Lost barn to Katrina, need advice

[kn6md]

Building Plans
If you have a city or county building department that requires a sign off of your proposed building’s plans before issuing a building permit, you might want to make certain that your building comes with not only plans but a foundation plan as well. By comes with, I mean included in the price. Both should be signed by an architect or engineer (wet signature) licensed to do business in your city/county.
I built a couple of buildings like yours and to be safe, I got the plans—including the foundation plans-- from the building supplier (had to pay for them, non-refundable, but deducted from the total cost of the building if I bought it) and got my building permit *before* I bought the building. My county wanted structural calculations, etc. so I gave them the phone number of the building supplier. I did not want to run into a permit problem and have ten thousand pounds of steel in my yard that I couldn’t use.
If your proposed building does not come with foundation plans and you need them, you will have to hire an architect or engineer to create them for your particular building and that can get very expensive. It will be likely that the local engineer will, to be safe, do an overkill foundation and that, too, will be costly.
I'm sorry you and so many others lost so much in that storm, and hope your new building will take whatever nature dishes out in the future.

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If I buy a kit, will it explain things like setting the posts -- and how do you get them all even at the top? )</font>
I liked the method that Cleary used when they put up my polebarn this past December.

The poles were all prefabbed from the factory - 3-ply 2 x 6's, nailed together, and were over length by several feet. The center ply (2 x 6) was shorter than the two outside ones. It flush with the bottom of the other plys but 5' shorter at the top.

What they did was set and level all the poles, and then install 4 rows of 2 x 6 girts all around the outside to tie it all together and keep it from moving. After that was done a spacer block was cut for each pole individually to fill in the center of the poles and provide the correct height to set the trusses (which were made from 2 x lumber) on. This allowed the poles to be set without having to make sure they were all exactly the correct height initially ..... they only had to be close and it created a saddle for the truss to lay in.

Once the trusses were set they installed two 1/2" x 8" stainless steel bolts thru the poles and the truss for each connection point. Then the extra length of the outside two plys (which stuck up above the trusses) were trimmed off flush.

 

[dholly]

I agree with CurlyDave's approach as well. When shopping, you will not be constrained to one particular size, therefore, it allows for unlimited flexibility size-wise, ie., can buy what's on sale! One other suggestion I would make (or make provisions for): either one or two open or closed shed roof extensions from the main barn with a dirt or gravel base. Keeping your indoor slab clean when your primary equipment parking and shop share the same space can be a real PITA. Good luck, and keep us posted!

 

[rebelmedic]

Theres a company in Poplarville and Hattiesburg that builds the barns. They have on site models in Hattiesburg so you see how they are constructed.They are 2 miles north of I59 on highway 49. I`m planning on a 30x50 being put up this summer. Heres a phone #601-296-0550. They can answer some ?`s and send you a pamplet with sizes and prices.

 

[RockinG]

Thanks to all for your education and input. This is a project I would really like to do myself, with a little help, OK, a lot of help, rather than paying someone to do it for me. Maybe not too bright, but I want to learn.

RebMedic, Thanks for the info on the Hattiesburg company. I'll take a ride up there this weekend and look see.

I'm sure I will have lots more questions. Thanks for educating a newbe.

 

[OrangeTractor]

Hey RockinG, My family and I built a 40x60 polebarn back in 1983 and it has with stood many hurricanes since then. I can gave you some answers that would take me all to long to peck out on the forum. So if you have the time, you can come by here and look at mine. Just north of I-10 on hwy 63.
Escatawpa. Email me for directions.
Steve

 

[buckeyefarmer]

It's amazing the difference between just 2 counties in the same state. A friend in the next county just built a 40x96 barn, permit cost him $30, and no inspections. For me in the next county, to build a 30x48, permit cost almost $200, need 20" round footers per pole, gotta get them inspected, etc, need stamped truss drawings..
I'm about ready to start mine. not sure how to get a 20" hole, phd bits come in 18" or 24". think I'll go 18" and round out the tops a little.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

It's amazing the difference between just 2 counties in the same state. A friend in the next county just built a 40x96 barn, permit cost him $30, and no inspections. For me in the next county, to build a 30x48, permit cost almost $200, need 20" round footers per pole, gotta get them inspected, etc, need stamped truss drawings..
I'm about ready to start mine. not sure how to get a 20" hole, phd bits come in 18" or 24". think I'll go 18" and round out the tops a little.

 

[Plan_B]

I have an old wood frame shop/barn that was damaged by Katrina but needs to be replaced due to it's age, size, condition and elevation. I plan to do a concrete over lay over the old slab with the necessary footers and rebar. I also need to do as much work myself but am lacking experience in doing such a project. I will hire out the slab work and hopefully do most of the framing and metal work myself with help. Several TBN'ers have used a system called Sock-it-systems that appears to be structurally strong and easy to build . Plus there is no wasted space due to trusses or ceiling joists. I believe that you can also use rough-sawn lumber for additional savings. So far this is my plan unless I find something more practical. I will also contact the company in Hattiesburg for more information. Good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Sock-it-Systems

 

[Plan_B]

I have an old wood frame shop/barn that was damaged by Katrina but needs to be replaced due to it's age, size, condition and elevation. I plan to do a concrete over lay over the old slab with the necessary footers and rebar. I also need to do as much work myself but am lacking experience in doing such a project. I will hire out the slab work and hopefully do most of the framing and metal work myself with help. Several TBN'ers have used a system called Sock-it-systems that appears to be structurally strong and easy to build . Plus there is no wasted space due to trusses or ceiling joists. I believe that you can also use rough-sawn lumber for additional savings. So far this is my plan unless I find something more practical. I will also contact the company in Hattiesburg for more information. Good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Sock-it-Systems