Looking at used 1850's - its Charlie's fault!

[Bob999]

sounds logical but can you elaborate?

Unless the area you are mowing is very smooth large decks have a tendency to scalp. The larger the deck the greater the tendency to scalp. If you look at 5 and 6 foot decks on commercial quality mowers used by lawn services (Toro for example) you will see several anti scalp wheels on the mower deck. PT 6' decks--at least when I bought--have only one anti scalp wheel and it isn't particularly effective.

So--I found the 6' PT deck that I bought with my 1845 didn't give the cut quality I wanted. I purchased a Lasco articulated deck--basically 3 25" decks linked together with semi autonomous floatation for each. The result is very little scalping.

 

[MossRoad]

Unless the area you are mowing is very smooth large decks have a tendency to scalp. The larger the deck the greater the tendency to scalp. If you look at 5 and 6 foot decks on commercial quality mowers used by lawn services (Toro for example) you will see several anti scalp wheels on the mower deck. PT 6' decks--at least when I bought--have only one anti scalp wheel and it isn't particularly effective.

So--I found the 6' PT deck that I bought with my 1845 didn't give the cut quality I wanted. I purchased a Lasco articulated deck--basically 3 25" decks linked together with semi autonomous floatation for each. The result is very little scalping.

Heck, our 60" deck on the PT425 will scalp on relatively mild berms along our driveway. Look at it this way. The deck is 60" wide. I have my blades set up for a 3" high cut. If there is a 3.1" dome within a 60" area and I go over the center of it, I'm cutting dirt. Now widen that out to a 90" deck. If there is a 3.1" dome in a 90" area and I go over the center of it I'm cutting dirt. You are more likely to scalp with a larger solid deck than a smaller solid deck. The wider the deck, the more beneficial an articulating deck becomes apparent.

 

[wasabi]

Unless the area you are mowing is very smooth large decks have a tendency to scalp. The larger the deck the greater the tendency to scalp. If you look at 5 and 6 foot decks on commercial quality mowers used by lawn services (Toro for example) you will see several anti scalp wheels on the mower deck. PT 6' decks--at least when I bought--have only one anti scalp wheel and it isn't particularly effective.

So--I found the 6' PT deck that I bought with my 1845 didn't give the cut quality I wanted. I purchased a Lasco articulated deck--basically 3 25" decks linked together with semi autonomous floatation for each. The result is very little scalping.

Thx I get it now. I wondered how you got PT deck to articulate...but it is Lasco equip..

 

[wasabi]

The 1845 has enough power to handle the steepest hills I have the courage to mow.
Going straight up with the mower running must be done very slowly on the steepest parts, and it bogs if it is really steep and the grass heavy.
With single tires, it is a tossup whether I run out of power or traction first.
I've never had to abandon a job because of lack of power.

That being said, I'd prefer an 1850. Around my place, I'd probably find a lot of functions where the bigger machine would be clumsier, but I'd adapt. I drove to Tazewell to buy a 1430. Terry just stood and watched as I rationalized the step up to the 1845. Had I realized that it really was too big for my lawn and I needed to buy a separate lawnmower, I would probably still not have bought the 1850 because of the higher price. But for mowing pastures it certainly would be better. If my 1845 were beyond repair, I'd look for an 1850, particularly since my collection of attachments would fit.

Need a mower. Extra power might be nice, but not essential. Wider footprint too...I can live with more up and down if necessary to be safe. After a couple of first rough go's we'll mostly be facing orchard grass, weeds, fescue etc., not bush hogging. Cost's matter. Considering these comments, ones about 1850 having too much power for the arms and JJ's - "buy the power you need", I'm reconsidering possibility of single wheeled used 1845.

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

'sabi
One thing not mentioned much. Sedgewood and I have 2001 machines with the 72" rough-cut mower. Twice this year, I ordered new front tires from PT and they sent the size that is on the back of the mower. I finally talked it through with Terry, and he didn't remember the 72" rough-cut deck as having the big front casters that are on ours. Those wheels are apparently only used on the 90" deck now. The deck has two large casters in front and two rear anti-scalp wheels. I don't think they've made a 72" rough-cut like ours for some years. Mowing with that deck and draft control, I have next to no scalping on our pastures, cutting at about a 4" height. Certainly an articulated deck would be better for my lawn, but I got a 48" Exmark for that.
If you go for an 1845, I hope you find a rough-cut 72 with it. It has stump jumper hubs with short hinged blades, so is really three-wide brush hog. With the thinner high-lift blades that Sedgewood and I both put on, it does almost finish mower smoothness, but you can still drive into heavy brush and mulch it.

