LT-155 No Start

[Dave M7040]

Since you bought this tractor used, it likely has had a battery replacement.

All too often people buy based upon price and end up with a battery without the cranking amps required by aging motors.

I know you said you used a booster pac but success with these in getting a good connection is marginal.

John Deere has this kit to help older tractors' safety switches not hinder solenoid engagement for some models.

Invest a few dollars in these marine battery terminals. Remove the large battery from your car or truck and using the marine terminals connect to your garden tractor.

If it starts fine, go and buy a new battery with the highest CA or CCA you can find.

Dave M7040

Dave M7040

 

[tomplum]

Not a lot of these break the spring on the cam, but it does happen. You won't really know until it is pulled apart. An option though is to put a feeler gauge ~ .015- .020 " in between the exhaust valve and tappet and see if it cranks better then. If so, points to the cam. CCA on the battery should be 250 or above.

 

[Richard001]

Unfortunately, these have hydraulic lifters. A failed ACR problem rests with the cam itself with a very outside chance of a lifter issue.

That maybe true, however, it depends on which head the engine has as to weather the valve lash is adjustable.
See this:

This a page from the service manual.

But I think you are mostly correct that there is an issue with the cam compression release.

Richard

 

[tomplum]

Yeah, they mention that in the manual. They also refer to models w/o an ACR. I've never seen either one myself.

 

[Red Horse]

Again guys thx for the comments. So I pulled the engine and hauled it to my pals shop (He has been featured on American Pickers-you can imagine!)

Hopefully this picture will upload. I guess spring broke and I was not getting the benefit of the ACR-coupled with a weak battery. As to comment on jump pac, I put my Craftsman on it and it didn't do much although it was reading I had 13V. after screwing around I brought my pick up around and jumped it with that at it spun like crazy, fired up and before I could pull it off choke and throttle down it backfired with a bang and that was it.

so 145 bucks for a new one-of course you need the gear and the camshaft! we found a used one on ebay for 45-due in Tuesday. Again.."stay tuned"

 

[beenthere]

Didn't quite follow your description of what happened.. If it backfired, then pull the flywheel and look for a sheared key. Just a guess, but when fixing a B&S engine last year with a broken/bent ACR spring and backfiring, the flywheel key was sheared.

 

[Richard001]

Yes, it's not clear to me either. The photo you attached, is that your engine on the bench?

Richard

 

[Red Horse]

Yes-that is the engine. And after the backfire, flywheel was still intact

 

[beenthere]

............ And after the backfire, flywheel was still intact

"still intact" ? what does that mean?

You maybe then didn't pull it off and look at the key. Just a slight movement of the flywheel on the crank shaft will cause the timing to be off.

Only trying to help.

 

[Richard001]

"still intact" ? what does that mean?

You maybe then didn't pull it off and look at the key. Just a slight movement of the flywheel on the crank shaft will cause the timing to be off.

Only trying to help.

Double what beenthere said. You need to pull off the flywheel and inspect the key.

Richard