Tractor Sizing Looking for HP Recommendation

[youne]

Hey all! First time poster here. We are moving to an acreage in just over a month and I'm hoping you can help with a horsepower recommendation.

Primary tasks:
- Mowing (if I can get away with a small enough tractor I would do MMM. If not, I would do a finish mower and get a separate ZTR).
- Snowblower and/or Blade
- Potentially running auger for post hole digging off PTO
- Tilling for breaking hard ground - clay/grass to be able to till it and then plant trees
- Will also include a loader

Total lot size is 5 acres and we would be planting trees around almost the entire perimeter. The ground is hard, dry clay and I want a unit that I can use for the ongoing yard maintenance, but that isn't going to strain if I ask it to break ground. Land is fairly flat, any hills are subtle.

Let me know if you need any more info to help answer, thank you!

D

 

[kenmac]

Doesn't sound like you'll be doing much on 5 acres.
If you aren't breaking hard ground and want a mmm.
just go with the largest tractor with mmm.
Most of these small tractors will accommodate a PHD for planting trees.

Or you could go up to the next size without mmm and purchase a z mower.

You are going to get many opinions here as to what others think you need/want. In the end, only know what you need the tractor to do.

In my case, I started out only needing a 50 hp tractor. I have ended up with a 50 hp and a 105 hp tractor ! LOL

 

[rademamj1]

No mention of your budget, but a subcompact in the 21hp to 26hp range would probably handle all your needs for 5 acres. Looks like mainly mowing, landscaping and tree planting is your dominate tasks. Consider a Kioti CK2610, Kubota BX2380, JD 1025R in that order of preference based on budget. Include the MMM and Loader with the tractor choice. The MMM can be a very capable finish mower. Get Turf tires for the least damage to your lawns, and for best traction during winter snowblowing. The Kioti does offer a powerful front mounted snowblower for the CK2610.

Any Post Hole Digger can be used to plant trees, or at least get a very good start on the tree hole.

Make sure you get the SSQA for your loader bucket, and a set of pallet forks. The SSQA allows you to rapidly swap those loader attachments. A set of pallet forks are both incredibly useful and versatile. They are low cost and highly recommended.

 

[youne]

Thanks, I forgot to mention I'm expecting to have to till essentially virgin ground to prep the area for the tree planting, that's the main horsepower concern I have. I think I want to be bigger than the SCUTs just in case I do need it.

I was thinking the mid 20s HP range would be a lot for me, but have a couple voices in my ear thinking I should be between 40 and 50 so just checking my research.

Thank you!

 

[ning]

Thanks, I forgot to mention I'm expecting to have to till essentially virgin ground to prep the area for the tree planting, that's the main horsepower concern I have. I think I want to be bigger than the SCUTs just in case I do need it.

I was thinking the mid 20s HP range would be a lot for me, but have a couple voices in my ear thinking I should be between 40 and 50 so just checking my research.

Thank you!

I'm not sure why you need to till ground for tree planting?

 

[youne]

Mostly to keep the grass from sucking water away from the trees while they're growing, at least for the first few years.

 

[jeff9366]

I recommend at <26 horsepower tractor to avoid the expense and complexity of Tier IV emission controls.

If you need a front PTO and MMM the Kubota LX 2610 would fill the bill, though it is a little light at 2,000 pounds bare tractor weight. Even with filled rear tires the tractor will bounce around operating a PTO-powered, forward rotating roto-tiller in hard ground. You will need to roto-till in fairly small increments, several times.

Land is fairly flat, any hills are subtle.

If you have ample time, a 2,000 pound bare weight tractor will serve you well on five acres.

If you forego the front PTO the Kubota L2501 is wider and heavier at 2,700 pounds, therefore a more stable machine. A 2,700 pound tractor will operate a roto-tiller 12" wider than a less stable 2,000 pound tractor with the same horsepower.

VIDEO: Kubota B-Series vs Standard L1 Series - YouTube


In any tractor line, 2,700 pounds bare weight is when a $400 FEL Bucket Spade becomes an effective tool. Really good for planting trees.

MORE BUCKET SPADE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/328798-bucket-spade-today-fel-bucket.html?highlight=


Weight in the tiller is your friend tilling hard ground. Research C-shaped tiller tines vs L-shaped tiller tines. You probably want C-shaped tiller tines for clay.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

Few here would till ground before planting trees..... but we know neither your location nor what tree(s) you intend to plant. There are millions of grass and weed seeds in the soil waiting to germinate after you till, making sunlight available to the dormant seeds.

Most would shallow/surface till annually after planting trees or control grass with a light applications of Roundup/Glycophosphate in a manual pump-sprayer for the first two years. Or wood chip mulch to within 12" of trunk.

Most wild grass only goes down 3" to 4" and generally is not water greedy. The crucial time for watering young trees is during the first three weeks and during extended dry periods the next two years. Browsing deer are usually the greater threat to juvenile trees after year one.

Make sure you get the SSQA for your loader bucket, and a set of pallet forks. The SSQA allows you to rapidly swap those loader attachments. A set of pallet forks are both incredibly useful and versatile. They are low cost and highly recommended.

== YES == Buy short tine length pallet forks.

 

[big bubba]

looks like you have 2 things going on here, tractor choice & tree planting. in terms of tree planting, sounds like you have an initial plan started. if you're interested in more tree planting feedback, you might post your ideas in the projects forum. lots to consider: how many trees? how will you irrigate once planted? & yes, deer will be the main culprits from browsing & buck rubs. i make small fence enclosures for some of the more vulnerable ones, but not all by any means. spiral trunk wraps help, but of course won't help with young branch browsing, etc.

Tree Guards | Tree Protection | Spiral Tree Protector Wrap - Tree Armor

over the years i've planted over a hundred of nursery stock trees on my place. i like to see people involved in tree planting, & think you'd get good response in the projects forum
it could save you a lot of headache after the fact.
in terms of weed control, the consumer market landscape cloth (lowes, etc) is worthless. get heavy duty landscape cloth through Amazon, etc. contractor grade, etc
good luck, best regards

 

[rademamj1]

Youne: Random Tree planting does not need soil tilling. Unless your planting an orchard or rows of grape vines, in which case you would disk and grade your entire property with laser level for proper slopes and water drainage. For that you would need a professional service and becomes a much more involved project.

But you said simply tree planting...and whether that be fruit, flowering or landscape trees, the best preparation is simply repeated mowing to remove brush and control grasses. A 26hp tractor should easily handle a 48" rotary cutter, and good for cutting and clearing upto 1" thick growth. After that any MMM will keep things under control.

Constant mowing is your best friend at removing unwanted high brush, which maybe competing for tree water resources. After mowing, the remaining normal field grasses will not compete for water to your trees. And if your still seriously concerned about grass, just put mulch around the base of each newly planted tree to totally eliminate grasses.

I myself don't like mulch, as it acts as a sponge and absorbs and holds water which would go to the tree and surrounding grasses. It also can be a source for fungus and molds at the base of each tree. But mulch does eliminate grass. Draw up a plan for your property, placing where each tree and type of tree is to be placed.

You were originally concerned about tractor HP and most of the advice is right at the 26hp. With your dominate clay soil, which holds water for long period of time, you don't want a heavy larger hp tractor creating permanent ruts, and your constantly trying to repair ruts or retrieving stuck tractors.

 

[youne]

Thanks all for the feedback. Re the tree planting, I'm looking at building a shelter belt around the perimeter so will be planting at least two rows of trees, likely numbering in the few hundreds when all said and done. Sounds like I have my HP accurate but need to consider the weight piece more. Thanks all!!

D