 

[wasabi]

'sabi
One thing not mentioned much. Sedgewood and I have 2001 machines with the 72" rough-cut mower. Twice this year, I ordered new front tires from PT and they sent the size that is on the back of the mower. I finally talked it through with Terry, and he didn't remember the 72" rough-cut deck as having the big front casters that are on ours. Those wheels are apparently only used on the 90" deck now. The deck has two large casters in front and two rear anti-scalp wheels. I don't think they've made a 72" rough-cut like ours for some years. Mowing with that deck and draft control, I have next to no scalping on our pastures, cutting at about a 4" height. Certainly an articulated deck would be better for my lawn, but I got a 48" Exmark for that.
If you go for an 1845, I hope you find a rough-cut 72 with it. It has stump jumper hubs with short hinged blades, so is really three-wide brush hog. With the thinner high-lift blades that Sedgewood and I both put on, it does almost finish mower smoothness, but you can still drive into heavy brush and mulch it.

I was just looking at some old threads on that...really like the blade innovations. My impression is the (older) PT finish decks are virtually the same as the rough cuts. Do you know if the spindles can handle conversion to rough cut blades and stump jumper hubs or is that another whole kettle of fish?

 

[woodlandfarms]

Need a mower. Extra power might be nice, but not essential. Wider footprint too...I can live with more up and down if necessary to be safe. After a couple of first rough go's we'll mostly be facing orchard grass, weeds, fescue etc., not bush hogging. Cost's matter. Considering these comments, ones about 1850 having too much power for the arms and JJ's - "buy the power you need", I'm reconsidering possibility of single wheeled used 1845.

To me a single wheeled 1845 is pretty close to a 1445. I know there are differences, but why get a single 1845 (Charlie?).

Also. my complaint about the 1850 being too much for the front end... No one else that owns 1850's has had the same complaint.

I don't think you can miss with either. I bought mine used along with ksimolo. We both love our machines.

Carl

 

[wasabi]

To me a single wheeled 1845 is pretty close to a 1445. I know there are differences, but why get a single 1845 (Charlie?).

Also. my complaint about the 1850 being too much for the front end... No one else that owns 1850's has had the same complaint.

I don't think you can miss with either. I bought mine used along with ksimolo. We both love our machines.

Carl

ya, i agree. 45 hp or better is essential. Otherwise i'd go back to looking at 1430. 1850 or 1845, dualies or not is what i want. I like the brakes and tilt seat feature. Traction (and ability to use dualies) seems a combined function of wheel diameter and motor specs. May upgrade if the unit I find is not up to par. As for extra lifting power, i have it with the 2445.

 

[wasabi]

To me a single wheeled 1845 is pretty close to a 1445. I know there are differences, but why get a single 1845 (Charlie?).

Carl,

I like the 1445 too. don't know for sure but guess perhaps the older pt '45s were single before dualies were offered? At any rate some of the older '45 machines have smaller wheel motors that won't support dualies. They seem to come on the market for less $ and I'm not averse to upgrading motors and/or wheels if needed. at any rate, i've got the PT bug again and sometime between now and next spring, i'm looking to find, acquire and upgrade a used pt to a meaner, cleaner pasture mowin machine...

I'd upgrade wheel motors and put dualies on the 2445 but don't like the center of gravity being so high

 

[Bob999]

The 1445 (or perhaps the 1460) with the optional turf tires would seem to be an option if you don't need to work cross slopes of more that 30 degrees (I think both of these machines will work 30 degree slopes--that would have to be confirmed with PT). They are less expensive than the 1800 series tractors and the absence of the slope tender doesn't seem as important because of the integral brakes that operate in much the same way as the slope tender when hydraulic power is lost.

However, if you consistently work steep cross slopes I think you would miss the tilting seat that the 1800 series has.