Logging winch- New user with questions!

   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #41  
Have never heard or seen anybody oil a winch wire for a logging winch, what's the point of that?

Well, I have heard of people that store their logging chains in a bucket of oil.
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #42  
Rust on a wire isn't a problem, after a few drags the wire are as new. Had wires that was a rusted mess, stiff and horrible but after an hour's use my plan to buy a new was sat on hold.
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #43  
p.s. I was wondering if that chain on the driveline was of importance... AND I just took a look at the shaft and found those spring-loaded mechanisms you were talking about (one at each end) to lock it in place. I didn't notice this when I was examining it yesterday and it is not mentioned in the manual. You are making life sooo much easier. I appreciate so much the time everyone takes to reply, and with such detail.
The chain wasn't addressed on my winch either. I am pretty sure it is used to keep the outer shield from spinning. Attach an end of it to a fixed point on the tractor. If you don't that chain will be whipping around.

Doug in SW IA
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #44  
I'm in the non lubricated wire rope (cable) camp also. The idea behind oiling it isn't rust prevention, it's too allow the individual strands of wire to slide past each other more easily. Perhaps it is beneficial, but I'm not interested in the mess, and I definitely don't want oil near my winch clutch.
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #45  
Not to mention all the dirt that oil will pick up when dragging the wire rope through the dirt...depositing that dirt/mud in the winch!!

I run the wire rope on MY Wallenstein FX90 DRY, and I'm still on my first wire rope, no problem at all!

SR

I've never oiled mine either, which is why I asked what the manufacturer recommends.
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #46  
One other thing I almost forgot (I did not read back through, hopefully someone else mentioned it):

Before using your winch for the first time, Unwind the cable almost all the way (leave just a few wraps on the drum), stretch it out, and then wind it back in under load. You can pull an old log, or even tie the cable to a tree, put the tractor in neutral and winch your tractor to the tree. The cable on a new winch is often not wound on the drum tightly. If it's loose enough, when you unwind it part way and pull a load back in, the wraps can pull down into the lower layers if they are loose. You may not notice this on the way in, but you surely will when you try to pull it back out. A tight wind on the drum prevents this.

Similarly, if you ever find yourself with a bunch of cable unspooled with a lot of slack in it, put some back tension on it as you wind back in. Keeping a good load on it is best, but even a helper pulling back on the loose end is better than nothing. When I am working alone, I'll step on the cable and pull it in under my foot. One thing you do NOT want to do is grab the cable and let it slide through your hands as you winch it in. If you have a little fraying or a burr, it can do a lot of damage as it slides through your hand - the stray end of a broken strand can poke through most gloves.
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #47  
Skip oiling the winch's cable, (AKA wire rope) for all the reasons stated by other winch owners. You don't ever want grease or oil of any kind on your winch clutch disc, trust me on this; I tried lubing the cable slightly only once, and had to dismantle a good portion of the surrounding shielding to clean the disc- let's just say I got lucky and escaped without more dire results!:shocked:

For greasing the PTO shaft sections, use any high quality grease, available like toothpaste, in any TSC or other local store. I like to use, if available, marine spec grease, partly because I have a boat to grease too.
If you don't already have a grease gun buy one and include a whip/flex hose along with whatever ridgid pipe it may come with. Your best bet it to buy a case of grease, maybe 6 cartridges total.

Grease: one can't get unscatherd by grease. Accept it as fact of life and deal with the consequences. Wear clothes you don't care about, and wash separately from anything you do care about.

Now unlocking the mystery about grease gun loading. It's really about releasing all the air from the gun and grease cartridge. The most important part of the video is being able to leave the screw on top of the gun loose when removing the air, but not so loose the top gets blown off, or allows a bunch of grease out. When you see grease coming out of the top section of the gun, then is when to tighten the section snugly to prevent any grease from leaking out.

Video: How to Load a Grease Gun

Your gun may or may not have the extra air release shown in the video. If for some reason the gun does not dispense grease after following the outlined procedure, you will start over by first pulling back the follower rod handle, (same as the vid shows when changing cartridges), then slightly adjusting the cartridge, as necessary, or sometimes adding a slight amount of grease from an as yet unused spare cartridge to fill up the any cavity to create the best seal at the underside of the threaded top section of the gun. Then reassemble, as shown in the video. It sometimes takes a few tries to get a new gun/cartridge to seal off all the air. Once accomplished it should function as designed.

Note the knurled section at the end of the flex hose. This section unscrews with a pair of pliers, to allow for being able to remove the hose from difficult zerks on any piece of equipment being greased. All you have to do before using the gun the first time is make the knurled section be able to turn without having to attach pliers to it - finger tight. This way if it gets stuck you don't have to try to access the knurled section on some impossible to reach zerk fitting.

Locate the zerk fittings on the PTO shaft. You can bench grease them before final assembly of the cut to length section(s) of the shaft, which should be easier than trying to do so in the confines of the 3PH assembly of the tractor and winch merging. Note to look for a grease fittings, (zerks) on your winch too. Usually where the main bearings are where the shaft passes through the cable drum there may be zerks on each side.

