M59 Discussion Thread

[Piston]

The gauge wheel was handy before I broke it. It isn't built as sturdy as the rest of the backblade and both the wheel and fork it mounts to bent pretty easily going to deep into a dip and overloading it. Oops. :ashamed: The wheel can be replaced and the fork can be bent/welded for repair, but honestly once you get pretty good at using the 3pt height lever you can do just as well with out it, back up into tighter places and load onto a trailer much easier. Also zerks are covered by the bolt on portion of the gauge wheel frame. If you are doing a great big area like a parking lot it makes things easier, but on my place it is more of a hindrance.

Thanks for the info on the gauge wheel. I bought the skid shoes for my blade shortly after I got the blade, and those made a big difference, but I'd still like to try out gauge wheel for more of a "leveling" effect when going over varied terrain.

Nice grapple :thumbsup:

 

[Piston]

Tim,
How much did those round bales weigh?

 

[AZTimT]

The round bales averaged just under 1350 lbs each for the dozen on that load.

I find setting the backblade angled forward and slightly offset to one side or the other to be almost as effective as using the wheel since I usually have to make more than on pass for most work anyhow. The sharp angle cuts into and then across the uneven terrain (that my tires do not have to roll over this way) lengthwise to use the shaved highs to fill the lows in front of them kind of like a loaded box blade would. This simulates what the wheel does for you when the blade is straight across. Both work reasonably well, but one does not require messing with the wheel. The thing that helps most with the 3pt attachments is to make sure the side to side stabilizers are attached properly to the spots just inside the tires. This keeps the whole assembly from banging into the tires or hoe hooks as well as provides a smoother drag of blades.

 

[TBarD]

Which brings me to some problems I've been having. The TLB was base so there's no front or rear hydraulics. A week before I bought it I asked the dealer to see if they could source the kits but haven't had any luck. I know everythingattachments.com has a front kit, but how close is that to the factory? Does anyone know of a rear hydraulic kit?.

Wow, I've been away for a while and suddenly there are all these new M59 posts.

By rear hydraulic kit it isn't clear if you mean the rear auxiliary hydraulics or the optional hydraulic kit for the backhoe thumb, but kits should be available for both (assuming Kubota still makes them and has them in stock). When I installed the rear auxiliary hydraulics on my M59, I got the kit mail order from Coleman Equipment in Kansas, however any dealer that can get WholeGoods parts should be able to order them. The front remote valve kit is part TL2212, rear remotes are part L3995, and the remote valve kit for the backhoe thumb is BT3921. They are all pretty pricey, but very good quality in my experience.

I too am glad I got my M59 when one could still get a good diesel engine. I did the same, intentionally, when I got my truck. It is a 2007, one of the last made with the Cummins 5.9 diesel engine. Both the truck and tractor are real workhorses.

 

[Barracuda426]

Wow, I've been away for a while and suddenly there are all these new M59 posts.

By rear hydraulic kit it isn't clear if you mean the rear auxiliary hydraulics or the optional hydraulic kit for the backhoe thumb, but kits should be available for both (assuming Kubota still makes them and has them in stock). When I installed the rear auxiliary hydraulics on my M59, I got the kit mail order from Coleman Equipment in Kansas, however any dealer that can get WholeGoods parts should be able to order them. The front remote valve kit is part TL2212, rear remotes are part L3995, and the remote valve kit for the backhoe thumb is BT3921. They are all pretty pricey, but very good quality in my experience.

I too am glad I got my M59 when one could still get a good diesel engine. I did the same, intentionally, when I got my truck. It is a 2007, one of the last made with the Cummins 5.9 diesel engine. Both the truck and tractor are real workhorses.

TBarD,thanks for the model numbers. I was referring to the optional hydraulic kit for the backhoe thumb. Right now I'm not powering any rear implements, but there's no guarantee that won't happen in the future.

Which leads me to the next question(s). Should I go ahead and order the rear hydraulic kit too in case the kits get hard to find? Is there much use for it if you're not farming? The dealer came back with reasonable prices (compared to what I could find) for the kits, but the labor for the rear hydraulic kit, front hydraulic kit, and thumb was ~$1600. I realize it's labor intensive but with the WSM would this be something someone could do by themselves?

 

[TBarD]

TBarD,thanks for the model numbers. I was referring to the optional hydraulic kit for the backhoe thumb. Right now I'm not powering any rear implements, but there's no guarantee that won't happen in the future.

Which leads me to the next question(s). Should I go ahead and order the rear hydraulic kit too in case the kits get hard to find? Is there much use for it if you're not farming? The dealer came back with reasonable prices (compared to what I could find) for the kits, but the labor for the rear hydraulic kit, front hydraulic kit, and thumb was ~$1600. I realize it's labor intensive but with the WSM would this be something someone could do by themselves?

The rear auxiliary hydraulics are also very useful for a box blade, PTO mower, rear blade, chipper with power feed, snow blower, etc. If you think you might be needing any of those things in the future it is good to have. If that quote you got is for installing all three it may be worth it, particularly if they are giving you something off on the hardware as part of the bargain. The list price for these kits is quite pricey and it may be hard to pay less than list if they aren't making money by doing the install as well.

