Lubrication of the main lifting bolts

[FOURTEEN]

As mentioned earlier, to grease those 'ball' joints on the lift arms and steering arms, mix Amsoil Racing Grease with a little gasoline to the consistency of oil based paint. Brush on with a 1/2" paint brush while rotating the shafts. Because it is thin, it will carry the grease deep inside the joint where the gasoline soon evaporates, leaving a nice grease coating inside. No over spray! Easy to wipe up any excess! No gobs of grease on the garage floor, or the wash mitt when you wash your PT!!

Every 100 hours I remove all the large bolts, then coat the bolts and bores with Amsoil Racing Grease, and reassemble them being careful to not overtighten! The first time I found no wear, but there was discoloration and minor rust from OEM!

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[MossRoad]

<font color="blue"> So I guess I may be waiting to see if someone has tried drilling the bolts with a small hole and placing a zerk in them or replacing them with a greaseable pin. </font>

I had the same thoughts back in June(click here to read them). I haven't gotten around to it, but am still thinking about it.

How about some of you folks that use these in your businesses? Has there been any problems with these joints?

 

[NJBill]

JJ
I covered this situation in earlier posts. The bolts are supposed to be tight enough to prevent the inner sleeve from turning, this will now make the two parts of the ball type joint work one inside the other, and those are the parts which need the lubrication. I mentioned that I use a mixture similar to Fourteen, a good grease mixed with enough gasoline as a carrier to take the grease into the inner surfaces of the " ball ". the greater surface area of the two ball sections will carry the load for a considerably longer time than just the bolt. Ask any old timer about the many barrel shaped bolts they may have replaced in the past, when bolts carried the load.
Check it out. Bill

 

[Clarke]

Amen.. Even PT will tell you if you quiz them enough that the joint is designed to rotate about the ball. Terry says it really makes little difference and very little lube is necessary on these parts. I do enough maintenance on this machine and won't like removing the bolts to lube them..

sg

 

[blackwell]

We have a 1430 with over 3000 hrs with orgional ball bushings. Pins have been replaced twice at about 1200 hrs. Sprayed every 8 hrs with " Super Lube". It's much eaiser and less expensive to let the pin wear and replace it than to cut the ball bushing out and weld it back in. Be sure to keep the pin tight enough to prevent it from turning in the lugs which will wear the lugs too quickly.
EB

 

[stray]

thanks blackwell I bleave this is what we were looking for. And good thought about the lugs. woulding won't to be replacing those.

 

[FOURTEEN]

My primary objective in greasing the bolts is rust prevention!
That is why I grease my PT-425 AFTER I wash it, so as to drive out any water or dirt that may have been forced into the joints during the cleaning!

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[MossRoad]

<font color="blue"> That is why I grease my PT-425 AFTER I wash it, </font>

Me Too! That is the most important time to lube everything.

 

[jol1269]

now my question will be what do you use for the shims ...washers im guessing what size ...

 

[J_J]

You may have meant this post for someone else, as I do not use shims nor do I tighten bolts so tight as to restrict the ball joint from moving. It should move in both planes, mainly around the bolt.

This ball joint assembly is used in all 3pt situation, and nothing is ever tighten on the implement, as there is no bolt to tighten just a pin to hold the implement on. Both moving pieces should be lubricated. It has been this way forever.
Enough said