Lower brush hog 3point attachments for BX24?

[spk64]

I turned the top link bracket around and that helped some but it kept going below center and locking in place.
I added a couple stop bolts and now it works great.

Now I have plenty of float and it does not go below center and lock. I also have enough lift to get it on the trailer with the top link turned all the way in. Many hours of mowing later on extremely rough ground I can say that it works perfect.

 

[Skyco]

Cool! I wonder though why the top link attachment is made to swivel, it looks to me like that it is sort of a safety so if the rear of the brush hog rides up on something it doesn't bend or overstress something. With the swivel as you picture it with the stop bolt where it is, wouldn't that feature be defeated?

I'm curious too about your chains out to the sides of the brush hog. I'm new to this so is that something I should be doing? I suppose that stops side to side stress on the 3 point hitch parts?

Note to txkevin- I'll try to get some pics of mine later today, it is dark out right now and I forgot about it yesterday

 

[spk64]

Cool! I wonder though why the top link attachment is made to swivel, it looks to me like that it is sort of a safety so if the rear of the brush hog rides up on something it doesn't bend or overstress something. With the swivel as you picture it with the stop bolt where it is, wouldn't that feature be defeated?

I'm curious too about your chains out to the sides of the brush hog. I'm new to this so is that something I should be doing? I suppose that stops side to side stress on the 3 point hitch parts?

Note to txkevin- I'll try to get some pics of mine later today, it is dark out right now and I forgot about it yesterday

The top link is all the way in and does not allow much float. In normal operation it is extended and the swivel is almost vertical allowing motion in both directions. Without this movement the mowing deck would be rigid and not be in contact with the ground unless it was perfectly flat and level.

The chains in the picture are tie downs for the trailer. They are not part of the mower.

 

[UnclePaul]

I have a B2100 FEL and 5' KK. It is an older model, same style but it does not have the floating top link. I was wondering if you took the floating bracket out and used that lower hole for the top link pin. Some drilling mite be needed. This would lower the top link. Then you have more room to shorten the top link and this raises the back of the mower. I have to do this to load on the trailer and run on the road.

 

[Berniep]

spk64:
On my little orange ok cutter the swivel system is just like yours but I let it go below center and it swivels around under and behind. So that in operation the loop with the little counterweight on it is about straight up and the pin is about below the pivot point so that I get the most float, If i explained that ok. Is your pin so long that it catches when it pivots betwen the uprights?

 

[spk64]

spk64:
On my little orange ok cutter the swivel system is just like yours but I let it go below center and it swivels around under and behind. So that in operation the loop with the little counterweight on it is about straight up and the pin is about below the pivot point so that I get the most float, If i explained that ok. Is your pin so long that it catches when it pivots betwen the uprights?

Yes, the top link pin hits the up rights. There is also a bolt if it went much further.
With the modifications made I have considerable float. I had some really rough ground 6-8" ruts and many dips and humps to mow over this past weekend (11 hours of seat time). Except for the really abrupt changes in the ground I was able to keep the tail wheel on the ground and only had to lift the mower a few times for a ditch.

 

[Skyco]

When you get a chance, can you snap a few pictures of your alteration? Due to limited experience with implements in general, I would be very hesitant to alter anything and pictures would really help.

Here ya go- sorry about the poor quality.

First pic you can see how I redrilled the bottom brace to allow for the lowered vertical parts...second pic shows the redrilled and cut off braces that go back to the rear where the whell fram mounts. The vertical parts just had 4.5 inches cut off the bottom and the mounting holes at the ends redrilled.