looking to buy a jd 3720 are they okay ?

[DP Property]

If you have the 300 fel that will help with cog and since you have the fel you definitely need weight on the rear, either liquid filled tires and/or wheel weights and ballast box. All this weight will help. Furthermore, you may consider rear wheel spacers depending on your situation. I have all the above except wheel weights on my 3720 cab tractor and this pretty much eliminated any cog concerns I had and I mow some very steep hills.

Thank You sunnyside for the information on this machine I really appreciate it. It is a lot of money worth more then my F-350 superduty crew cab so I want to make sure I made a wise choice. I do a lot of snow in my small town in the winter and in the last two years have picked up lots of rough cutting. Including contracts for a large development company and the township of Lakeshore. The 4000 series was a little out of my budget so I went with the 3720. I figure it will pay it self off in 5 years or less as all my other Deere equipment has done in the past. I am excited dealer says maybe in late next week. The waiting is killing me!

 

[greg_g]

I knew the center of gravity would be affected by that cab, but I thought a rear ballast box would take care of the "tippy" part. Didn't take long to figure out I was dead wrong though, the box is positioned too far aft to be any good for that. It's worth doesn't extend beyond front loader compensation. After going up on 3 wheels several times, I went in search of a tire ballast solution.

The 3720 is a pretty small tractor, with correspondingly small tires and a correspondingly low liquid capacity. So I needed something heavy. Tubless rims meant calcium chloride was out, alcohol and antifreeze are only marginally heavier than plain water (8.3 lb/gal). So I found the closest place that sells Rim Guard (~11 lb/gal) and took the tractor there. A 70% fill gave me and additional over 400# in each rear, and nearly 85# in each front. For those of you that would question ballasting the fronts, JD doesn't include front weights as standard equipment on a 3720. And as far as I'm concerned, suitcase weights don't stop pivoting anyway. So my logic was that - if the steering was beefy enough to handle a 350# rack of suitcase weights - it can handle 170# of liquid ballast, and help keep the tires on the ground at the same time.

RimGuard is the most type of liquid ballast (I paid $2.70/gal installed) but it put a good 25% more weight per gallon over each axle than anything other than CaCl. The magic is in the sugar content I guess; adds weight without rust, and lowers considerably the freezing temp of the water component.

//greg//

 

[charleyfarmall]

The way the tractor is built with a fully flat platform, the operator sits high and it feels like it is going to tip. The CG is actually fairly low. Also, you can turn the rears around and get them out more. It really isn't significantly more narrow than other similar sized tractors with the wheels out.

That said, if you are going to do a lot of work on hills and you want to widen the tractor, it's fairly easy. You can get the RED skid steer wheel weights off eBay from Prowlermfg 8 lug 9/16". You will widen the rear track by 4" and add weight. $329 for peace of mind.

I have them and hope to finally get around to putting them on this weekend.

Charley

 

[DP Property]

I have had so many plug repairs well rough cutting I have always worried about putting anything in the tires, but so many operators suggest it.

 

[DP Property]

I picked up the 3720 today left at 6 am for the dealer about 2 hours east just outside of London. The tractor is really nice and I am really happy with it. I do notice that the turf tires are inside the fenders this is my only complaint. I will be ordering weel extenders and wheel weights. If it cost a few more dollars thats the breaks I want to feel confident in the tractor. Love the horse power - great. Here is some pictures of my morning

 

[9973720wb19]

looks good. i owned a cab 3720 it's a great powerful tractor, always did what i asked it to - i have a jd with a jd engine in it now and in a lot of ways i liked the Yanmar engine the 3720 had. it started quicker and had self priming fuel - nice when you change the fuel filter. never had one problem with the 3720

 

[Rockgod]

Nice, congrats! :thumbsup:

 

[DP Property]

Nice, congrats! :thumbsup:

Thanks brother - man your gripper claw looks nice too :thumbsup:

 

[DP Property]

looks good. i owned a cab 3720 it's a great powerful tractor, always did what i asked it to - i have a jd with a jd engine in it now and in a lot of ways i liked the Yanmar engine the 3720 had. it started quicker and had self priming fuel - nice when you change the fuel filter. never had one problem with the 3720

That is great to know Thank You

 

[DP Property]

The way the tractor is built with a fully flat platform, the operator sits high and it feels like it is going to tip. The CG is actually fairly low. Also, you can turn the rears around and get them out more. It really isn't significantly more narrow than other similar sized tractors with the wheels out.

That said, if you are going to do a lot of work on hills and you want to widen the tractor, it's fairly easy. You can get the RED skid steer wheel weights off eBay from Prowlermfg 8 lug 9/16". You will widen the rear track by 4" and add weight. $329 for peace of mind.

I have them and hope to finally get around to putting them on this weekend.

Charley

Hey Charley are those skid steers weights on ebay in the same quality comparison as the unverferth 4" wheel extensions I have read about here? That is an excellent price thank you for telling me about them. My only concern is how does the quality of the part look to you? Will you be installing front spacers also or just the rears? and also could you do a photo tutorial if you would not mind? I think I will end up odering these.