Looking at used 1850's - its Charlie's fault!

[SpringHollow]

Don't forget, the 1850 can be run with singles or duals. Because my bucket is the same width as my duals, when running down the drainage ditch to clean it out, i keep rubbing the tires against the dirt as i try to widen my cut. So i ran it with singles and was pleasantly surprised to find that with the bucket loaded with as much weight as it could take, i could still climb out of the ditch at a 20 degree angle in both directions without tipping over.

I personally would buy an 1850 over an 1845. I just could use more than 1200 lb lift capacity - almost exceeded that today - had to connect closer in on my lifting boom.

Ken

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

To me a single wheeled 1845 is pretty close to a 1445. I know there are differences, but why get a single 1845 (Charlie?).
Carl

I dunno.
The single wheel version is what I test drove. My impression was that the dual wheels would only be really useful in cross-mowing at the traction limit, and even then it had to be smooth enough for both wheels to be solidly on the ground. I wanted to be able to mow close to fences, and could only do that with the 72" deck with single wheels. (Anyone offset the mowers to get out past the duals?) The singles also have a little more ground clearance which I need since some trail maintenance is pretty rough.
I only mow two or three places where the duals would help, where I now may mow across with all four sliding and crabbing at maybe 15 degree angle. It does that more comfortably than the description sounds.

 

[SpringHollow]

Another advantage of the duals is that it cuts the ground impact of the tractor in half - extremely important where i live. Most of the time, i need duals to go down my trails because the clay is so soft. And i can drive the heavy tractor on my lawn without ruining it as well.

Ken

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

Another advantage of the duals is that it cuts the ground impact of the tractor in half - extremely important where i live. Most of the time, i need duals to go down my trails because the clay is so soft. And i can drive the heavy tractor on my lawn without ruining it as well.

Ken

I only rarely work in soft stuff. I've gottn mine stuck in the mud and been able to work its way out except twice when it was up against fence/tree when I had to tow assist. I wouldn't have been stuck w/ duals.
Re the 1445 - I'd like its lift capacity, but it is higher cg and probably capable on slopes but not as comfortable. The 1845 and 1850 are low cg.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So what about taking the leap of faith and making your 2445 a dualie? This is not meant to bring up the issue of structural integrity or motor life, both could be handled with maybe a 3 to 5K investment.

It is more to dodge the 18 to 30K investment for an 1850. I guess you would not have the braking system, but you could if you went to the 5K upgrade price and bought new wheel motors...

Food for thought, although this one may taste bad...

 

[wasabi]

The 1445 (or perhaps the 1460) ....the absence of the slope tender doesn't seem as important because of the integral brakes that operate in much the same way as the slope tender when hydraulic power is lost.

I had an experience last year while working in the orchard. I was headed down the steep side trail when a hyd hose blew and suddenly I was riding 5,000 pounds of freewheeling PT downhill gaining speed fast. Fortunately I was able to turn into the woods without flipping it or hitting anything. The slope tender may work fine when all hydraulics are intact, and I trust my instincts and reactions but a backup system would be prudent.

 

[wasabi]

So what about taking the leap of faith and making your 2445 a dualie? This is not meant to bring up the issue of structural integrity or motor life, both could be handled with maybe a 3 to 5K investment.

It is more to dodge the 18 to 30K investment for an 1850. I guess you would not have the braking system, but you could if you went to the 5K upgrade price and bought new wheel motors...

Food for thought, although this one may taste bad...

I've thought about it and done some research. My gut reaction is the cog would work out with dualies, but the 18 series makes more sense for mowing. (perhaps the lurking urge to have a fleet is a factor... )

I also think I might be pushing the 45 hp diesle a bit....i suspect the 2445 is already heavier than the 1845. Adding dualies may increase stabitlity and upgrading wheels may increase tourque, but the power is what it is...

 

[Bob999]

I had an experience last year while working in the orchard. I was headed down the steep side trail when a hyd hose blew and suddenly I was riding 5,000 pounds of freewheeling PT downhill gaining speed fast. Fortunately I was able to turn into the woods without flipping it or hitting anything. The slope tender may work fine when all hydraulics are intact, and I trust my instincts and reactions but a backup system would be prudent.

Wasabi--The brake tender on the 1800 series automatically applies brakes when hydraulic power is lost--hence the safety factor. The way it works is hydraulic power is used to release the spring applied brakes--remove the hydraulic power and the brakes are applied. The brake tender provides a manual way to apply hydraulic pressure to the brake circuit so if you have a tractor problem you can release the brakes and tow the unit.

MY UNDERSTANDING of the 1445/60 brake system is that it operates in the same fashion as the 1800 series in the event of loss of hydraulic pressure. The differences with the 1800 system are that: 1. the spring applied brakes are integral to the wheel motor; and 2. There is no brake tender to manually release the brakes--you must have hydraulic power to release the brakes.

 

[J_J]

1445/2445 /1460 Wet Disc Brakes- Spring Applied Hydraulic Release.

 

[J_J]

I had an experience last year while working in the orchard. I was headed down the steep side trail when a hyd hose blew and suddenly I was riding 5,000 pounds of freewheeling PT downhill gaining speed fast. Fortunately I was able to turn into the woods without flipping it or hitting anything. The slope tender may work fine when all hydraulics are intact, and I trust my instincts and reactions but a backup system would be prudent.

I had a similar experience on my 1445, when a wheel motor hose blew, rolling backward. If I would have been thinking and not in a panic mode, I could have lowered the bucket for some extra drag. Fortunately, a tree stopped my travel before I was about to go into a large stream.

I do see the need for a shotgun shell powered spike that would be shot into the ground with steel cable to stop the machine in a run-a way situation.

Another way would be to put a electric hyd shut off valve on some or all of the hyd motors, to put them into hyd lock.