Tires M7060 & rear wheel offsets

[Tx Jim]

Hey Tx Jim ! You misunderstood. Ovrszd did NOT suggest anything related to changing the direction of the tread (!) .

I made a mistake mentioning Ovrszd as it was TxBoy that mentioned reversing tires on wheels which is a waste of time. Thanks for heads up on correct direction of travel of cleat tractors tires but I've been aware of that for over 50 yrs. I've seen cleat type tractor tires reversed direction to help lessen wear when traveling a lot on roads with pavement or concrete.

 

[KWentling]

Aren't the valve stems now on the inside with wheels set wider?

That's the position mine are at, and yes, the valve stems are inside.

 

[oosik]

Yes - in the diagrams in my Owners Manual - four of the eight positions would be with the valve stems on the inside. This would also mean the tire would have to be reversed on the rims. If you wanted the - "chevron rolling forward" setting.

 

[ovrszd]

Yes - in the diagrams in my Owners Manual - four of the eight positions would be with the valve stems on the inside. This would also mean the tire would have to be reversed on the rims. If you wanted the - "chevron rolling forward" setting.

This was just talked about above. The tire is never removed from the rim for correct rotation on any of the settings. They are simply moved side to side.

 

[TexasBoy]

 

[Tx Jim]

TexasBoy comparing photo's of your tractor's rear wheel tread & herkypilots tractor rear wheel tread the latter is wider. Plus your tractor wheels valve stem are outside & his are inside which makes a difference in location of mounting brackets on the rims. Relocating valve stem from outside to inside makes a lot of difference in wheel tread spacing.

 

[TexasBoy]

Like I was trying to convey earlier, the only way to get the setup the other fella has, is to removed the R1 tire from the wheel, and turn it around with the lugs going the other way.

 

[Tx Jim]

Like I was trying to convey earlier, the only way to get the setup the other fella has, is to removed the R1 tire from the wheel, and turn it around with the lugs going the other way.

One doesn't have to remove tire from wheel to widen wheel tread. Where are you getting this incorrect information? I'll guess incorrect info is coming from an uninformed dealer. All one has to do is relocate present RH tire/wheel to LH side then vice-verse with other tire/wheel. Then valve stem will go from outside wheel to inside the wheel. BTDT several times in 21 yrs I was employed at a tractor dealership

 

[TexasBoy]

One doesn't have to remove tire from wheel to widen wheel tread. Where are you getting this incorrect information? I'll guess incorrect info is coming from an uninformed dealer. All one has to do is relocate present RH tire/wheel to LH side then vice-verse with other tire/wheel. Then valve stem will go from outside wheel to inside the wheel. BTDT several times in 21 yrs I was employed at a tractor dealership

Sir, its not my goal to quarrel with anyone online and Im not going to go back and forth with you. Please feel free to come to whatever conclusions work for you.

Cheers.

 

[Tx Jim]

Sir I'm not attempting to quarrel with you BUT explain what I know is true from yrs of pre-delivery inspections aka PDI (preparing new tractors for new owners) while employed at a tractor/equipment dealership. Changing tire direction on rims is an unnecessary expense to widen rear tread width. Believe ALL the incorrect information you desire to because I will not reply to another one of your posts again.
I hope you have a very pleasant day,Jim

 

[KWentling]

Tx Jim is exactly right. I had this same discussion with the salesman about changing my wheel spacing. It took him a minute to see the light too.

 

[oosik]

Unfortunately, on my agriculture tire/rim combination I would have to reverse the tires on the rims to get all eight positions. This would be with the chevrons all running in the same direction.

Reason being - the attachment point on the disk is only changed by disk dished in - disk dished out. Then tabs mounted on the inside or outside of the disk. There are four alternate attachment positions for the tabs on the rims because the tabs are offset. To get the last four positions the rim must be reversed and the tire remounted on the rim.

I went out and verified this - looking at my tire/rim combination.

If your tabs on your rims were dead center on the rims - you would have only four alternate widths and there would be no reason to remount the tires.

 

[TexasBoy]

Tx Jim is exactly right. I had this same discussion with the salesman about changing my wheel spacing. It took him a minute to see the light too.

