Logsplitter Valve?

[49er]

Hi all,
I'm new but have been reading here for quite some time. I'm building a log splitter and have a question on the valves required. I want to control the main cylinder and the log lift. (and possibly the 4way wedge in the future) Can someone give specific part #'s or specs for the valves?

 

[49er]

More info;
8 hp engine
16 gpm pump
16 gal tank
4" x 21" stroke main cylinder
3" x 12 lift cylinder

 

[J_J]

Hi all,
I'm new but have been reading here for quite some time. I'm building a log splitter and have a question on the valves required. I want to control the main cylinder and the log lift. (and possibly the 4way wedge in the future) Can someone give specific part #'s or specs for the valves?

You will need one of these for the log splitting function, or if you want the double lever auto log splitting valve, like this.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009121313334331&item=9-7724&catname=hydraulic

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009121313334331&item=9-6587&catname=hydraulic

Here is a two lever valve for the wedge, and lift

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009121313334331&item=9-4782&catname=hydraulic

Install the joystick valve with PB, and then the log splitter valve.

If you don't like joystick valve, then a 2 lever valve like this.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009121313334331&item=9-7862&catname=hydraulic

or

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009121313334331&item=9-7692&catname=hydraulic

 

[J_J]

You really don't need a lift cyl that big, unless you already have one.

 

[Willl]

If he uses more than 1 valve, will his first one have to have a PB outlet to run the second valve ?

 

[49er]

Thanks for the quick reply.
Can I use a single valve for the lift and add another later for the wedge? Sorry if that is a dumb question, my background is in machining and sheet metal, still green and learning on hydraulics. Oh and the 3" cylinder had on hand and worked it into the design.

 

[49er]

Will i need some kind of flow reducing valve for the smaller cylinder?

 

[SPIKER]

Will i need some kind of flow reducing valve for the smaller cylinder?

You can put smaller work port hoses on there if you want to reduce the flow rate, there are other flow restricted device you can add, but the valves themselves are spool type which would only require moving the handle a small amount vs fully to move the cylinder slower. You can make the hoses/lines to the up/down wedge out of 1/4" to reduce the speed it moves. i would put the dual spool valve on there right from the get go, and cap the 2nd spool if you intend on installing it ever. remove the handle on the capped spool till needed.

Mark

 

[J_J]

If he uses more than 1 valve, will his first one have to have a PB outlet to run the second valve ?

I haven't seen a log splitter valve with PB, so you would have to plumb in the two lever valve with PB first, and follow that with the log splitter valve. I don't see this happening, but if the valve with PB is being used, the fluid will be interrupted for the time you are using the valve. If the first valve is not using all the flow, then the remainder of the fluid will pass by to the next valve. You would normally be lifting or splitting, or setting the wedge. Only one function at a time.

 

[J_J]

Will i need some kind of flow reducing valve for the smaller cylinder?

An adjustable hyd needle valve could be used to set or control the cyl speed.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009121313334331&item=9-4313-A&catname=hydraulic

 

[kennyd]

If he uses more than 1 valve, will his first one have to have a PB outlet to run the second valve ?

Since the functions would be mostly used one-at-time, just putting them in series without PB is perfectly fine.

 

[J_J]

Something to consider here is the relief settings, and that is, to have the first valve in line, with the highest setting, or all the relief settings the same. I believe the main reason that valves are not used in series without a PB port, is that the valves were not designed to have high back pressure on the return port. There are some articles out that suggest that was the reason that some return ports had split open or cracked. If you think about it, and you are using the last valve in the system, the complete circuit is at pump pressure. Therefore , you should make sure the relief setting on the last valve is always the lowest setting.

 

[49er]

Finally done!
Took awhile with a lot of planning and help.
A couple of guys and myself did all the welding @ work after hours.
Everything works as planned.
Thank you guy for all your feedback and ideas.

 

[frogfish]

Nice job, looks great!

 

[LanceH]

That is one heck of a good looking log splitter 49er! Congratulations. I have begun to gather the parts and start designing one of my own-so I have a few questions for you...

Did you add a plate on top of the beam for the push plate to ride on?

Could you explain or post some more pictures of the wedge setup? I'm wondering if the wedge is welded to the tube steel and how all that connects to the beam.

Working height/beam height and how you fab'd up your axle?

Again, great work. Any advice you could provide would be appreciated.

 

[bert2755]

49'er that is one of the best looking self made splitters I have seen!! Splitters get discussed a lot at hearth.com, and one comment that always comes back is not to use black pipe on hydraulics. It may work fine for a long time, but just is not rated for the pressure. If you split a seem in that pipe the fluid at 2500 psi will cut into your skin and cause major problems.

Change that stuff out and I think you have a winner!!

 

[kennyd]

49'er that is one of the best looking self made splitters I have seen!! Splitters get discussed a lot at hearth.com, and one comment that always comes back is not to use black pipe on hydraulics. It may work fine for a long time, but just is not rated for the pressure. If you split a seem in that pipe the fluid at 2500 psi will cut into your skin and cause major problems.




Change that stuff out and I think you have a winner!!

In general-you are 100% correct, But (there is always a but...) it looks like he only used them on the low pressure return side of the system, so it is acceptable.

 

[49er]

That is one heck of a good looking log splitter 49er! Congratulations. I have begun to gather the parts and start designing one of my own-so I have a few questions for you...

Did you add a plate on top of the beam for the push plate to ride on?

Could you explain or post some more pictures of the wedge setup? I'm wondering if the wedge is welded to the tube steel and how all that connects to the beam.

Working height/beam height and how you fab'd up your axle?

Again, great work. Any advice you could provide would be appreciated.

Posting from my phone, I'll get pics and more info later.
I did use a plate on top of I- beam. (3/4" x 8")
I'll get details on the wedge assembly and try to answer your other questions.
Good luck on your project.

 

[49er]

Correction, the top plate is 5/8" thick not 3/4".
I'll post some pics of the wedge assembly later.
The height to top plate is 31.5" It is a very comfortable working height for me @ 6' tall.
Alot of splitters I've used seemed too low.

 

[49er]

Pics show the 1" x 12" wedge welded to the top plate and the 4" square tubing which IS welded to two 1/2" gussets and the I-beam.

The pdf file is looking from underneath up through.
The I-beam is transparent so the gussets can be seen which tie the tubing into the I-beam. Hopefully I didn't make this too confusing.