Looking for info on this logging winch

[ktm250rider]

I have similar issues with mine too. Any update on fixing? I figured on replacing the clutch plate.

 

[atgreene]

My father bought the first one sold in the state of Maine with the drop-down legs, 1984 or 85? IIRC? Sold his John Deere 1010 dozer with winch and bought the Farmi for the IH 300. He's used it since then, never changed the clutch, biggest issue in all those years was a broken cable tension arm last spring. All the parts are still available as far as I know. I have a 501, my brother had the 301? and we've bought and traded a few others over the years. Good winches.

Best bet for pulling a trailer is to weld a hitch to the bottom of the winch so you can haul it behind the winch rather than have the tongue under the winch. My father uses check chains to hold the winch up when hauling a trailer.

The lower sheeve block is also handy. Pulling from the top of the winch is not a good idea, puts lots of strain on the top center link and is tippy when pulling.

 

[rasorbackq]

Was talking to a guy with the same winch as me . He had the same issues I am having He went to the repair place thinking it was a the clutch that was gone . The dealer said that they have never replaced a clutch plate in a Farmi winch. They sold him a thrust bearing for $32 He never installed it but he did oil his original one without dismantling and cured the problem. The thrust bearing is very near the lever ( pull string) to engage the winch. Have to see it to see how it works Pressure is applies on one side ( twisting motion ) and it expands to apply pressure to the clutch. Its on my list to dismantle and check it out.
You can adjust the clutch all you want if the thrust bearing is seized the friction will not be transferred to the cable.

 

[rasorbackq]

I stopped in at the Farmi dealer and had a long talk about this winch. Most of the discussion was about how the surface of the plate and the spool has to be flat to have great contact. I pulled it apart and I spray painted the spool and the friction plate to see if was not running flat one on the other . That's when I removed a build up a grease and dirt to see the crack. I would think that the spool is not getting an even pressure with the crack like this. Crack is just a hair line but is more then 3/4 the way around. I think a welder can drop a bead on there and not interfere with the operation as the crack is under a felt dust ring to stop dirt from getting in. Not sure as to how thick the piece is or how that would ever crack like that.

 

[jimmysisson]

That's a crack? Looks like a gouge? That's a pretty thick piece of steel to crack, and a pretty concentric clean circle. I can't see how the clutch puts that much pressure against the flywheel.
Of course you're there and I'm not, so...
My Norse winch about 29 yrs old uses similar system for clutch, and would balk a bit at the popple you described, especially uphill. Maybe you're at your winch capacity? Heed the advise about being careful with the top sheave - lots I stress on the top link. Good luck with it.
Jim

 

[Coyote machine]

Here's what I'm thinking based on what you've said you found recently. If the bearing you described is not causing any issues or seized then I would look to see if possibly the clutch plate might have some oil/grease on it. If it does because someone did not heed the DO NOT OIL the chain instruction then the disk could be slipping due to it's being dirty/slippery with grease/oil. I know this from personal experience having greased my chain, before I was made aware not to, and it having thrown grease onto the disk and rendering the winch useless in pulling even the lightest load.
How did I solve this? I used Brakleen and sprayed it and used compressed air to dry the disk until all the grease was gone. I got my ability to pull back.
Also, it's hard to tell from your pics 'cause they're pretty close up, whether the disk mating surface is gouged up or smooth enough to engage properly. Looks to me like it might be a bit too rough for smooth and solid engagement.
I'd show the pics you have to the Farmi dealer, along with some others of the area with a little more distance so one can see the overall situation. Are you referring to the crack way out on the surface away from where the wear is? If so, I also have the dealer scope that out and advise whether it is of concern.
AND, just because the Farmi dealer has never replaced a disk, there's always a first time, and maybe the guy before you beat the clutch disk into dust. I wouldn't rule it out as a possible cause of your issues.

 

[JGL]

Just reading this post, I have a Farmi jl 290 on a Kubota l2250,have been getting my wood out for the past 15 years or so, never have encountered this problem as yet. Once a year, before starting to cut wood , I hook the winch to a tree and free wheel as long as the cable will let me, then I pull myself back with the blade up. I find that this unravels the cable on the drum and takes the kinks out of it while still under load. Other than that , a little oil where they tell you in the manuel, she's been a tough toy.

 

[rasorbackq]

Well showed to my neighbor and he says its not a crack Its the end of the spool that was welding to the sides and then machined smooth. Lots of weld left on the inside where the wire wrapped. He thought the spool was rusted too much and may not get a solid engagement on the friction plate.
His suggestion was to sand it as best I can . Clean up the pads and try it . If it works better take itv all apart and go to a machine shop and have them lathe the plate smooth again. I don't want to remove much as the friction disc is 10 MM and replacement is 7 MM. I did price the pads and are $60 ea X 6 plus rivets.
I have cleaned up the plate and pads seems to pull better but have not had the opportunity to pull a heavy pull yet.


n

 

[JGL]

Your buddy might be right, I keep mine under a plastic tarp when not in use. When I take it out, it's still the same as before. Now is the time to get it fixed before frost sets in the ground. That's the time I usually go in the woods to cut, my wood lot has a lot of wet areas.

 

[Coyote machine]

Well showed to my neighbor and he says its not a crack Its the end of the spool that was welding to the sides and then machined smooth. Lots of weld left on the inside where the wire wrapped. He thought the spool was rusted too much and may not get a solid engagement on the friction plate.
His suggestion was to sand it as best I can . Clean up the pads and try it . If it works better take itv all apart and go to a machine shop and have them lathe the plate smooth again. I don't want to remove much as the friction disc is 10 MM and replacement is 7 MM. I did price the pads and are $60 ea X 6 plus rivets.
I have cleaned up the plate and pads seems to pull better but have not had the opportunity to pull a heavy pull yet.


n

What did you use to clean the pads?Also your pics, what exactly are you showing us? All I can say from looking at the surface is there is a lot of rust and wear and what appears to not be a very flat surface from the outer edge of the big hole for some distance across the worn area and then, near the top of pic # 2 the gap between the shiny surface and the rest of the darker portion of the disk. If what you're showing us, the shiny rough area, is where the clutch pads are supposed to contact to pull the cable it should be perfectly smooth, or have a machined crosshatch pattern to grab the clutch pads securely to effect proper friction and allow the cable to pull it's intended load. IMHO, without the necessary smooth AND FLAT surface you will not be able to achieve the winch's potential pulling power. This may be why it was for sale? If by cleaning/sanding the pad contact surface and thoroughly cleaning the pads you achieve significantly more pulling power then you are on the right track and should consider having the surface machined, at a minimum. Again, just my opinion, but that's what I would consider if it were my 'wench'.