Lug nuts/bolts doing a Peter Pan

[Sean2202]

I had a similar problem last year on my Kioti RX 6010. The studs would break off just from the tractor sitting in one spot and not moved for days. The new factory same part number Kioti studs that I purchased were definitely different than the original studs on the tractor.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...95-kioti-rx6010-lug-nut-studs.html?highlight=

 

[ruffdog]

Metal standards not being followed worldwide? Gee....ya think? Good stuff costs more.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Saving the internet some time: the part number for rear-wheel stud for Kioti NX series tractors is T4340-27122

This part number is not listed in my 2014 parts book.

Meanwhile, tractor action.

 

[Threepoint]

Eric, nice job on the video removing the dead Jack Pines. :thumbsup:

I noticed you don't use a steering wheel spinner. I've put one on each of my tractors and found it really speeds up maneuvering, especially loader and grapple work. This is a pretty good one, made by Speeco for TSC's County Line private label: CountyLine Deluxe Wheel Spinner at Tractor Supply Co.

 

[JoelD]

Do not weld a wheel with tire on it. I think we’ve all seen those videos. Kaboom!

 

[PILOON]

I suffered that problem only it was the ring gear in my front differential.
The factory simply used metal tabs to act as locks.
That was a costly repair as I needed a ring and pinion set.

My solution was 'lock tight' and drilled heads with locking wire as in aviation practice.
That was 900 hours ago.

Front rims also suffered from oval holes but again no more. Locking wire to the rescue!

 

[koshari]

think yourself fortinate, often when you lose a stud or 2 on a wheel the remaining ones can shear or damage the hub.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Do not weld a wheel with tire on it. I think we’ve all seen those videos. Kaboom!

Good advice!

think yourself fortunate, often when you lose a stud or 2 on a wheel the remaining ones can shear or damage the hub.

Agreed. Since I was totally unaware of the issue, I feel fortunate about a neighbor walking through my property happened to notice the wheel and let me know before disaster struck.

I suffered that problem only it was the ring gear in my front differential.
The factory simply used metal tabs to act as locks.
That was a costly repair as I needed a ring and pinion set.

My solution was 'lock-tight' and drilled heads with locking wire as in aviation practice.
That was 900 hours ago.

Front rims also suffered from oval holes but again no more. Locking wire to the rescue!

I was an AH-1 tech (67Y30) in the Army and about the only residual skill I still use from those days is a well-developed sense of good safety wiring! The pre-drilled grade 10.9 bolts must have cost you a small fortune.