When applying grease usual method is 2-3 pumps of the handle on average. Too much grease can be as bad as not enough, so go by the 2-3 pumps for now. When greasing the PTO shaft bearings at each end look for grease squeezing out of any bearing you are greasing around the 3rd handle pump. When you see, if able to, grease squeezing out of the bearing, NOT the zerk fitting, then stop applying grease. If grease is coming out of the zerk you don't have enough pressure against the zerk or the end of hose fitting is too loose; tighten it up with your fingers, but not while pumping the handle. Apply adequate force to hold the hose end tight to the zerk so grease doesn't come out at the zerk. If it does you can save it in a plastic container to apply to places like the shaft sections when doing periodic maintenance.

Here's what I'd do: cut the PTO shaft to the proper length. Clean both sections so there are no rough metal edges where you cut. Apply grease to the length of the male section of the shaft and insert into the female section, AFTER having put the plastic cover over each section. Make sure the holes to access the zerk with the cover on is aligned to allow access when the assembly is on the tractor. Done.

Now comes the 'fun' part of pulling back the collar to allow the shaft to lock onto the spline on the winch and on the tractor. If you have a handy helper nearby enlist them. It is possible to do by oneself, but it's WAY easier to ask for help, especially the first time. I find once I've attached the winch or brush hog or whatever implement one is attaching, to then carefully see what has to be done to mount the tractor end of the shaft. I usually hang the short retaining chain attached to the sleeve/cover to something that will assist while I try to lift the shaft/cover and pull back on the retaining collar at the same time. You need to not just pull the collar back toward you, you also have to line up the male splines on the tractor with the female ones on the PTO shaft. It's not easy and the collar will take two hands worth of pulling back on it to hold it in place while trying to slide it to where it locks in place. Having fun yet?! :eek:
Don't be frustrated if it takes a long time to get it attached and locked in place the first few times. Try to develop and remember, or note what worked for you for next time. When the collar is locked and you've verified same by trying to slide the shaft back off the tractor's PTO short shaft, hook up the sleeve/collar's retaining chain somewhere where it will be able to travel with the PTO shaft when the winch is raised/lowered.

(FWIW, I keep a series of notes for various difficult to do functions on different pieces of equipment for future reference, especially since I may only perform certain functions once or twice /year). I also find useful to log when I last greased what. So say I greased my winch today, I would note it on my grease log so I know when it was last done, and what else might need attention. Log it at date and # of hours on the tractor, both are useful for reference and keeping records of maintenance.
Hope this covers about everything so far? If not, or you have specific questions about something you're struggling with or don't understand you can PM me if you want to.

Good luck, go slow, tie up your hair, and secure long sleeves loose clothing. Have someone around where you are working in case you need assistance. Do NOT work completely alone with nobody knowing where you are and what you're doing, when you expect to return to house or barn, etc. That is a very powerful winch, take proper precautions when using it. You respect it - it will be respectful back.

Cheers!

CM
 
Last edited:
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #48  
MY Wallenstein FX doesn't have the "collar" type pto shaft, it has a "button" type and I like it much better than the collar!

SR
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #49  
MY Wallenstein FX doesn't have the "collar" type pto shaft, it has a "button" type and I like it much better than the collar!

SR

Want to trade?!
 
   / Logging winch- New user with questions! #50  
Some PTO shafts have a button that you press in, instead of the collar that you pull back. The locking mechanism locks into the groove on the tractor PTO stub. When you get it on slide it back and forth to make sure that it's locked in. I usually can hear and feel it click in.

You can use a bungy cord around the top link to hold the shaft up so you don't have to both hold it up and try to connect it. I leave my shafts on their implements and disconnect the tractor end when changing implements. I disconnect the implement end and put the shaft on the floor to grease it.

My tractor has a two speed PTO. The shift lever has a neutral position. There's also an electric switch to turn the PTO on and off. When the lever's in gear and not in neutral, I can't turn the PTO stub by hand. So I put it in neutral when I am hooking up an implement. That way I can turn the stub on the tractor until the splines line up with the shaft, rather than having to turn the implement. The chipper's got a 200 lb flywheel and I can't turn it by hand. Your tractor may have something similar. Of course I have the tractor engine off when I'm connecting or disconnecting the PTO shaft.
 
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

UNUSED LANDHONOR 5 FINGER ROCK & TREE HAND (A50460)
UNUSED LANDHONOR 5...
UNUSED 2025 INDUSTRIAS AMERICA 7014R DUMP TRL (A50459)
UNUSED 2025...
2002 Ford Thunderbird Convertible (A48082)
2002 Ford...
CATALOG IS A GUIDE ONLY!! (A50774)
CATALOG IS A GUIDE...
2018 JLG 3246ES 32ft Scissor Lift (A49346)
2018 JLG 3246ES...
2015 Ford Explorer (MPV), VIN # 1FM5K7B95FGC07547 (A48836)
2015 Ford Explorer...
 
Top