Looking for some rear ballast ideas

[ranger danger]

If 500lbs will help, you can have my sister!

 

[pmsmechanic]

I believe the OP is interested in rear ballast ideas. Not arguments. And while the above post certainly moves the topic back to the original issue..... I sincerely hope that for her sake that your sister doesn't weigh 227 kilos.

 

[ranger danger]

I believe the OP is interested in rear ballast ideas. Not arguments. And while the above post certainly moves the topic back to the original issue..... I sincerely hope that for her sake that your sister doesn't weigh 227 kilos.

Only 500 now. Shes been on a diet.

 

[BeezFun]

I made this, I like it because I can tow trailers without taking it off and it doesn't block my view in back.

 

[BeranLaw]

There’s probably been a dozen “rear ballast” or “rear weight” threads on TBN in the last year alone.
Which got me to wondering, why so many new tractor buyers frequently seem to forget to order cast rims or wheel weights?
With the amount of front end loader work done with little tractors, one would think wheel weights were a no-brainer.
Loader = Ballast

When I bought my Massey Fergusen 1635, the salesman didn't even ask about rear wheel weights or tire ballast. Being from the farm, and returning to "gentleman farmer" I suspected my Fergi wouldn't be heavy enough. I can't imagine pushing snow, or moving dirt, trees, logs without weights.

We use box blade most of the time, but a carry all or a barrel works with enough weight, and added benefit of being able to carry tools, ie. chain saw, or shovel, or chains... When I build one will make tool rack, chain saw holder, ...

 

[scribble]

Any weight added between the front axle and the rear axle will increase the load on the front axle as it is the pivot.
Any weight added behind the the rear axle will reduce the front axle load. The further the weight added is behind the rear axle the more effective it is at reducing front axle load.

I found some 12" x 14" x 2" slabs of steel at the local scrap yard. They weighed ~100lbs each and had a 2" hole punched through so I tack welded 5 together, added a ~2" pipe with cat1 pins in each end through the 2" hole and welded a bracket on top for the top link.

 

[RancherGuy]

What if youre in tight quarters working though? This is why i want to build something thats up close to the tractor.

Having owned 7 tractors and still have 5 ... you really want a quick hitch. For ballast, it is highly recommended to make it behind the axle, thus on your 3 point (quick hitch). This also means add and remove at will.

If you are concerned about how far ballast sticks out behind, then my experience says that tight quarters and heavy lifting will not happen at the same time. Besides, if you have ballast, whats the difference between close and far - a foot?

For materials, I'm cheap. I would think about a 1 to 1.5" steel rod or HD pipe through a wooden box-shaped form, or maybe a 30 gallon plastic barrel. Fill with box-store concrete. With the quick hitch, you don't even have to buy expensive Cat 2 pins - just make sure you set it up so the hitch points do not slip off the rod.

 

[timbrr]

I made this, I like it because I can tow trailers without taking it off and it doesn't block my view in back.

I think something like this is the best way to go.

If you don't already have a quick hitch, you should probably get one, as it makes life so much easier.

If you're going to get a quick hitch then recognise that its location makes it act like a counterweight anyway, so why not kill two birds with one stone? Build a very heavy quick hitch yourself, or modify an existing one to make it very heavy. That gives you additional functionality as well as more counterweight.

Perhaps a third benefit is that a quick hitch has depth. Because of this depth, anything hooked up to it is a little bit further back from the rear axle. The further back the mass, the more effective it is as a counterweight. Thus a quick hitch acts as a force multiplier and makes whatever actual counterweight you use more effective — for free.

As long as you don't make it so deep that your 3PH implement's PTO shafts end up too short, a very heavy quick hitch seems to be a win on all fronts.

 

[Bentrim]

My son brought home a 55 gallon barrel that someone stuck a crossbar drawbar thru it put a 2" receiver hitch out of the back and fashioned some flat straps for the top link. Then filled it with concrete even thought to put a bolt in the center with a short chain on it to pick it up without hooking it to the three point. Have a 245 MF with a 232 loader and didn't need chains plowing snow last year. Sorry don't have any photos but if you want some leave me know I'll get some. Have a great day.

 

[Gord Baker]

Wanting to make up my own rear ballast set up thats easy to take on and off. Anybody thats made there own care to share some pics? Would like to set it up so that i can basically back up to it setting on blocks or something and pick it up without having to fight it.

I used one of the smaller 35 gal plastic barrels and put a 3PH drawbar through carefully cut holes about a foot from the bottom and filled it with concrete to 6" from the top. Measure carefully so you don't get the barrel too close to the tractor. A sturdy bar or chain with a big link at the top attached to the drawbar inside the barrel will work for top link, have it exit at edge of Barrel. Trial fit everything first.
The item will be top heavy so hook up the top link first. Park it on a level Pallet. The top of the weight can be used to put in chains etc.