Logging Winch

[tessiers]

I am in the market for a logging winch for my john deere 790 tractor.

I am tossed up between the Norse 290
130' cable
3 chain chokers with gliders
No drive shaft
$1995.00 Right in town From a logging supply house that I have had excellent luck in dealing with

and the Farmi 351P
165' cable
3 gliders no chockers
With Drive Shaft
$3495.00 Next town over from the dealer that I got the tractor at, who has also had great service

This is for my own use only and I will not be hireing out. I own a small woodlot and cut about 15 cords per year of firewood and plan to cut some saw logs for my own use as well.

Because I will not use it commercially I am leaning towards the Norse because of Cost. $1500.00 is quite a chunk of change as long as the Norse is a good winch, I don't want to buy something I will have problems with later if I can help it

 

[ChuckinNH]

Is the Norse rated the same, and does it use the same size / diameter cable? I was looking at a Farmi 290, but that may be smaller than you need.

 

[tessiers]

The Norse is in between the farmi 290 and 351 as far as size goes.

The 351 is offered with or without the dozer blade. I use my bucket now, so I don't know if that is a worthwhile option or not?

The other thing the farmi has over the norse is a lower pulley. This is used for skidding but I thought you are supposed to hook the chains on the hooks to skid so it shouldn't matter where the pulley is, right?

I guess I know less than I should, hopefully you people can help me out.

Right now I have an arch that goes on the 3 pt hitch. I back over the log, pick up the butt end and go. That works great if you can get to the tree but I think a winch would make life a lot easier, especially with several smaller trees.

 

[SFish]

I have a Farmi 351 with the dozer blade. I don't use the blade for dirt work, but it is very usefull when winching logs. When you pull from the top pulley there is downforce on the blade and the tractor is pulled backward a little such that the blade digs in and belays the tractor.

Sometimes when pulling very hard from the top pulley there is enough leverage to tip the tractor sideways if the cable is not exactly straight, and I have lifted the front wheels off the ground (JD3320 with loader). In this case you can back the blade down into the ground with the tractor, and then pull from the lower pully.

I am very satisfied with the Farmi but haven't seen a Norse at work so I can't compare. Steve

 

[Diesel-ME]

I use a Farmi 501 for similar uses as the poster describes. I did not check out the Norse too closely as my NH dealer had the Farmi in stock and I bought it along with the tractor.

The "dozer" blade is really really handy. You can use it just like you would with a skidder dozer blade - to push your logs into neater and higher piles. And you definately want to lower it for grip before you winch. I've never seen a loging winch w/o the blade, but I see what you mean after looking at the Farmi distributers web site. I leave my winch on all winter and it's excellent extra weight for snow plowing. Plus the dozer blade comes in real handy for breaking up hard crusty snow/ice.

I clip on all my choker chains to the winch body for skidding out of the woods, but if you want to pull with the cable, you use the lower pulley and then set the drum lock to keep the cable from unspooling.

My local logging supply house, which also sells the Norse winch, sells choker chains for about $17-$20. I like the ones with the ring on the end (and the long pin) as opposed to the hooked end.

While I did not look the Norse over too closely, my impression in passing is that it's a lighter-duty winch than the Farmi - but I could be wrong. But I'm sure that I could have picked up a Norse and liked it too

In any case - I have no complaints at all with my Farmi. It may or may not be worth the extra $$, but when I buy something like that I expect to keep it so long that the difference in initial price should not matter. In my neck of the woods the Farmi seems to have more dealers (parts sources and expertise).

~Paul

 

[john_bud]

You should check the 3pt capacity of the 790 compared to the size winches you are looking at. That might sway the decision.

I was looking to get a logging wench, but my wife didn't like the look of "paula bunyon". he he he - couldn't resist.

jb

 

[GV40U]

I've used a Farmi JL351P for 3 years. The dozer blade is handy to anchor the winch and push logs into piles though I use my grapple more for that purpose. If you buy a winch, leave some money in the budget for a self-releasing snatch block so you can winch around corners and fell (smaller) trees in predictable directions without aiming them at your own tractor. The Farmi version of this is illustrated on the following link:

self-releasing snatch block

I find the winch removes a lot of stress and adds control and safety while working in the woodlot. The tractor can stay on a solid level surface and soil compaction is reduced by using the winch to avoid driving among the trees. I recommend that you purchase the best quality winch with the longest cable that you can afford and that fits your tractor.

