Looking for a good older square baler

[foreman Etexas]

Knotters new was put on and Baler was never used after installed!!

 

[5030]

Knotters new was put on and Baler was never used after installed!!

Still need to see grease. If new, then why are the tension nuts screwed down so far? Recommended setting is 3 threads showing at the top of the acorn nut and no more and the twine discs don't look new. In fact, I see it running sisal or was running sisal.

It might be worth 3500 in your location, I don't know. I'd want the bailer hooked to a tractor (don't forget to swing it out) and cycle the knotters. See if the discs pick up the twine, the knotter brake functions correctly and the knotter stack is properly aligned and has no side play.

The actuator arm is already in the right position, just a matter off hooking it up and cycling it.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Still need to see grease. If new, then why are the tension nuts screwed down so far? Recommended setting is 3 threads showing at the top of the acorn nut and no more and the twine discs don't look new. In fact, I see it running sisal or was running sisal.

It might be worth 3500 in your location, I don't know. I'd want the bailer hooked to a tractor (don't forget to swing it out) and cycle the knotters. See if the discs pick up the twine, the knotter brake functions correctly and the knotter stack is properly aligned and has no side play.

The actuator arm is already in the right position, just a matter off hooking it up and cycling it.

Just going off what I was told about the knotters. Ill try and get it and try it out. I have a lease place about 5 miles from there,just dont have any grass to try it on!!!

 

[5030]

You can try it with nothing in the bale chamber. Just trip the knotters under power. Pull back and upward on the actuator arm until it clears the rack. That will actuate the knotters and you can do it at an idle (on the PTO).

It has to be twined first. I'd suggest 170 poly, out of the twine box, under the tension plate (plate needs to be 2-3 pounds pull) into the yoke eye, under the knotter frame, up through the knotter eyes (don't cross 'em) and through the needle eyes. Tie the end (of each) to the lower balecase stiffener. It should thread the twine discs. if it don't run like heck. I can fix 'em, but I'm here, not there.

 

[ModMech]

Cleaner and newer JD 346 for $100 LESS....

John Deere 346 Square Baler

 

[foreman Etexas]

Cleaner and newer JD 346 for $100 LESS....

John Deere 346 Square Baler

Hey,Thanks! But doesnt have any pics!! I will call,I did see(Barn Kept)

 

[ModMech]

There are a number square balers on CL right now ranging from as little as $700 to $4500 for a refurbed unit.

Dallas and East Tx are the places to look, just enter "baler" into the search box and get a drool rag

 

[5030]

Just keep in mind...and that means anyone in the market for a small square bailer or even a large square bailer.... That 'ready to bale' means nothing, or at least very little.

Any machine, unless the crank is broken, will bale. Tying is a whole different animal.

Any baler will, unless the crank is broken, will bale, push an untied bale through the bale case and have it fall on the ground.

I've had that happen more than once and will probably happen again. Nothing better to ruin an afternoon when I look in the mirror and I see what 'should' be a tied, tight bale, peel off the quarter turn and spread out in the field like a dead dog.:laughing:

The proof is always the tie. Never forget it.

 

[ModMech]

^ Jolly good point

To be frank, we've got a batter chance of being able to bale a dead dog than hay anyway...... too dry for even irrigated lawns here

 

[Cossack1917]

John Deere 14T Baler with parts baler

Saw this today on Craigslist. Little far from Texas, but someone else might be interested.