Looking for advice

[KU Gator]

I have a B2920 which we bought to maintain the 12 acres we purchased about 1.5 years ago. I mow about 6 or 7 acres now. It takes me about 4 hours to do it. I initially bought it with the FEL & MMM. Some of it had not been mowed in at least a year, so we added the rough cut mower. The manual suggested 48", but the dealer said he was confident the 60" would do fine. He had a light duty and medium duty Bush Hog brand mower in stock. I tried both of them on my tractor in his lot and ended up buying the medium duty. It seems to do fine. Now that I am keeping it mowed on a regular basis, typically every other week and have gotten the rocks picked up, I mow it with the MMM. As we continue to eliminate brush, I will use the rotary mower for that though, so for my situation, still worth having around for me. If yours is mostly grass and weeds that get out of control, you could look at renting a rough cut mower or having it cut by someone with one, and then after that mowing it with the MMM. I find it a lot easier to use and keep at the height I want and easier to get around trees.

As far as size goes, if I was only maintaining the 3 acres we live on, the B2920 would be a bit of overkill. I most of the time use the JD garden tractor I have for mowing it. But with the MMM, the B does a reasonable job on the yard if I want to use it. You just have to be careful on the tight turns with the industrial tires and they tend to tear up the grass if the ground is very moist. My wife drives it fine and likes to operate it (which will leave me doing the crap work).

As I mentioned in a previous post, if you try out the B3200, I would make sure you get the engine up to near the PTO speed to check out the vibration. That was not the only reason we did not choose the B7800 with I think the same engine, but it was a factor in our decision.

 

[kcook]

I have a B2920 which we bought to maintain the 12 acres we purchased about 1.5 years ago. I mow about 6 or 7 acres now. It takes me about 4 hours to do it. I initially bought it with the FEL & MMM. Some of it had not been mowed in at least a year, so we added the rough cut mower. The manual suggested 48", but the dealer said he was confident the 60" would do fine. He had a light duty and medium duty Bush Hog brand mower in stock. I tried both of them on my tractor in his lot and ended up buying the medium duty. It seems to do fine. Now that I am keeping it mowed on a regular basis, typically every other week and have gotten the rocks picked up, I mow it with the MMM. As we continue to eliminate brush, I will use the rotary mower for that though, so for my situation, still worth having around for me. If yours is mostly grass and weeds that get out of control, you could look at renting a rough cut mower or having it cut by someone with one, and then after that mowing it with the MMM. I find it a lot easier to use and keep at the height I want and easier to get around trees.

As far as size goes, if I was only maintaining the 3 acres we live on, the B2920 would be a bit of overkill. I most of the time use the JD garden tractor I have for mowing it. But with the MMM, the B does a reasonable job on the yard if I want to use it. You just have to be careful on the tight turns with the industrial tires and they tend to tear up the grass if the ground is very moist. My wife drives it fine and likes to operate it (which will leave me doing the crap work).

As I mentioned in a previous post, if you try out the B3200, I would make sure you get the engine up to near the PTO speed to check out the vibration. That was not the only reason we did not choose the B7800 with I think the same engine, but it was a factor in our decision.

Im sorry I have not been clear. At this point there is no plan on getting a MMM or RMM just a brush hog. Both my local dealer have said Brush hog size based on what the manufacture recommends. I will now with my lawn tractor which might be around a acker or so.

I will check the B3200 for the noise, thanks!!!

 

[KU Gator]

Actually you were clear, and it is obviously your decision. My point was only, the MMM is pretty good and if you are not literally cutting brush, it can cut some pretty high grass without missing a beat and is a lot easier to use.

The issue with the B3200 is not noise, it is vibration. You may find it to be acceptable and of no concern, but better to know before the purchase, than not know and be upset later. If I didn't get this attached correctly, go to the Kubota operating section and look at the B3200 HST pedal vibration thread.

B3200 HST Pedal Vibration? - Page 2 - TractorByNet.com

When I initially tried out the Kubotas, I found the reversing pedal that you operate with your heel weird, but you adjust to that pretty quick. Now when I get back on the JD garden tractor I don't like the side by side pedals.

Good luck on your decision.

 

[kcook]

Actually you were clear, and it is obviously your decision. My point was only, the MMM is pretty good and if you are not literally cutting brush, it can cut some pretty high grass without missing a beat and is a lot easier to use.

