Low compression on KE70 need parts source

[Ilikeurtractor]

If you can see black smoke then you should be getting enough fuel to it to start. Can you post a video? Sometimes smoke is hard to see in videos though depending on what the background is like. Most of my tractors start out puffing white smoke and then go to black and then they start, even if after a 15-20 second pre-glow. You'll notice this in the video after the re-ring just before it starts and runs. As you're cranking you can move the lever slowly back and forth and generally you can hear the starter labor less when there is more fuel or you hit that "sweet spot" where it wants to run. Generally engines with good compression don't really exhibit a sweet spot, they'll start at whatever the fuel lever is set at (except off or near off of course). Sometimes more fuel can actually make it worse, another sign of low compression in my experience. If you don't have all the air out of the fuel system it will give you problems. Make sure you bleed at the fuel filter housing and where the line goes into the pump. Sometimes you need to do it more than once and you should bleed until it is a steady stream of fuel with no bubbling. It sounds like you've done this but it's not a bad double-check.

 

[HomesteadOC]

I feel like Im hijacking this thread, so heres the link to my other one covering this issue.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/mitsubishi-satoh/392553-77-satoh-beaver-s370d-wont.html

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Since I have a good opportunity now to see how long a re-ring will last on relatively worn cylinders and pistons I decided to install an hour meter to help me keep track of it. Here is one method using the alternator 'N' connection I mentioned earlier in this thread:

GOPR0347 - YouTube

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

I never fully investigated using the alternator frequency as an engine speed and I have to note that it is a little more complicated than what I described in the previous posts now that I've spent more time on it. I was running some quick numbers and the 2 kHz value I was getting did not correlate easily with engine speed even taking into consideration the 3-phase design of the alternator. I left out an important factor which is the number of poles in the rotor and it seems common values are 10, 12, 14 and 16 for automotive applications but since I don't know the exact engine speed it could be any of those. The best thing to do would be to measure the RPM of the alternator pulley with one of those reflective tape tachometers while getting a frequency reading and then you can calculate the numbers of poles directly. Of course then you'll need to find something that you can program and display an actual engine speed from all of that.

 

[HomesteadOC]

Thats the way most of the cheaper diesel tach companies calculate rpm. The have you put a sensor on the alternator and then use a timing light to tune it and adjust settings in the tach to read correctly. Even the cheap ones are too expensive for me to care about rpm, but the hour meter is definitely a nice add for maintenance.