ls 4047 grapple

   / ls 4047 grapple
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I looked at the EA one too. It would be $300 dollars more. I guess the question would be does it make sense to pay $300 dollars more for a lighter duty implement for increased load capacity. Do you think the EA would be as strong and perform better?
 
   / ls 4047 grapple #12  
Its all a trade off. There are many happy owners of both and I haven't seen any threads about people breaking either one with a compact tractor.
 
   / ls 4047 grapple #13  
I looked at the EA one too. It would be $300 dollars more. I guess the question would be does it make sense to pay $300 dollars more for a lighter duty implement for increased load capacity. Do you think the EA would be as strong and perform better?

That's a tough question, because Wildkat doesn't list what material they use we can't compare it to the grade 80 steel EA uses. At half the weight I would suspect the EA grapple can't be as strong, even if the steel is significantly better, but user feedback sounds like it's strong enough that people are happy with it.

I'm leaning towards a 66" EA Wicked grapple for my 4047...I think the extra width will help with some of the brush piles I have (clearing land), but I'm still not 100% certain, and have nearly gone blind reading grapple threads!
 
   / ls 4047 grapple #14  
That's a tough question, because Wildkat doesn't list what material they use we can't compare it to the grade 80 steel EA uses. At half the weight I would suspect the EA grapple can't be as strong, even if the steel is significantly better, but user feedback sounds like it's strong enough that people are happy with it.

I'm leaning towards a 66" EA Wicked grapple for my 4047...I think the extra width will help with some of the brush piles I have (clearing land), but I'm still not 100% certain, and have nearly gone blind reading grapple threads!

ANY grapple is better than no grapple!. I am convinced that the tougher and lighter steel is a good thing in the EA grapples, because I haven't been able to tear mine up yet! I was using it yesterday to hold cedar logs up against a dirt/rock bank until I could drill holes in the log and pound in re-bar stakes. The logs will control erosion when I get some mulch behind them. I just would not have been able to do this without the grapple. I just set the brakes on the tractor while it was holding the logs from rolling down, until I could get them pinned. It was like having a giant friend helping me.
 
   / ls 4047 grapple #15  
ANY grapple is better than no grapple!. I am convinced that the tougher and lighter steel is a good thing in the EA grapples, because I haven't been able to tear mine up yet! I was using it yesterday to hold cedar logs up against a dirt/rock bank until I could drill holes in the log and pound in re-bar stakes. The logs will control erosion when I get some mulch behind them. I just would not have been able to do this without the grapple. I just set the brakes on the tractor while it was holding the logs from rolling down, until I could get them pinned. It was like having a giant friend helping me.

Ideas like that are what I love about TBN! I'm going to build a small (8x8' or so) backstop for a 200yd rifle range, and planned to use lengths of telephone poles to build a wall that I will backfill against, but wasn't sure how I would hold the poles in place for pinning them. Your idea would make it easy!
 
   / ls 4047 grapple #16  
Ideas like that are what I love about TBN! I'm going to build a small (8x8' or so) backstop for a 200yd rifle range, and planned to use lengths of telephone poles to build a wall that I will backfill against, but wasn't sure how I would hold the poles in place for pinning them. Your idea would make it easy!

Yup, you will need a grapple for that!.. it makes it "childs play" You have a big giant hand holding up the log or pole, and with a hydro transmission, you can get it exactly where you want it and stomp the brakes, let your ballast down, check alignment, and shut off the tractor. Get off and drill and stake. The grapple is great for building rock walls to.. just dump down so your grapple is looking straight down, grasp a big azzed rock and lift it straight up and move to where you want to set it on top of another rock, and gently let it down and let go.. it is pretty cool!
 
   / ls 4047 grapple
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Could someone give me all the fittings I will need for running the line off my rear remotes. This is my first tractor so I know very little about this stuff. do t want to buy the wrong ones. Looks like I will need a 90 coming out of the rear remote opening?
 
   / ls 4047 grapple #18  
Could someone give me all the fittings I will need for running the line off my rear remotes. This is my first tractor so I know very little about this stuff. do t want to buy the wrong ones. Looks like I will need a 90 coming out of the rear remote opening?

First things first.. you must decide if you are going to run 3/8 or 1/2 inch hydraulic hoses, I ran 1/2 inch NPT, but 3/8 would have been fine. They you need to decide if you are going to use NPT for JIC threaded fittings. Once you have decided that, then make a drawing starting at the 1/2 inch AG quick connects on the back of the tractor. Most of these quick connects will have 1/2 inch NPT threads. So you will need an 90 degree adapter to go to the threads that you choose. Then choose the quick connects at the break point at the loader frame, then consider how you are going to mount the connectors at the torque tube on your loader. I welded an L bracket to the crossover tube guard. Some just use tye-wraps and let them flop. You can look at my thread if you like, and there are many others.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-quick-connects-loader-torque.html?highlight=
 
   / ls 4047 grapple
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Have narrowed it down to the AE 50", AE 54, or the wildkat 48.
 
   / ls 4047 grapple #20  
Could someone give me all the fittings I will need for running the line off my rear remotes. This is my first tractor so I know very little about this stuff. do t want to buy the wrong ones. Looks like I will need a 90 coming out of the rear remote opening?


I just ran my hoses this past weekend. I used 1/2" 2 wire 3000 PSI hose. Here is a list of parts available at your local TSC store.
You will have to measure for the length hose you will need. I don't have any front hydraulic attachments yet just wanted to have the lines run for when I do. You can use 1/2" or 3/8" line but you have to bush the 3/8" hose up to 1/2" male pipe to fit the couplers.

My list
2- SKU# 1819884 - 168" (14') long 1/2" 2 wire 3000 PSI hose w/ male to male pipe each end
1 - 5006-4 - Double breakaway clamp with bracket to hold the front couplers
4 - SKU#1818626 - 1/2" male to 1/2" female swivel (or 1818105 1/2" male to 1/2" female 90's, your choice)
6 - SKU# 1824407 - VP4200-4 (or VP4000-4 your choice) 1/2" pioneer 3000 PSI coupler sets. (I bought some extra)
I also bought a 4' jumper hose I used to bleed the the lines. I can later use the 4' hose to connect to a front cylinder when I get something to install that needs hydraulics. I still have to get the rubber caps to plug in the couplers when not in use. They were out of stock.

I ran the lines under the tractor in between other lines and up to the front. I just used zip ties about every foot or so front to back. If your tractor is HST make sure you don't run the lines under where the pedals arms. I ran mine between the fwd and rev arms.
 

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