Low Viscosity vs Hygard

[bigtiller]

Whats the difference? Why does my JD 2720 manual warn me not to mix them? Is it just viscosity or is there a chemical difference that turns to acid and blows up when mixed?

I will be changing the fluid and filter for the first time soon and the dealer strongly suggested I put in low viscosity hygard rather than the hygard the factory put in.

Do I need to purge the lines on my loader and snow blower?

 

[BuilderML]

I would say you are fine with Hygard, unless you are operating in sub zero temps all the time. With that being said in my unit Yanmar says to use J20C. Why in the same tractors they would call for different fluids is beyond me. I would stick with the Hygard if i was you. By the way the HYD. filter is a dealer only item but all other filter are available at Napa. Also if thats the original Hyd. filter on the unit it has 4 magnets inside the filter. Just clean them off and place in the new filter. Hope this helps.:drink:

 

[DFB]

Interesting...the manual for my John Deere 4100 (100% Yanmar built) says that you CAN mix the two and only warns against mixing with any "other" brands, BIO HY-GARD or using ATF. You need is to consider the ambient air temperature you will encounter again according to my manual reg. HY-GARD is shown rated for use down to about +15F where the LOW-VIS chart shows its acceptable down to around -20F. I haven't plowed in temperatures much higher than +10F the last several times I've gone out this year. For me I wouldn't worry about the small amount left in the system if you switch but it's up to you what your comfortable doing.

 

[bigtiller]

I would say you are fine with Hygard, unless you are operating in sub zero temps all the time. With that being said in my unit Yanmar says to use J20C. Why in the same tractors they would call for different fluids is beyond me. I would stick with the Hygard if i was you. By the way the HYD. filter is a dealer only item but all other filter are available at Napa. Also if thats the original Hyd. filter on the unit it has 4 magnets inside the filter. Just clean them off and place in the new filter. Hope this helps.:drink:

There are magnets in the filter also?

I have never done this but I have read here and in the manual, to look for magnets in the suction screen.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Very, very annoying! You never know what is simply protectionist behavior or a real harmfull possibility.

My Steiner says to use only Steiner Torque Fluid! How Stupid!

I use JD Low Viscosity in everything and I must revisit that because I was told that it may actually damage certain hydraulic wheel motors on machines that call for 10W30. Could this be true?

 

[DeereMann]

Well, this is interesting. My JD manuals have never mentioned not mixing HyGard & Lo Vis HyGard, including my latest tractor. In fact, my manual says Lo Vis is 'preferred' over regular vis. But the tractor must have been factory filled with regular vis (Georgia JD plant), because when I changed it @ 50 hour maintenance last year the transmission really quieted down.

Do you have something really unique on your tractor like a Limited Slip clutch pack or something?

I find Lo Vis performs better in all conditions - it flows faster in all hydraulic circuits. You just need to be sure to change it when you should, since it has viscosity index improvers that shear down over time (normal vis does not). This is no different than a multi-vis engine oil, in this respect. You won't get hydrostat transmission squalling & complaining when it's cold out, either.

Sure it costs more, but for changing only every 200 hours or so, it's not that big an expense.

You likely have metal debris magnets inside your suction tube screen. They aren't that strong, just shake the tube & they'll fall out. I wash off the metal debris from my suction screen in the drained hydraulic oil pan.

 

[bigtiller]

I'm going to use the low vis hygard and not worry about the little bit of hygard in the loader and snow blower plumbing. My manual has a different temperature chart than others have talked about.

OMLVU19798_F9

 

[DeereMann]

I think you'll be fine. You can always double check with a dealer as well.

 

[BuilderML]

There are magnets in the filter also?

I have never done this but I have read here and in the manual, to look for magnets in the suction screen.

Sorry i misspoke in my previous post my unit calls for J20A not J20C as earlier stated. Go figure same units and they call for different fluids. I think thats why these post can make ones head spin after awhile.:confused3:

I too had 4 magnets in the suction screen. Yes you should have 4 magnets in the hyd. filter they are the same type as the ones in the suctions screen. Its to easy to just take the filter off and put it aside and install the new one so look inside the old one first. If they don't have them inside it might not be a bad idea to add some as mine were dirty when i did my service. Can't hurt to pick up as many metal chips as you can. You'll need just under 5 gals. of fluid. My advice buy in 1 gal. jugs. it was a pain dealing with the 5 and putting into a smaller container to turn around and dump into he pin hole of a fill port. Have fun.

