CDN Farm Boy
Veteran Member
Am I seeing that right and you greased the main beam for the push plate? Won't the grease collect debris and wear things out faster? Not to mention getting grease on your splits. I always thought they ran dry.
Logsplitter 2.0
- Thread starter rswyan
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LD1
Epic Contributor
9 sec cycle aint bad. Refresh my memory...what size cylinder and pump?
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rswyan
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rswyan
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Yup ... I got really excited at the prospect of getting rid of my two tubes of crappy TSC black grease ... and went wild ...
Possibly ...
Well ... it's not just a splitter ... but also a Fatwood production machine ...
I'll probably limit any future greasings to the underside and edges of the beam ...
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rswyan
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On the engine stalling issue, it happens under two scenarios - and both have the system pressure shooting up to around 1500 psi:
1. Using the RD 5200 valve for the log lift, unless one is careful feathering it, it will kill the engine. I'm running 1/4 hoses to the log lift cylinder ... in order to keep the cylinder extension speed to something reasonable ... and trying to shove 13 gpm thru 1/4 hoses don't seem to be working too well. Probably help if I would get the log lift itself actually installed, so that the cylinder is actually pushing something.
2. Deadheading the main cylinder for the push block with the LS 3040 valve.
I'm thinking it's likely a combo deal with both of the pressure reliefs on the control valves (the reliefs are supposed to be set at 2250 and 2000 psi respectively) and the unloader valve on the pump that controls where the pump switches over to high pressure/low volume mode.
The engine itself now seems to be running better (full rpm) after a little run time (it sat for 10+ years)
1. Using the RD 5200 valve for the log lift, unless one is careful feathering it, it will kill the engine. I'm running 1/4 hoses to the log lift cylinder ... in order to keep the cylinder extension speed to something reasonable ... and trying to shove 13 gpm thru 1/4 hoses don't seem to be working too well. Probably help if I would get the log lift itself actually installed, so that the cylinder is actually pushing something.
2. Deadheading the main cylinder for the push block with the LS 3040 valve.
I'm thinking it's likely a combo deal with both of the pressure reliefs on the control valves (the reliefs are supposed to be set at 2250 and 2000 psi respectively) and the unloader valve on the pump that controls where the pump switches over to high pressure/low volume mode.
The engine itself now seems to be running better (full rpm) after a little run time (it sat for 10+ years)
mikehaugen
Elite Member
Definitely sounds like a pump issue. If you are only getting to 1500 psi, the reliefs wouldn't be opening anyway. And obviously 1500 psi on the high flow mode on the pump is too much for 6.5 hp.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I am really surprised you got that much speed with that combo.
Same cylinder but 22gpm pump and I am 7.5-8 sec. Is your time for a full 24" stroke? And you confident all the air is out?
Same cylinder but 22gpm pump and I am 7.5-8 sec. Is your time for a full 24" stroke? And you confident all the air is out?
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rswyan
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Right - good point.
Yup - about double too much.
I pulled the top bolt/cap next to the outlet on the pump last night - there was a spring sitting on top of ball there. Didn't really do anything with it ... just had a look.
There's a cap on the bottom side of the pump next to the inlet ... I think that's where the adjustment screw for the unloader is. I'll pull that tonight and see if I can tweak it down (out) to lower the point where it shifts in low volume/high pressure.
Got the gasket pulled on the valve cover and cleaned up both sides and replaced it with some black NAPA RTV Ultra. Also discovered that the pipe the muffler screws into was actually loose in the head ... so I'll need to handle that as well.
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rswyan
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Surprising isn't it ?
I'm probably at 11 seconds total cycle (owing to my lack of precision when hitting "Start" and "Stop" on my iPhone)
Yes.
No ... although the extension and retraction has been smooth (no jerks)
Last night I noticed that there were quite a lot of air bubbles in the fluid in the reservoir after cycling it a couple times.
I only had around 7 gallons of hydraulic fluid in the shop last night when I filled it ... so maybe there was some air getting sucked in as I initially cycled the cylinders. In hindsight, I really wish I had located the outlet and strainer for the reservoir on the bottom, rather than the side.
Today I grabbed another 1 to 1 1/2 gallons of fluid that came out of the tractor when the axle seal popped out, that I had down here in the garage at the house ... that took it up very near the top of the reservoir (probably within an inch) Will top it off a little further if need be.
Should know more here in a little bit ... hopefully the RTV on the valve cover is "dry enough" ...
oldtimer 66
Platinum Member
RSWYAN may I make a suggestion? On a couple of splitters, I have put grab hooks on the pusher so that a light chain can be used to pull off a stuck pc of wood. Just a thought. Later.
