Looking for a pre-fab hydraulic top link

IslandTractor · Jun 8, 2006

I have a naive question. How does one decide what size/length hydraulic top link to buy for your tractor. Is this something where you can predict the right size given the tractor model or do you need to measure some thing? I could measure the top link but obviously that is adjustable. What dimension is the critical one to know?

By the way I have a Kioti CK20 and already have a set of rear remotes so I presume all I need is the cylinder setup and a new set of QC hoses. Is that right?

IslandTractor · Jun 8, 2006

I have a naive question. How does one decide what size/length hydraulic top link to buy for your tractor. Is this something where you can predict the right size given the tractor model or do you need to measure some thing? I could measure the top link but obviously that is adjustable. What dimension is the critical one to know?

By the way I have a Kioti CK20 and already have a set of rear remotes so I presume all I need is the cylinder setup and a new set of QC hoses. Is that right?

sweettractors · Jun 8, 2006

What dimension is the critical one to know? 

Closed length center to center is the most important. check all your implements that you use and make sure that the closed length will work on all--Ken Sweet

sweettractors · Jun 8, 2006

What dimension is the critical one to know? 

Closed length center to center is the most important. check all your implements that you use and make sure that the closed length will work on all--Ken Sweet

JerryG · Jun 8, 2006

Ken,
Is the rod on yours out of the cylinder enough to allow shorting it?

JerryG · Jun 8, 2006

Ken,
Is the rod on yours out of the cylinder enough to allow shorting it?

IslandTractor · Jun 8, 2006

Closed length center to center is the most important 

Understood. Now, assume I had a 20" center to center measurement (I made that up), what size top link hydraulic cylinder do I buy? Is it the overall length or the calculated stroke range or both that determines the correct size?

thanks

IslandTractor · Jun 8, 2006

Closed length center to center is the most important 

Understood. Now, assume I had a 20" center to center measurement (I made that up), what size top link hydraulic cylinder do I buy? Is it the overall length or the calculated stroke range or both that determines the correct size?

thanks

Henro · Jun 8, 2006

The only issue/problem is that those other USA suppliers do not supply cylinders with double pilot operated check valves. If you don't care about the inevitable cylinder leakdown then I suppose it doesn't matter. 

Well yes...and no...as MadRef will probably agree...

A contol valve with Pilot Operated check valves built in will perform about as well as a normal control valve hooked to a cylinder with a PO check valve mounted on it. The ONLY practical difference being if a hose blows, the check valve at the cylinder is superior.

This is of little help though to someone who already has a control valve installed on his tractor waiting to power a cylinder.

I only mention this to aid someone who might be putting a T&T system on their tractor themselves, and whom would therefore hove the opportunity to choose all the components themselves, like many of us do (to save money or for whatever other reason).

Myself, I had to fabricate my own top cylinder, as I needed something that was shorter than CCM had available. Had the CCM cylinder been shorter I would likely have gone that route. So I went with a Prince control valve that had PO check valves built in, and a cylinder that was standard without check valves mounted on it.

My only point here is to point out to those that may not know, that there are other options out there that will work, in most cases, as well as the cylinders that CCM are offering, which have the PO check valves built in. For maximum safety, the check valve at the cylinder is best. But we are not running a man lift, so that issue is probably a moot point.

Henro · Jun 8, 2006

The only issue/problem is that those other USA suppliers do not supply cylinders with double pilot operated check valves. If you don't care about the inevitable cylinder leakdown then I suppose it doesn't matter. 

Well yes...and no...as MadRef will probably agree...

A contol valve with Pilot Operated check valves built in will perform about as well as a normal control valve hooked to a cylinder with a PO check valve mounted on it. The ONLY practical difference being if a hose blows, the check valve at the cylinder is superior.

This is of little help though to someone who already has a control valve installed on his tractor waiting to power a cylinder.

I only mention this to aid someone who might be putting a T&T system on their tractor themselves, and whom would therefore hove the opportunity to choose all the components themselves, like many of us do (to save money or for whatever other reason).

Myself, I had to fabricate my own top cylinder, as I needed something that was shorter than CCM had available. Had the CCM cylinder been shorter I would likely have gone that route. So I went with a Prince control valve that had PO check valves built in, and a cylinder that was standard without check valves mounted on it.

My only point here is to point out to those that may not know, that there are other options out there that will work, in most cases, as well as the cylinders that CCM are offering, which have the PO check valves built in. For maximum safety, the check valve at the cylinder is best. But we are not running a man lift, so that issue is probably a moot point.