I installed the rear hydraulics myself and it wasn't all that hard, except for space being extremely tight since I didn't remove the right rear wheel. The install for the thumb valve is probably pretty easy since it just adds to the backhoe valve stack, although I haven't done it so I can't say for sure. On my M59 the hydraulics for the thumb were in and I just had to install the thumb, which is easy once you get the pin out. The hydraulic lines for the front aux hydraulics route under the floor and through the left loader arm. If those lines are already installed (do base tractors come that way?) then the install probably isn't hard, but if the lines have to be run and routed through the loader arm it could start to add up. All or part of the loader control stick will need to be replaced as well as this is where the control buttons for the front auxiliary hydraulics go. If you can get a good deal and it is a good shop, it is probably worthwhile to have them do it. You probably don't need the WSM as the kits come with (terse) instructions, but it is good to have the WSM in any case.

 

[Barracuda426]

The rear auxiliary hydraulics are also very useful for a box blade, PTO mower, rear blade, chipper with power feed, snow blower, etc. If you think you might be needing any of those things in the future it is good to have. If that quote you got is for installing all three it may be worth it, particularly if they are giving you something off on the hardware as part of the bargain. The list price for these kits is quite pricey and it may be hard to pay less than list if they aren't making money by doing the install as well.

I installed the rear hydraulics myself and it wasn't all that hard, except for space being extremely tight since I didn't remove the right rear wheel. The install for the thumb valve is probably pretty easy since it just adds to the backhoe valve stack, although I haven't done it so I can't say for sure. On my M59 the hydraulics for the thumb were in and I just had to install the thumb, which is easy once you get the pin out. The hydraulic lines for the front aux hydraulics route under the floor and through the left loader arm. If those lines are already installed (do base tractors come that way?) then the install probably isn't hard, but if the lines have to be run and routed through the loader arm it could start to add up. All or part of the loader control stick will need to be replaced as well as this is where the control buttons for the front auxiliary hydraulics go. If you can get a good deal and it is a good shop, it is probably worthwhile to have them do it. You probably don't need the WSM as the kits come with (terse) instructions, but it is good to have the WSM in any case.

It appears they're not discounting anything. I called Messicks and they quoted me the exact same prices as the dealer for the BT3921 ($1752), TL2212 ($995), and BT4599 ($2140). The dealer also put AW46 hyd oil in the quote instead of UDT2. Not sure how much I trust that.

Is there any way someone could post pictures of the install manuals for any of the hydraulic kits (BT3921 / Tl2212 / L3995)? I'm curious as to what needs to be added or replaced for each kit (i.e. does one piggyback off another or do they all plug in to the hydraulic system at separate points).

 

[TBarD]

It appears they're not discounting anything. I called Messicks and they quoted me the exact same prices as the dealer for the BT3921 ($1752), TL2212 ($995), and BT4599 ($2140). The dealer also put AW46 hyd oil in the quote instead of UDT2. Not sure how much I trust that.

Is there any way someone could post pictures of the install manuals for any of the hydraulic kits (BT3921 / Tl2212 / L3995)? I'm curious as to what needs to be added or replaced for each kit (i.e. does one piggyback off another or do they all plug in to the hydraulic system at separate points).

They plug into the hydraulic system at separate points; the service manual should have details on each subsystem. The rear auxiliary hydraulics assembly is inserted into the power beyond circuit just behind the rubber flap for the backhoe disconnects on the right rear (when done, the power beyond flow goes through the new valves and then on to where it went before, i.e., 3pt lift and backhoe). The valve for the backhoe thumb is just added on the right side of the backhoe valve stack. The front auxiliary hydraulics are controlled by an electrically actuated valve just inside the vertical loader frame on the right side, close to the main hydraulic pump. I haven't checked but I am sure it ties into the hydraulic flow at or near the main pump, probably in series with the loader. Ultimately it is all one hydraulic circuit, i.e., main pump, loader and front auxiliary, then power beyond to the rear auxilaries, 3pt and backhoe, excluding the hoe swing circuit which has its own pump, then return to the tank. But the hydraulic lines run all over the tractor. The kits should include everything required to end up with what one would have if it were installed at the factory.

 

[rScotty]

It's coming up on maintenance time for the M59. Now at 800 hours and no real problems.

So far what I've been using for engine oil has been Rotella T 15w-40 and New Holland GL-134 trans/hydraulic. The latter because of a bad experience with the SUDT.
The Rotella and NH oils I'm using were the recommendations of the dealer and I've stayed with them. But times and technology does change; I've been doing some research

For winter I always use a block heater and let it idle for awhile until the trans/hydraulic oil warms up as well. Overall the tractor sees light to medium duty work. I tend to run it around 1400 rpm.

Expecting colder weather and somewhat harder work this next year I'm considering a change to different oils.

Right now I'm leaning towards Mobil 1 synthetic oil - their latest turbo diesel synthetic with the CH/I/J ratings. Synthetics have been out for awhile now and all the reports I hear are favorable.
And for the trans/hydraulic I am thinking of switching to John Deere's Hy-Gard 303. I use it in the rest of my machines and it has always performed well. It would be nice to just stock one type in the barn.

What do you think of those choices? What do the rest of you use?
Luck beats Planning most times....
rScotty

 

[TBarD]

I'm using Rotella 15W-40 for engine oil in both the M59 and my truck, and SUDT2 for hydraulic fluid in the M59. The hydraulic pump in the M59 will rattle for a while with a cold start, but never enough that I have been worried enough to do anything about it. I have never used the tractor in really cold weather however; if I did I might want to try a synthetic engine oil. I think that Rotella also has a synthetic oil as well but I don't have any information on how it compares to Mobile 1. The main advantage of the 5W synthetic would seem to be for a cold weather start; after the engine warms up I doubt if it would make much difference. If you do try it, be sure to tell us how well it worked for you!