Looking for ideas on how to build the best low to no maintenance deck

[NorTracNY]

I have built several decks for my two homes and for family/friends in the great PNW. Decks around here stay wet for long periods. I have always used PT wood (slit penetrated preservative) for all of the structural beams, posts, and joists with no direct burial of posts. I set them on cement blocks or pouring. No issues in over thirty years. The decking is another story. I always use 5/4 cedar (tight knot because I cannot afford clear 2x4s). This does deteriorate over time and needs to be replaced after twenty years even with preservative stain applied every once in awhile.

My next deck (expansion and resurfacing) on my current home that I plan to die in will be the composite (Trex or equivalent) or the Ironwood that looks so much better if I can afford it. I do want to eliminate the nail/screw penetrations through the top of the decking in any case though. I will still use PT fir for the supporting structure.

I built a Trex deck 7 years ago and it's holding up great. The number 1 thing I wanted was very low maintainance and I got it. I love that no one has gotten a sliver from the deck. It did cost more (the support structure needs to be designed for Trex as the planks are a lot heavier than PT and they are not structural members), but it was definitely worth it.

As for the screws on top. I didn't want that, but the systems for bracketing from the bottom were VERY expensive and if you had to replace one board, you'd have to do it from the top. I found snap off screws. They were about the same price as regular screws, but they took longer to put in. I found that pre-drilling was critical to having them work.

 

[ultrarunner]

Anyone have experience with Versadeck aluminum decks?

Aluminum Decking and Railing by Versadeck - High performance aluminum decks

 

[ustmd]

Anyone have experience with Versadeck aluminum decks?

Aluminum Decking and Railing by Versadeck - High performance aluminum decks

Ultrarunner--I haven't but there was an article in a recent Fine Home Building about how metal decks were becoming very popular in your part of the country. One of the tool makers has even released a special circular saw for working on metal decks.

 

[ultrarunner]

It makes sense in that I would rather do a job once and have it last even if the initial cost is more.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

I built a Trex deck 7 years ago and it's holding up great. The number 1 thing I wanted was very low maintainance and I got it. I love that no one has gotten a sliver from the deck. It did cost more (the support structure needs to be designed for Trex as the planks are a lot heavier than PT and they are not structural members), but it was definitely worth it.

As for the screws on top. I didn't want that, but the systems for bracketing from the bottom were VERY expensive and if you had to replace one board, you'd have to do it from the top. I found snap off screws. They were about the same price as regular screws, but they took longer to put in. I found that pre-drilling was critical to having them work.

11 years on my deck, which is still pretty maintenance free. I pressure wash it once a year. The support framing is ground-contact rated pressure treated, not the cheap stuff. Everything exposed to view is the recycled plastic/wood fiber composite. I didn't use Trex, but something similar.

 

[dickfoster]

I built a Trex deck 7 years ago and it's holding up great. The number 1 thing I wanted was very low maintainance and I got it. I love that no one has gotten a sliver from the deck. It did cost more (the support structure needs to be designed for Trex as the planks are a lot heavier than PT and they are not structural members), but it was definitely worth it.

As for the screws on top. I didn't want that, but the systems for bracketing from the bottom were VERY expensive and if you had to replace one board, you'd have to do it from the top. I found snap off screws. They were about the same price as regular screws, but they took longer to put in. I found that pre-drilling was critical to having them work.

Yeah concrete and steel with pan decking and concrete if it's an elevated deck.

If there is wood involved the clock is ticking no matter what you deck it with because it's the structuring that rots, burns and the bugs eat. I know how to make it last longer but about all you can do is put off the inevitable. I just tore out a wood deck out front and replaced it with concrete and am looking at doing the same for the elevated deck out back. Yeah you do pay more but you only pay once. You can make concrete look real purdy with stamp and stain. You could even make it look like wood if you wanted to. This is concrete

 

[ultrarunner]

Still looking for the wood preservative this side of the pond... the deck/railings etc. on the place I built in Austria is now 35 years old and in great shape... every few years I put a solvent based preservative on it which really works... apparently can't be sold here but the second biggest market outside Europe is the Philippines...