No hay here this weekend......T-storms in the forecast.
Next week no rain with highs around 102.....I'm sure the mowers will be running all over on tuesday.
Looking for a good older square baler
- Thread starter foreman Etexas
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No hay here this weekend......T-storms in the forecast.
Next week no rain with highs around 102.....I'm sure the mowers will be running all over on tuesday.
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I have a 4 day window, Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday and my personal weatherman (my wife) says cut it. All my customers go by my wife's weather predictions.
The guy down the road took down about 70 acres earlier this week and now it's pismuckle brown.
My problem is I have to keep an eye on my rotary rake. Its very popular with my neighbors.
The guy down the road took down about 70 acres earlier this week and now it's pismuckle brown.
My problem is I have to keep an eye on my rotary rake. Its very popular with my neighbors.
My suggestion is to buy a high output solid machine like a John Deere 468. Read the manual and learn how knotters work. How to totally clean and rebuild them. By getting a newer and older machine you can invest your time wisely into understanding it like no other. But by making it a bit of a modern machine you can have parts and your expertise will make a difference longer.
I had an IH 37 that never had a problem and lasted for years until the reel froze up...I might still rebuild it. But my 468 runs circles around it.
Yes there are a lot of people doing round bales, which is exactly why I make small bales. I always sell out. Horse people really like well made small bales.
Best of luck, but don't be too cheap. Keep your bales at around 55-65 lbs...the female horse people love them.
NH machines take more HP.
I had an IH 37 that never had a problem and lasted for years until the reel froze up...I might still rebuild it. But my 468 runs circles around it.
Yes there are a lot of people doing round bales, which is exactly why I make small bales. I always sell out. Horse people really like well made small bales.
Best of luck, but don't be too cheap. Keep your bales at around 55-65 lbs...the female horse people love them.
NH machines take more HP.
ModMech
Platinum Member
We keep our eyes PEELED on CL (Dallas and ETex) for "baler"s, there were a number of GOOD deals last year on clean fully-functioning equipment, I mean 9' sickle, side rake and baler in working order, owner will demonstrate, for under $4000. This year, about 2/3 of that price will get you the same thing!
I have seen decent roundbalers (Hesston and Vermeer) selling for under $1000, sickles for under $500 and rakes as little as $400 to $900 (clean field-ready with good tires). There have even been a number of NH and JD square balers for under $1k that appeared to be worthy of the 2 hour drive needed to view them.
Unfortunately for us, except for our JD #39 sickle, I have not had the $$$$ at the same time the equipment was for sale
I have seen decent roundbalers (Hesston and Vermeer) selling for under $1000, sickles for under $500 and rakes as little as $400 to $900 (clean field-ready with good tires). There have even been a number of NH and JD square balers for under $1k that appeared to be worthy of the 2 hour drive needed to view them.
Unfortunately for us, except for our JD #39 sickle, I have not had the $$$$ at the same time the equipment was for sale
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OP
foreman Etexas
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Well I have pictures on the wifes phone(suppost to be this bad ***** touch screen) and she cant get them to send to my email!!!Should have stuck to my cheap outdated phone atleast it would have worked...Maybe we can get it lined out!!!
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My company phone has a camera as well and it ain't worth squat. They tried to give me a Blackberry but I don't text. My digits are too old and stiff for such nonsense.
OP
foreman Etexas
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ModMech
Platinum Member
If that is the $3500 unit, I would keep looking.
You can get cleaner round balers that are more desirable for that price. If it in mechanically excellant condition, with all manuals (OP and Maint/parts) then I might go a little over $2k on it especially if he's willing to demonstrate.
You can get cleaner round balers that are more desirable for that price. If it in mechanically excellant condition, with all manuals (OP and Maint/parts) then I might go a little over $2k on it especially if he's willing to demonstrate.
OP
foreman Etexas
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Yeah thats asking price!!!But thats why im here
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I looked at the pictures in detail. It's amazing how little changes on NH bailers. Even my ancient Hayliner 66 has the same gearbox and flywheel as my 575
NH fades to a nice brown patina.....:laughing:
I'd lift the knotter shroud, release the knotters, swing them up and see how sloppy the wiper arms are, the condition of the twine knives and the billhooks.
There is an absence of grease around the knotters. That worries me.
There is crud in the bale case but the knotters are clean. That makes no sense unless they were pressure washed and without an immediate re-grease (and again, no visible grease), a big no-no on a machine that's sitting.
Run the plunger out (rotate the flywheel by hand) to the farthest point (with the connecting rod pivot against the front sheet metal) and reach in and grab the backend of the plunger (you can get a hold of it with the cross shaft that the connecting rod is attached to) and move it up and down and back and forth. It it has a lot of movement, especially up and down offer him/her less. it's adjustable but a PITA and is indicative of a heavy use machine. while in there, check the connecting rod at tke crank end to see if there is excessive play. Some grease, some are sealed bearings.
Run the plunger back in and check the knives. Are they knicked or split. If so, they are replaceable agiain but a PITA. offer less.
Finally, check the drive chains. Are they out of adjustment on the take up idlers? Are they dry and/or rusty? If so, offer less. Replaceable but again, a PITA.
Finally, check the over running clutch on the front of the flywheel and make sure the pawls ratchet correctly. It's important that the over running clutch ratchets properly and make sure there is some lining left on the clutch discs.
Finally, the release arm is in the tripped position so you can cycle the unit by hand to make sure it's in time, the needles are in correct time and the needle latch operates properly...(that's the crank and wire rope on the left side, below the counter).
They don't have to be pretty to run well but they do need grease and I don't see any.
NH fades to a nice brown patina.....:laughing:
I'd lift the knotter shroud, release the knotters, swing them up and see how sloppy the wiper arms are, the condition of the twine knives and the billhooks.
There is an absence of grease around the knotters. That worries me.
There is crud in the bale case but the knotters are clean. That makes no sense unless they were pressure washed and without an immediate re-grease (and again, no visible grease), a big no-no on a machine that's sitting.
Run the plunger out (rotate the flywheel by hand) to the farthest point (with the connecting rod pivot against the front sheet metal) and reach in and grab the backend of the plunger (you can get a hold of it with the cross shaft that the connecting rod is attached to) and move it up and down and back and forth. It it has a lot of movement, especially up and down offer him/her less. it's adjustable but a PITA and is indicative of a heavy use machine. while in there, check the connecting rod at tke crank end to see if there is excessive play. Some grease, some are sealed bearings.
Run the plunger back in and check the knives. Are they knicked or split. If so, they are replaceable agiain but a PITA. offer less.
Finally, check the drive chains. Are they out of adjustment on the take up idlers? Are they dry and/or rusty? If so, offer less. Replaceable but again, a PITA.
Finally, check the over running clutch on the front of the flywheel and make sure the pawls ratchet correctly. It's important that the over running clutch ratchets properly and make sure there is some lining left on the clutch discs.
Finally, the release arm is in the tripped position so you can cycle the unit by hand to make sure it's in time, the needles are in correct time and the needle latch operates properly...(that's the crank and wire rope on the left side, below the counter).
They don't have to be pretty to run well but they do need grease and I don't see any.