Looking for Help!

[headfirecracker]

Thanks for all the feedback. :thumbsup:The rock is pretty big and its sitting in the ditch, easily over 6'. I have some more pics of the motor and numbers on it.

How would I go about measuring the motor J J?

Also how could I find the torque and rpm of my original motors?

 

[headfirecracker]

Try and determine the cu in of the wheel motor.

Then look at wheel motors on Surplus and Ebay.

Surplus Center

They have 25 of these motors.

28.3 cu in HYD WHEEL MOTOR W/5 BOLT HUB

They have 10 of these motors.

13.9 CU IN TE0230US251AAFB PARKER HYD WHEEL MOTOR

If you have to or just want to go to a larger hyd motor, you will gain torque, but lower speed.

I like the 9-8092s, Love the price wouldn't mind buying 4 if I knew the torque and speed would match, or better itself from factory. If I did my math correct should be around 12mph little to fast to their 8mph on website

 

[MossRoad]

As I understand it, the larger the cubic inch displacement of the hydraulic motor, the slower you will go, but more torque available to the wheels. So if you get larger wheel motors than you currently have, you'll have lower top speed, but more of a mountain goat. Smaller wheel motors will give you faster tram time, but more of a sprinter with less guts.

 

[MossRoad]

Also, if you don't get an exact replacement, you could cause problems in the series/parallel motor arrangement. Again, as I understand it(forgive me if this is incorrect), the left front and right rear motors are in series and the right front and left rear motors are in series, forming two series circuits. Then those two series circuits are connected in parallel. If you have two motors in series and one of them is a different displacement than the other, they will fight each other. If they are fighting each other, it will throw off the balance in the parallel arrangement, too. Again, I could be completely mistaken, but I think that's how my 400 series is arranged. Don't know about the larger units.

 

[J_J]

Thanks for all the feedback. :thumbsup:The rock is pretty big and its sitting in the ditch, easily over 6'. I have some more pics of the motor and numbers on it.

How would I go about measuring the motor J J?

Also how could I find the torque and rpm of my original motors?

Remove the motor and completely drain.

Then measure how much fluid it takes to fill the motor.

I am thinking your motors might be around 14 cu in. But anyway work the math backward to figure the cu in.

Go to, Surplus Center and select Technical help, then hydraulics, then motors speed and torque, and plug in numbers.

Torque is determined on the same page. Just enter cu in and psi.

If you are providing 8 GPM, and the motor is 14 cu in, then the speed of the motor will be about 132 rpm.

Also, just call the parts guy at PT and he will tell you the cu in of the motors for your machine.

 

[headfirecracker]

Ok squeezed a little info from parts and service. The motor is 24cu/in white brand. From calculations at surplus 116 rpm, 9554 torque. This motor also has case drains which I know nothing about. Is that something I can plumb in or does the motor have ports for them?

 

[woodlandfarms]

Hold up... The motor from you 2430 is a white? Have you called locals or othe sources for either parts or full replacement? Of course you can buy 4 new motors, which looks to be a thousand all in, but then you modify the pt to make them fit. Your hub may not fit, or your hoses. This all adds up quick. The motor JJ pointed to I own and use on my home made post hold digger. It has British ports so you will need either adapters or new hoses.... IMO research what you have first.

 

[headfirecracker]

Hold up... The motor from you 2430 is a white? Have you called locals or othe sources for either parts or full replacement? Of course you can buy 4 new motors, which looks to be a thousand all in, but then you modify the pt to make them fit. Your hub may not fit, or your hoses. This all adds up quick. The motor JJ pointed to I own and use on my home made post hold digger. It has British ports so you will need either adapters or new hoses.... IMO research what you have first.

Waiting on phone call from central hydraulics gave whites pt part number and he crossed it and gave me white number so maybe there's light at the end of this tunnel. I really know what you're saying about one thing not right having to modify too much not worth it in long run, been thinking about that whole time. Different shaft modify hub, wheel mouting, etc. Will let you guys know something asap, if anyone else has a problem part numbers will be right here.

