Logging today

[indianaEPH]

I spent the day cutting and moving large oak logs. I have a guy with a portable saw comming next weekend to make some lumber.

The tractor did well but I was limited in lift capability because of lack of ballast. I had a box blade and a large log strapped to the back but was it was not enough to lift the largest logs I have. The rear would just raise off the ground.

Note to self: build a nice 3 point ballast weight......

 

[IH55a]

Looks like fun!

 

[MIKE R]

That will make some real nice lumber.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

Looks like fun.
nice grapple set-up.
i'm in the process of building a ballast box for my JD2320 right now something around 1100 lbs+/-
i have a new 200cx loader being delivered tomorrow i hope.
i have intentions of building my own grapple new year possibly.
i want to move brush and smaller logs when cutting our fire wood each year.
do you have a seperate scv or use a soleniod valve to operate your grapple?
tom

 

[Grandad4]

That's some serious timber you're moving there. What about your backhoe as ballast? With my equipment - although much smaller than your beast - the backhoe puts about 2,000 lbs on the back... it's the heaviest thing I've got to put back there. Admittedly, the backhoe can be awkward in tight quarters, but from the size of that timber, you're probably not going into close quarters anyhow.

 

[Gordon Gould]

That bottom one is a big log :thumbsup: Makes what I do with my L3010 look puny. Where is the lumber going ??

 

[indianaEPH]

Looks like fun.
nice grapple set-up.
i'm in the process of building a ballast box for my JD2320 right now something around 1100 lbs+/-
i have a new 200cx loader being delivered tomorrow i hope.
i have intentions of building my own grapple new year possibly.
i want to move brush and smaller logs when cutting our fire wood each year.
do you have a seperate scv or use a soleniod valve to operate your grapple?
tom

The M59 has hydraulic 3rd function kit mounted on the loaders and controller on the loader control lever. It is a nice setup. I use to have the grapple on the rear remote on another tractor and it work ok.

 

[indianaEPH]

The back hoe would have been an excellent ballast but this property is about 20 miles from my main house and I needed the box blade to do some driveway grading so I could not take both.

 

[indianaEPH]

We are building a house and barn. This will go to each building. I'll make timbers for the exposed trusses in the house. The rest will go into the barn.

 

[MBTRAC]

Nice tractor & grapple set up - looks to be pretty heavy timber to be lifting, I reckon you might be pushing the front axle limit

 

[cartod]

If you dont have proper ballast, you can put too much strain on front axle. Chain the log and drag it is what I do if its questionable, especially with the hills here in WV. However, that log is not nearly big enough to hurt that M59.

 

[indianaEPH]

Ok, got some photo's of the milling operation. We cut 1200bd ft of red oak. It was a perfect fall day in Indiana yesterday.

The mill is a woodmizer 40 hydraulic. Awsome machine

 

[MIKE R]

Them bandaw mills do a fantastic job. They leave a fairly smooth surface and have alot less waist.

 

[20 20]

Thanks for the pictures, we have a bunch of downed trees(thanks to sandy) that are going to become lumber and house heat.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Looks like pretty nice stuff coming off that mill.

 

[indianaEPH]

Looks like pretty nice stuff coming off that mill.

Yes, I have a lot of clear straight boards. I hope they stay that way while they dry

 

[Bob77064]

That lumber looks really good.

 

[MIKE R]

Are you stacking them with the stickers (wood block to leave air space between each row). We have had good success with pine drying like this. Your local specialty lumber store should have them. They look like the lath out of the old houses.

 

[PapaPerk]

Try skidding the logs instead of carrying

 

[rScotty]

Yes, I have a lot of clear straight boards. I hope they stay that way while they dry

I'm sure you have your own favorite way of stacking green lumber so that it will dry right. It's an art....

I like to put down a plastic tarp to keep the ground damp and spores away. Then I use scrap wood or just some old pallets to raise the bottom of the pile a six inches or more above that tarp. Then do the favorite stack type for your area. Use stickers liberally. Top it off however is best for your climate. I like to just lay some (rusty!) scraps of corrugated tin roofing on the top. Every climate is different.

One trick I've learned which really helps prevent checking around here in my climate - which is very dry - is to put a heavy coat of wax or paint on the ends of the boards to seal the end grain. It adds to the curing time, but the wood ends up nicer. The very best wax is "Anchorseal". Expensive, but it goes a long way.
good luck, nice wood.
rScotty