my wife is gonna kill me. Guess I will be heading back to TSC for a new implement. I'd love to have a boom pole and have already considered getting one. Now I have a good reason...urr...excuse.

 

[Panache]

With my boom pole I ran a length of chain from the mid ring down to the bottom of the boom pole. I hooked the tongs about 1 foot down from the middle loop. this way the boom lifted but the bottom of the boom pole actually did the pulling.

 

[AndyMA]

I've been reading the last few posts and felt I had to pipe in. Using a boom pole to lift and pull logs is a very unsafe practice as it put the pull above the rear axle where it shouldn't be. Lifting them when the tractor remains stationary is ok up to the capacity of the boom pole, 3pt hitch, and tractor weight, but draging via the boom pole is not. The leverage angle is just about perfect to flip the tractor. also the log can swing into the rear of the tractor with terrible results. Why not pull from a bar between the 3pt arms and a hook to the tongs and keep the weight and the pull where it shoud be?

Andy