 

[ponytug]

Sorry about the boulder, and the PT. If you didn't see this in the news, it could be worse;
What I loved about this disaster isn't that the first rock blew through the barn and blew it up, or that the second rock stopped leaning against the house wall, missing the car, it was the third rock from an earlier rockfall off to the lower right. Somebody intentionally rebuilt in the path of these rocks....

On my 1445 the motors are in parallel, i.e. Left side pumps tee off the same supply, ditto right side, with the small subtlety that there are cross connects of a small diameter hose LF motor to RF motor and LR motor to RR motor, at least on my 1445. I would point out that since it all is plumbed back into the same pump chamber, I don't know how much one gains via the cross connect, but since there is still motion even with one wheel in the air, there is a certain amount of dynamic resistance even without a wheel load.

Given the hydraulic plumbing, I suspect that anything other than four identical motors will give you issues. So, if it were me, I'd either replace it with a PT motor, or buy four matching ones of approximately the right size. (Chance to trade up or down to gain torque or speed). Top speed can be converted to rpm, but I don't know how you would get the displacement of the motor. Again, if it were me, I'd skip the oddball motor with a great deal somewhere because when the dust settles, all those little adapter fittings add up.

If you don't want to do that, I'd take the motor into a couple of local hydraulic shops and see if someone recognizes the design, and can interpret what is left of the ID numbers on the motor. The manufacturers make so many variants on the motors with different seal types, shims, and configurations that it is going to be tough to get an exact match without having an expert disassemble it and work out what is actually inside. Of course, there is a price for everything.

J.J.: do you have a link on a standard operating procedure on how to do that displacement measurement? It would seem to me that one would want to fill the motor, turn the shaft a few revolutions and then measure the displace oil for one revolution. Even so, the method seems open to all sorts of potential errors.
I did find this video link on how to do it, but it requires complete disassembly of the pump, so it didn't seem that useful.

All the best,

Peter

 

[ponytug]

Sorry about the boulder, and the PT. If you didn't see this in the news, it could be worse;
View attachment 359260
What I loved about this almost Darwin award winner isn't that the first rock blew through the barn and blew it up,
or that the second rock stopped just before blowing the house up and managed to miss the car,
it was that there is a third rock off to the right from an earlier rockfall with moss growing on it.
Somebody intentionally rebuilt in the path of these rocks....

But back to the topic at hand. On my 1445 the motors are in parallel, i.e. Left side pumps tee off the same supply, ditto right side, with the small subtlety that there are cross connects of a small diameter hose LF motor to RF motor and LR motor to RR motor, at least on my 1445. I would point out that since it all is plumbed back into the same pump chamber, I don't know how much one gains via the cross connect, but since there is still motion even with one wheel in the air, there is a certain amount of dynamic resistance even without a wheel load.

Given the hydraulic plumbing, I suspect that anything other than four identical motors will give you issues. So, if it were me, I'd either replace it with a PT motor, or buy four matching ones of approximately the right size. (Chance to trade up or down to gain torque or speed). Top speed can be converted to rpm, but I don't know how you would get the displacement of the motor. Again, if it were me, I'd skip the oddball motor with a great deal somewhere because when the dust settles, all those little adapter fittings add up.

If you don't want to do that, I'd take the motor into a couple of local hydraulic shops and see if someone recognizes the design, and can interpret what is left of the ID numbers on the motor. The manufacturers make so many variants on the motors with different seal types, shims, and configurations that it is going to be tough to get an exact match without having an expert disassemble it and work out what is actually inside. Of course, there is a price for everything.

J.J.: do you have a link on a standard operating procedure on how to do that displacement measurement? It would seem to me that one would want to fill the motor, turn the shaft a few revolutions and then measure the displace oil for one revolution. Even so, the method seems open to all sorts of potential errors.
I did find this video link on how to do it, but it requires complete disassembly of the pump, so it didn't seem that useful.

All the best,

Peter