 

[RalphVa]

I use lo vis Hygard here in Virginia. I wouldn't worry about mixing them. I'd be surprised if yours didn't have the lo vis in it.

Ralph

 

[mfreund]

Hy-guard is for a climate that never gets below freezing. Lo Vis is recommended here in Iowa and my Deere dealer told me they mix very well and are completely compatable.

 

[bigtiller]

I sure do appreciate everyone speaking up........and BuilderML, I will be sure to look for magnets in the filter. I would have never looked in it. Thanks!

 

[Kaliburz]

My dealer explained to me the difference. As stated by mfreund, it's all about temperature. The low viscosity is for colder climates.

I asked my dealer, because I was replacing the hydraulic fluid in an OLD late 1950's Yale forklift. The manual said to use "turbine" quality oil and listed a viscosity index number. I used regular Hy-guard (since I have lots of JD tractors and buy it by the 55 gallon drum), but when cold, below 40F, I notice it takes some time for the pump to prime (pump is HIGHER then the tank).

My suggestion to using Hygard vs low vis in a hydrostatic tranny, let it warm up. If you HAD standard hyguard and you said low vis is quieter, it's (just a guess) the pressure bypass. I have a few old Jacobsen law tractors that have a hydro-stat trans and it squeals when cold (it has different oils recommended too....but one was similar to JD Hyguard-aka hydraulic/transmission oil). If you start it up for winter/cold weather use, start it up, let it idle 5 min....then bump up the throttle a little. If you have a front end loader, cycle the loader up down 3-5 times after warming. Just don't start the thing and in less then 1 min, stomp on the go peddle. You could, but letting it warm up is better.... I do that w/ my JD's when I need to use the hydraulic systems.

 

[pinetree10]

I just changed the engine oil and transmission/hydraulic oil in my 2720 for the first time and found magnets in both the screen and filter. The screen was loaded with metal chips but none on the magnets inside the filter. I was also faced with the dilemma of low viscosity or not and just went with the dealer's recommendation to use low vis because it allows for better circulation in cold or cooler weather. They told me they put it in all tractors they service around here, presumably because we're in Western New York. I don't use my tractor at all in the winter but I do use it in spring and fall when temperatures are in the forties so I followed suit.

My biggest suggestion would be to add hydraulic oil slowly as the ideal level sneaks up on you and you'll suddenly have it flowing out of the dipstick tube if you overfill it. Other suggestions would be to make sure the filter gasket comes off with the filter (it was still stuck to the underside of the tractor) and make sure you put the washer back on with the oil plug (I found it at the bottom of the oil pan).

 

[CobyRupert]

Timely resurgence of this thread as I was just at dealer tonight to buy10 gal (at close to $20/gal) when the owner says you don't want Reg. Hy-Gard, you want the low viscosity. Hmmm?
Here's the chart from my manual, I rarely operate it at below 10 F, and if I did, it would be a slow warm up before I worked it. And I definitely experience 90F plus days in summer.
So which kind would you use?

 

[prs]

Going by your chart, I would use the HyGuard. Your machine's design calls for down to about -14F. Your machine's design rejects the use of the Low VIs Hyguard at just warm spring temps.

When it is -14F, I wash my cloths in Tide. Too cold to wash them out-tide.

prs

 

[CobyRupert]

I was pretty sure that I'd written the right oil down going by the chart, but what was the dealer talking about?
On the other hand, I see a lot of people run low viscosity all year?

 

[CobyRupert]

These are hydraulic oil charts from 3 different JD 5075 manuals I found online. A 2014, a Indian version and a 2015. The last is from my 2012 manual
Basically, for some they say upper range of low viscosity is 68 degrees, for others they say it's 86 degrees.
Why different temp ranges?
What should I use for tractor that sees 5F to 95F?

 

[bigtiller]

just to add to the confusion, here is the chart in my owners manual showing Low-Viscosity for air temps. as high as 104 F.

https://www.google.com/search?tbm=i...vPXKAhVHQSYKHUpoDtQQwg4IGigA&biw=1357&bih=685

 

[Deere Dude]

I was confused when I changed oil in my JD3720. I pulled out the dipstick and engraved on it was HYGard Lo Vis. So I went to the dealer and asked for that specifically. He asked if I was sure because by the door was about 50 5 gallon buckets of HyGard? I confirmed Lo Vis. He went to the back room and brought out a 5 gallon can of Lo Vis that had a 1/4" of dust on the cover. In TN they must use mostly Hy Gard. But, my tractor runs fine all summer in the heat with Lo Vis but I don't use much ground engaging equipment.