The issue with the B3200 is not noise, it is vibration. You may find it to be acceptable and of no concern, but better to know before the purchase, than not know and be upset later. If I didn't get this attached correctly, go to the Kubota operating section and look at the B3200 HST pedal vibration thread.

B3200 HST Pedal Vibration? - Page 2 - TractorByNet.com

When I initially tried out the Kubotas, I found the reversing pedal that you operate with your heel weird, but you adjust to that pretty quick. Now when I get back on the JD garden tractor I don't like the side by side pedals.

Good luck on your decision.

Cool, would I be wrong in saying a RC/brush hog is cheaper then MMM?

KC

 

[kcook]

Rear tires would not have gone over a section of grass/bruch with a MMM as compaired to a Brush Hog.

I have said brush hog due to that is what we have done to this point and it did a great job with no damage to that unit.

KC

 

[KU Gator]

With regard to cost, yes, the rough cut mower would be some cheaper. I don't remember what I paid for mine, but with the slip clutch, it was still cheaper. Also, there is more choice in rough cut mowers. You can get TSC level for quite a bit less than Woods, Land Pride or Bush Hog. I went with Bush Hog, because I wanted to get something I had more confidence in it holding up than some of the lighter duty, but others have said they had good results with King Kutter. Similarly with RFM you can get different brands and levels, but I don't know much about them. I like the MMM because I can go around trees and all like it is a garden tractor and easier to get in and out of areas. Plus, set it at the height you want and go.

I don't understand your other post and questions about the tires and driving over it.

 

[kcook]

With a MMM only one set of tire would drive over the grass before the Deck cuts it. Anything on the rear would have both front and back tires drive over that same area before the deck cuts it unless I was going backwards.

 

[MossRoad]

I don't want to use a MMM for most of my cutting, around the house I will use a lawn tractor that does a good job and its paid for.

Loader work, all gravel, stone, and dirt work. No mulch but snow to move in the winter.

KC

I understand about the lawn around the house. You mentioned brush hogging some fields, though, and that is what I was referring to. Brush hogging is a crummy job. It is slow and tedious and when you are done there are usually some windrows left and it looks like, well, a field! You indicated you want to brush hog more often than most of us would do it and that indicates you want more of a finished look. As someone else mentioned, once a field is cleared of brush and debris, a finish mower can be used on it without damaging it. That's why I threw out the suggestion.

 

[MossRoad]

With a MMM only one set of tire would drive over the grass before the Deck cuts it. Anything on the rear would have both front and back tires drive over that same area before the deck cuts it unless I was going backwards.

Ha! You need a Power Trac. The mower is out front. It cuts everything before you drive any of the tractor tires over it.

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[kcook]

I understand about the lawn around the house. You mentioned brush hogging some fields, though, and that is what I was referring to. Brush hogging is a crummy job. It is slow and tedious and when you are done there are usually some windrows left and it looks like, well, a field! You indicated you want to brush hog more often than most of us would do it and that indicates you want more of a finished look. As someone else mentioned, once a field is cleared of brush and debris, a finish mower can be used on it without damaging it. That's why I threw out the suggestion.

Im not doing a good job of asking and tell what I was going to do I don't care about the finished look. My wife want to be able to have our small dogs to go around large section of our land with out a collar. I didn't want to spend all day on a tractor with a finished mower. I used to spend hours with my dads Garden tractor cutting our 3.5 acker lawn. She doesn't think it needs to be finished cut, but cut down enough for our small dogs to walk/run around with her keeping an eye on them.

 

[KU Gator]

That is correct, that only the front tires would go across it before cutting it with a MMM. I just don't understand the issue. It would seem that no wheels going across it would be best from an aspect of getting the best cut.

The rotary rough cut mower is kind a brute force method. There are just a couple of blades going around at very high RPM. The blades are very thick and heavy. The quality of the cut is generally ok for a field. They can go over about anything up to small brush and saplings without much damage to the unit. Keep everyone out of the way as they can through material a long way. I find the disadvantage is they stick out way behind the tractor, so tougher to mow around stuff and at least with the 1/4" valve system on my and I the B3200, as you mow with it, it has a tendancy to sag down in the front and you have to bring the front of the mower up. ChuckinNH has sent me an adjust he says helps with this, but I have not had a chance to try it. If you are only going to mow it a couple of times per year or if you have areas that are rough and you will need to clear such as brushy areas, the rough cut mower is the tool. But on my property, I have used mine once this year and I used it because we had a wet spring and I didn't mow until it was up pretty high. Using it, I don't worry if I run over a branch that fell during the winter and is under the grass.

