Logsplitter 2.0

   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#232  
Thanks guys.

It's sure nice not to have to beat my elbow to death any longer splitting by hand :D

The wife - who has been helping to split wood (by hand) - drove up yesterday just as I was coming back outside to split some more, after having started a fire in the furnace.

She said "Alright ! ... Let's see what that thing can do ..."

So I split some while she sat and watched from inside her van. She was impressed (always nice when that happens) ... probably mostly by the speed and ease ... after having spent some quality time herself with a 10 lb. sledge and wedge.
 
Last edited:
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#233  
Here's a couple of items that, in hindsight, I would do a little differently:

1. Log lift hinge.

I used 5/8" hot roll solid round for the pins ... seems a little undersized to me now. Probably would have been better to use 3/4" or 1" pins and used some bosses on the brackets (which are 3/8" thick) or on the log lift frame tubes. The hinge and pins aren't really greasable at this point ... and I suspect they will probably wear pretty quick.

Another thing is the actual location of the log lift itself when it's raised - it's high and close enough to the beam that the push block will hit it if the push block cylinder is extended while the log lift is up. In fact, I've already managed to do that ... fortunately I was at least paying enough attention to stop it ... otherwise I would ripped the brackets completely off the beam. I could handle this pretty easily by trimming about an inch or so off the top of the log lift frame.

2. Fold-up table grate. By choosing to locate the bolts, which the table grate pivots on, at the very end of the table (nearest the splitter beam), the table grate cannot be folded up all the way when the log lift is in it's raised position. This could have been avoided by relocating the bolts which provide the pivot, a few inches further out towards the end of the beam.

3. Riser for the filler/vent cap on the reservoir. (This one is for CDN Farm Boy :D) I used a small (1" tall) riser from Surplus Center that was pre-drilled for the filler vent cap and welded that directly to the reservoir. Yesterday when I set up to split, the splitter wasn't level, with the side of the of the reservoir with the filler/vent cap on the low side. During the first cycle of the push block cylinder, it promptly puked out that quart or so of fluid that I used to top off the reservoir.

Apparently I didn't leave quite enough airspace ... :D

Probably should have used some 3" pipe (which I actually have) to extend the riser up several inches.

4. Location of the suction strainer. I mounted this on the side of the reservoir ... and, as such, it sits up off the bottom of the reservoir by about an inch or so. Locating it on the bottom of the reservoir would have given me more usable drawdown capacity for the hydraulic fluid. Practically, I don't think is going to be a problem, but it could have been ... particularly if I had used a larger diameter or longer cylinder.

There are probably some other items but the above are a few that I came up with off the top of my head.
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #234  
I think you will end up wanting to re do the log lift hinges. Either before or after someone accidentally tears them off;)

On my last splitter I used pillow blocks.... This time I used pipe over round stock. There is to much play in them to make it worthwhile to even grease them. In practice the lift gets relatively little use so I think they shouldn't wear too fast. Hopefully I have a lathe to make replacements by the time they wear out
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #235  
Here's a couple of items that, in hindsight, I would do a little differently:

1. Log lift hinge.

I used 5/8" hot roll solid round for the pins ... seems a little undersized to me now. Probably would have been better to use 3/4" or 1" pins and used some bosses on the brackets (which are 3/8" thick) or on the log lift frame tubes. The hinge and pins aren't really greasable at this point ... and I suspect they will probably wear pretty quick.

Another thing is the actual location of the log lift itself when it's raised - it's high and close enough to the beam that the push block will hit it if the push block cylinder is extended while the log lift is up. In fact, I've already managed to do that ... fortunately I was at least paying enough attention to stop it ... otherwise I would ripped the brackets completely off the beam. I could handle this pretty easily by trimming about an inch or so off the top of the log lift frame.

I used pipe inside of pipe. With the pipe at the end of the log lift table there are no pinch points. I did drill and tap the log lift pipe and installed a grease fitting.

IMG_1647.jpg
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0 #236  
Here's the split fire design that I borrowed. I don't think they have fittings... The hinge looks to have a lot of play. image.jpg
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#237  
Geesh, I need to find a deal or 3 like that. Lucky you. :thumbsup:
Dunno if I mentioned this or not before, but look around for one-man or smallish outfits that do tree work and don't want to hassle with selling the wood and are just looking to dump/get rid of it.

My young helper's stepfather bought over his 6 x 12 trailer today loaded with wood that his stepson cut down in the last day or so ... appears to be apple. Trailer capacity is 3500 lbs ... the tires were flattened out and bulging ... ;)

Got about 1/2 of it split today ...
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#238  
I think you will end up wanting to re do the log lift hinges. Either before or after someone accidentally tears them off;)
LOL ... yeah ...

I've managed to hit the lift twice more since I last posted about it ... too many Homer Simpson moments ... :laughing:

Good news is my welds appear to be holding ... :D

But I think modification for clearance is on the "to do" list for tomorrow.

On my last splitter I used pillow blocks....
Now that's an idea ...

This time I used pipe over round stock. There is to much play in them to make it worthwhile to even grease them.
Right.

In practice the lift gets relatively little use so I think they shouldn't wear too fast.
Makes sense.

I can see where here it might not get used all that much - if I'm gathering wood here off the property. The rounds - which tend to be smaller - go into the loader bucket ... which is it's own "log lift" ...

But I've been using it quite a bit today with what I had on hand ... load it with 6 - 8 rounds and then use it as an infeed table.

Of course, that does have it's (potential) downsides ... :rolleyes:

Hopefully I have a lathe to make replacements by the time they wear out
There ya go ... :thumbsup:
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#239  
I used pipe inside of pipe. With the pipe at the end of the log lift table there are no pinch points.

I did drill and tap the log lift pipe and installed a grease fitting.
Nice ... looks good ... :thumbsup:
 
   / Logsplitter 2.0
  • Thread Starter
#240  
Here's the split fire design that I borrowed. I don't think they have fittings... The hinge looks to have a lot of play.
Like it - nice and simple ... plus it allows for having a cradle/support on both sides and not just one (something I can already see the benefit of)
 

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