Good luck and work safely in your woodlot

 

[Luke_theDrifter]

How about some pictures, or links to find the pictures?

I've thought about trying to skid some logs, and have using a tow strap behind the box scraper on my frozen ice-covered driveway, but what about in the woods? Using a 35hp 4x4 Kubota what size logs do you suppose a guy could skid?

Is the set-up you guys are talking about a 3 point attachment? With a small winch? How do the tractor tires hold up while using one in the woods? I seem to have a hard time keeping my front tires on the rim....snag the side of a small logs and the bead pops off, this has happened a couple of times to me already.

 

[Youare]

Norse made a good product. I looked at both before I bought a Farmi winch. The reason for going with the Farmi was that brand was sold by the dealer I was purchasing a tractor from so I got them as a package deal.

Compare the specs on both of them; tractor HP, line pull, dozer blade, cable diameter and length, and the weight of the unit. The more a winch weighs usually indicates its ruggedness.

Randy

 

[arrow]

The Norse, for what you are harvesting per year, will do you just fine

 

[arrow]

Luke, the logs one can skidthrough the woods does not have so much to do with tractor hp but tire size and type, ground clearance and traction. Popping beads thru the woods should not be happening so first check tire pressure and then make sure you have the correct rim to tire size especially if you bought the tractor second hand. Below is a pic of my JD 750 with a wopping 20 hp. On that second picture, you can hardly make it out but the tree is a blow down that when falling, got hung up and almost cracked in half. I trusted the 750 to finish breaking the tree and then pull the hang up down. Worked just right and didn't even have to get off the tractor (except to take the photo) for a rehitch.

 

[SFish]

In the picture my JD 3320 looks pretty small next to the tree. I was able to pull it over and pivot it around so I could get past to some other work with the Farmi (hooked up for pull on lower left). I didn't get a chance to buck it into logs to see how long a section I could skid before the guy with the excavator came in. I have one fir down that is half again larger in diameter that I will fool around with when I get time. Clair is riding her whale.

Steve

 

[arrow]

Too bad. We could of started a pool as to how long a section the 3320 would skid of that fir.

 

[jimmysisson]

I have an old Norse 2500, probabaly equivalent to the 290 Farmi. I practically never use the lower pulley, maybe 5% of the time. Usually I'm pulling the tree to the tractor, not skidding though. Mine has feet, not a blade, to rest on the ground. A blade would be preferable, especially if it's slippery conditions. The winch will have to be sized to the weight of the tractor, as stated, it can pull the tractor around easily. My rig weighs around 3 ton and slides easily if a tree gets jammed up. Snatch block at a minimum, self-releasing saves time.
Jim

 

[Northland]

I too would save the $1500 and buy the Norse given the limited amount of work you have for it.

I had an opportunity to buy a Farmi 351 w/o dozer blade for $2200 but one of it's legs was badly bent and the unit was heavily used so I passed. I would rather have paid $3500 for a new one.

For now I use sling chokers and my bucket grapple to get my wood out. A winch would be better but then I would have to lose my rear carry-all that I stack the bucked logs on.

 

[tessiers]

Thanks for the replies

I have decided on the Norse 290 mostly because of the cost.

I ordered it today with a self releasing snatch block. That looks like it is a real time saver to me. Should be in by weeks end.

Total cost with "tax title and documentation" was $2275.00 including the drive shaft and snatch block.

 

[Luke_theDrifter]

I need to get better at looking things up on the web, maybe I'm not using the right phrases in my search

I'm trying to find a dealer for the Farmi Skid winches in the Seattle Washington area.....I'd kindly appricate a referal to a local dealer someone has dealt with before. Specifically I'm in the market for the 351P model....maybe someone has a good used for sale?

 

[AndyMA]

I've had both Farmi 351 P and 501's. Both are excellent and have excellent support. I second the notion of the Farmi self releasing snatch block. It is a lifesaver.

Andy