 

[KU Gator]

With regard to time spent, I can cut it faster with the MMM than the rough cut mower assuming the same width mower. It is just a lot easier to control the MMM so can just go with it and no adjustments. It just boils down to what it out there to run over.

 

[kcook]

That is correct, that only the front tires would go across it before cutting it with a MMM. I just don't understand the issue. It would seem that no wheels going across it would be best from an aspect of getting the best cut.

The rotary rough cut mower is kind a brute force method. There are just a couple of blades going around at very high RPM. The blades are very thick and heavy. The quality of the cut is generally ok for a field. They can go over about anything up to small brush and saplings without much damage to the unit. Keep everyone out of the way as they can through material a long way. I find the disadvantage is they stick out way behind the tractor, so tougher to mow around stuff and at least with the 1/4" valve system on my and I the B3200, as you mow with it, it has a tendancy to sag down in the front and you have to bring the front of the mower up. ChuckinNH has sent me an adjust he says helps with this, but I have not had a chance to try it. If you are only going to mow it a couple of times per year or if you have areas that are rough and you will need to clear such as brushy areas, the rough cut mower is the tool. But on my property, I have used mine once this year and I used it because we had a wet spring and I didn't mow until it was up pretty high. Using it, I don't worry if I run over a branch that fell during the winter and is under the grass.

All this land has hedge apples which are large (like a large orange) and branchs that fall a lot this time of year.

THere are no trees on most of this land until you get to the fence line.

One of the tractors has draft control on 3 pt hitch. Would that be easier than the quarter inch system?

KC

 

[KU Gator]

All this land has hedge apples which are large (like a large orange) and branchs that fall a lot this time of year. - We have hedge apples too. I tend to cut it high enough that it doesn't hit them at our other property. I typically mow it at 3.5 to 4". Branches I pick up if they are big enough to bother me and toss them into the brush.

THere are no trees on most of this land until you get to the fence line.

One of the tractors has draft control on 3 pt hitch. Would that be easier than the quarter inch system? - I would say so. Talk to them about it. I have not personally used it, but my nephew in FL has an L series and he said he could just set it to the height and it would maintain that height. I think the 1/4" system is supposed to be better for fine adjustments.

 

[IslandTractor]

One of the tractors has draft control on 3 pt hitch. Would that be easier than the quarter inch system?

KC

No draft control is not relevant. Position control is an improvement over the quarter inching valve but you'd need to move to the L series Kubota or to a different manufacturer as the B series doesn't have it.

 

[kcook]

No draft control is not relevant. Position control is an improvement over the quarter inching valve but you'd need to move to the L series Kubota or to a different manufacturer as the B series doesn't have it.

THe other tractor is a 3032E I think has it.

KC

 

[IslandTractor]

I prefer position control but there are lots and lots of happy B series owners who live without it. It is desirable but not a deal breaker.

 

[ChuckinNH]

No draft control is not relevant. Position control is an improvement over the quarter inching valve but you'd need to move to the L series Kubota or to a different manufacturer as the B series doesn't have it.

The B2630, and B3030 both have position control, but are also more expensive than the B3200, or smaller B's I have quarter inching, and don't care for it much.

 

[IslandTractor]

The B2630, and B3030 both have position control

Thanks for the clarification. I forgot about the deluxe B models.

 

[ChuckinNH]

Well, they all should have position control, just like the Kioti's. It's too bad that Kubota just assumes that it doesn't matter to folks, but I guess they have the sales figures to give them that confidence. Mine is very sensitive, and I would be delighted if I could actually get slow movement, or 1/4" increments. I would suggest that folks that are going to use this feature try the 3pt with some weight on it before choosing. After a 100hrs of use, I've found my tractor to be about the right size, and weight for the things I have done, or want to do, but it might have been a different color if I had more experience bush hogging, grading, box blading, using middlebusters, and subsoilers before I bought it.