Low Hour Use Oil Change Frequency

[DieselPower]

Jeff, I prefer to change a filter based on its performance not age. But that requires a filter minder, a low pressure gage installed across the input and out put of the filter assembly. A filter needs to be changed when it restricts flow too much not because it had a birthday.

As far as the filters when storing a tractor for several months. First you need a biocide in the fuel like Biobor or equivalent as well as Stabil or equivalent. Diesel does age! Just slower than gasoline. If you have a convenient way to shut off the fuel to the filter I would be sure the tank was totally full to the brim to stop condensation (if it doesn't breath in and out with temp changes it doesn't make condensation. Then I'd shut off the fuel to the filter and remove the filter. Drain it and wrap it in a clean cloth. It will drain and dry and not grow anything even if you don't use a biocide like you should.

Pat

Actually today's diesel "ages" faster than gasoline. ULSD has a much lower shelf life then the diesel of day's gone by. Biodiesel is even worse. Biodiesel can go bad in as little as 6 months.

 

[patrick_g]

GOT IT, KEN. We are singing the same song.

Clearly you don't have a hot oil phobia but some do. If I were THAT concerned with the hot oil, I'd get a second drain plug, drill a hole through it, install a petcock and then use it in the following way:

Pull the drain plug while engine is cold and quickly replace it with the one with the petcock. Use the vehicle till it is up to normal temp and then shut it down and open the petcock. After all the oil drained then swap back to the normal drain plug and refill the crankcase.

Why not leave the drain with petcock in place for normal ops? Because I go off road and through brush and such with trucks and tractor and "STUFF" would probably hit the petcock and either break it or turn it on a bit and I'd drain oil out at a time it wasn't desired.

So far I haven't got blistered by hot oil but I have had it run all the way to my armpit which is kinda yucky. The filter in my old beater ('89 4x4 Dakota) is VERY inconvenient to R&R. IT is one of the poke a hole in it and drain the filter types.

Pat

Pat

 

[Egon]

There may be an aftermarket drain plug that let's you avoid the hot oil running down your arm.

Cumin's had one but my truck does not have it.

 

[patrick_g]

There may be an aftermarket drain plug that let's you avoid the hot oil running down your arm.

Cumin's had one but my truck does not have it.

O have yet to see any of the "easy drain" plugs that I woiuld trust to not get hurt by a rock or heavy brush or...

Great for ON-HIGHWAY vehicles.

Pat

 

[DieselPower]

O have yet to see any of the "easy drain" plugs that I woiuld trust to not get hurt by a rock or heavy brush or...

Great for ON-HIGHWAY vehicles.

Pat

I have been using FUMOTO (sp?) drain valves for years and have never had a problem. Hit one with a rock on my JD one day and it lived, the pan didn't. You can get them for everything from cars and trucks, OTR truck/tractors and ag tractors and equipment. A good company that makes a good product.

 

[patrick_g]

I have been using FUMOTO (sp?) drain valves for years and have never had a problem. Hit one with a rock on my JD one day and it lived, the pan didn't. You can get them for everything from cars and trucks, OTR truck/tractors and ag tractors and equipment. A good company that makes a good product.

You got the spelling dead on. I checked their site and found this comment:

Warning:
For users under extreme conditions:
If you are using the Engine Oil Drain Valve on off-road vehicles such as farm tractors and logging equipment under extreme environment (i.e. corn fields, brush areas), it is recommended that a hose clip as shown below be used for extra safety and security. The hose clip, which can be purchased at any hardware stores, will firmly keep the lever in the locked position at all times.

I'm glad you didn't ruin your valve on the rock but that was probably just luck of the draw not a real useful test of the off-road survivability of the product. A single sample is not a good predictor. I'm sure it is a quality product and from their description a good design very unlikely to ever cause a problem but anything that sticks down below the rest of the "stuff" is just asking to take a hit off-road.

I like like the easy use aspect but am a bit circumspect about anything that sticks down below where the OEM plug does (given my propensity for driving where maybe I shouldn't.

Maybe I go places that most sane folks don't but I have had several incidents of brush damage to the bottom of my tractor. Slicked the cruise control twice, got an oil line, ran sticks through the starter motor, fuel filter, and radiator in separate incidents.

If I were operating more "normally" you can bet your boots I'd want valves like that as they would be oh so convenient!

Thanks for posting the name.

Here is the site: FUMOTO ENGINEERING

Pat

 

[DieselPower]

I'm glad you didn't ruin your valve on the rock but that was probably just luck of the draw not a real useful test of the off-road survivability of the product. A single sample is not a good predictor. I'm sure it is a quality product and from their description a good design very unlikely to ever cause a problem but anything that sticks down below the rest of the "stuff" is just asking to take a hit off-road.


Pat

I don't just have one. I have 3 JD's with them, 1 Massy combine, 2 old IH's, 1 IH road tractor, 3 cars, 2 P/U's and a lawn mower with them. I have also installed probably close to 100 of them on road tractors over the years. Never once have I seen one fail. They are built like a rock, simple and straight forward design.

I agree that they do stick out, it's the nature of the beast. As long as that's not a problem they are great.

 

[patrick_g]

DieselPower, Don't misunderstand me. My sample of one comment was regarding your crashing your pan and not breaking the drain plug. I assume you haven't crashed all the machines you list! Probably all the ones you installed haven't crashed.

As far as the plug itself is concerned, I think it is a very sound design (ball valve with lock and provision for more locking as recommended by maker for off road), good material choice(brass) and would be a very sweet thing for situations not risking hitting things with it. Therein is my personal concern.

I hit things with the stuff on the bottom side of my vehicles. A few months back I knocked the drain plug off the radiator of my Dakota and it is in a more protected location than the oil drain. If I were not getting into "rough stuff" I'd have those things on my vehicles for sure. The convenience would far outweigh the cost and installation is free (just put it in instead of the regular plug when you change oil. I'm all for convenience in maint. I installed a spin on adapter to replace the canister in my '97 Dodge Cumins. That remoted the filter up in plain sight under the hood and has a filter minder pressure gauge.

Pat

 

[KICK]

I'm amazed at the contortions some people go thru to perform a task which is the mechanical equivalent of a bowel movement.

 

[Soundguy]

My opinion is to change the oil per hour recomendations OR at least 1 per year, whatever comes first.. except that tranny oil ( usually 300 or 600 hrs ) can go 2ys.. etc as long as it is not getting wet.. ( check at drain plug after 1yr.. etc.. )

Soundguy