kenmac
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 9,835
- Location
- The Heart of Dixie
- Tractor
- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
that engine should spin over with the de compression lever pulled.
Looking for A New Starter for 336D.
- Thread starter Rameck
- Start date
- Views: 10345
OP
Rameck
Bronze Member
Thanks, for all the suggestions. Can't get to it until Sat. I usually work the swing shift but since day shift guys at work are taking the last two weeks off, I have to move to days these next two weeks. Yes, I was using jumper cables. I will use the battery connections this weekend. I haven't touch the decompression lever. So, if I use it then there should be no resistence or less when cranking? If no compression it won't start, correct? But this shold allow the engine to turn over a couple of revolutions, yes? Didn't mention what the starter came off of. He just looked at what I had in my hand and said it'd be between $150 to $200, which means at least $200.
When you pull the compression release it holds the exhaust valves from completely closing. This allows the engine to roll freely without building up compression. It allows flywheel momemtum plus oil pressure build up. Much easier on the starter to get it turning. I would guess I turn my 2002d over 2 to 4 seconds with the compression release pulled, the oil light goes out in that period of time, she will crank right up when I push the realease in. Hooked up battery cables will make a big difference.
Roonabeck
Silver Member
If the voltage is only dropping to 11.6 when the starter is engaged, you should definitely be checking the ground connection. A starter that is trying to turn the engine will pull the voltage down a lot closer to zero.
OP
Rameck
Bronze Member
Have an ending! Thanks for all the help and suggestions. The following are the suggested problems from here and other people I have talked too:
1. Bad ground or contacts.
2. Bad battery.
3. Bad starter or starter solenoid.
4. Jumper cables not good test, because of inefficient connections.
Choose one or any of the above.
Will all of the above except bad starter, which is not the problem. The starter is OK.
I cleaned the cable connectors on the pos and neg posts and the wires going to the starter and the ground connection to the tractor. I cleaned the fuse contacts as they seemed to be oxidized. I replaced the battery from one I just bought for my motor home rated at 700 cold cranking amps. Checked the safety switches and continuity through them. One of the safety switches seem to be a little touchy, the handle activating it, has to be right on to make it work. (Bypassed the safety switches in initial testing). Did not try or test decompression mode. Turned switch on and it turns over like it should. I turned it on for several seconds with out giving it any fuel, so I could see the cranking power. It was fine, no hesitaion. Once I gave is fuel it starts right up.
Since, I already paid for the other starter which is a reduction starter and weighs about half the weight of the original, I thought, I'd try it out.
It turns the engine just as good as the original but has one big problem. When tightening the nut on the starter positive post where the positive lead from the battery connects too, it stripped the brass threads. Soft brass from China. You can't tighten these like you use to. What threads where left, was not enough to tighten the battery lead and the lead going to the alternator (both on same post), so washer and lock washer provided had to be left off and was able to get enough thread to tighten that way. So the $89 starter looks like a good replacement except for the soft thread brass post. I am starting a 24' x 24' garage and hope to use tractor for work on it. Again, thanks, for all your suggestions. Have a Happy New Year!
Ralph
1. Bad ground or contacts.
2. Bad battery.
3. Bad starter or starter solenoid.
4. Jumper cables not good test, because of inefficient connections.
Choose one or any of the above.
Will all of the above except bad starter, which is not the problem. The starter is OK.
I cleaned the cable connectors on the pos and neg posts and the wires going to the starter and the ground connection to the tractor. I cleaned the fuse contacts as they seemed to be oxidized. I replaced the battery from one I just bought for my motor home rated at 700 cold cranking amps. Checked the safety switches and continuity through them. One of the safety switches seem to be a little touchy, the handle activating it, has to be right on to make it work. (Bypassed the safety switches in initial testing). Did not try or test decompression mode. Turned switch on and it turns over like it should. I turned it on for several seconds with out giving it any fuel, so I could see the cranking power. It was fine, no hesitaion. Once I gave is fuel it starts right up.
Since, I already paid for the other starter which is a reduction starter and weighs about half the weight of the original, I thought, I'd try it out.
It turns the engine just as good as the original but has one big problem. When tightening the nut on the starter positive post where the positive lead from the battery connects too, it stripped the brass threads. Soft brass from China. You can't tighten these like you use to. What threads where left, was not enough to tighten the battery lead and the lead going to the alternator (both on same post), so washer and lock washer provided had to be left off and was able to get enough thread to tighten that way. So the $89 starter looks like a good replacement except for the soft thread brass post. I am starting a 24' x 24' garage and hope to use tractor for work on it. Again, thanks, for all your suggestions. Have a Happy New Year!
Ralph