As I explained earlier in this thread, with the raised boss on one side of the tabs limits the options you can do. This is the point many are missing. As the tractor sits now, we did indeed take the left tire and move it to the right and the right to the left. And doing so gained us what appears to be a bit over 2" on each side. But that raised area on the one side of the tab limits how many options you get without taking the tire off the rim and moving it the other direction. That raised area cannot be put against the wheel center.

 

[TexasBoy]

Unfortunately, on my agriculture tire/rim combination I would have to reverse the tires on the rims to get all eight positions. This would be with the chevrons all running in the same direction.

Reason being - the attachment point on the disk is only changed by disk dished in - disk dished out. Then tabs mounted on the inside or outside of the disk. There are four alternate attachment positions for the tabs on the rims because the tabs are offset. To get the last four positions the rim must be reversed and the tire remounted on the rim.

I went out and verified this - looking at my tire/rim combination.

If your tabs on your rims were dead center on the rims - you would have only four alternate widths and there would be no reason to remount the tires.

Finally someone get its. LOL

And due to this fact that the tabs are not centered, trying to put the dish out on my wheels would put the raised boss towards the wheel center and you cannot do that.

 

[oosik]

I mentioned all eight varying widths is post#4. I just didn't mention that the tire would have to be remounted in four of those positions.

Texas Boy - the picture in your post#33. My tabs don't have that raised area where the bolts are. I would loose four width positions if mine had that raised area. Like you indicated - I wouldn't trust placing that raised area, only, up against the center disk either. The entire tab itself is a small contact area - the raised boss area is just too small.

If it were really important you could unmount the tire - scrape off the orange paint - weld on a "C" shaped chunk and bring the tab to the full height of the boss.

I wonder how much $$$ they saved by doing it that way. It would have been just as easy to make the tab full thickness.

 

[Tx Jim]

TexasBoy
I apologize. It's difficult to teach an old dog such as I new tricks! I'm still trying to envision in my pea size brain how changing tire cleat direction on rim is any different than switching sides with tire/wheel
Jim

 

[TexasBoy]

Texas Boy - the picture in your post#33. My tabs don't have that raised area where the bolts are. I would loose four width positions if mine had that raised area. Like you indicated - I wouldn't trust placing that raised area, only, up against the center disk either. The entire tab itself is a small contact area - the raised boss area is just too small.

Yes sir, that was my only point from the very beginning. I simply cannot put the dish out with these tabs not flat on both sides. It would not make a secure mating surface for the two parts of the entire wheel assembly and would be a weak-link. (and no doubt eventually fail) For this reason, we only did the left-to-right & right-to-left switch that gained me what seems to be about 5" overall wider stance. I would love to have the setup like Herkypilot but do not want to dismount the tires off the wheels on a brand new machine. If the time comes someday that I have a flat and there is a need to pull a tire off, I may go ahead and do it at that time.

You're right, really makes you wonder what Kubota was thinking making that tab in that configuration.

 

[TexasBoy]

TexasBoy
I apologize. It's difficult to teach an old dog such as I new tricks! I'm still trying to envision in my pea size brain how changing tire cleat direction on rim is any different than switching sides with tire/wheel
Jim

No worries sir, Im an old dog too and we scratched our heads and pondered this for quite some time too there in the dealers shop.

 

[ovrszd]

I contend, if the raised block on the rim tab prohibits the rim from being mounted in the outmost position, which would be offset out, rim fastened outside of disk, it is irrelevant which way the tire is mounted. That position would not be available to you. Removing the tire and reversing it would accomplish nothing. When tires are mounted the only concern is that they are mounted in reverse direction of each other. Nothing else matters.

Using the picture posted above, forgetting tire rotation, study the evidence. Note the raised block on the rim tab. Note that his are mounted with that tab away from the center disk. So, in this conversation they are mounted correctly. With this same study of the picture, note that you cannot ever mount the rim in the farthest outward position on the center disk without this becoming a problem. Regardless of whether a tire is mounted or not. The picture posted is a perfect reference because our view is not confused by the tire mounted direction. Great picture for this discussion.

Here's a couple pics showing my current setting. Rim outward, mounted to inside of center disk. This positions the raised block away from the center disk. I mounted in this position to get the width I needed/wanted. Again remember, we don't care about the tire concerning the raised block discussion. Removing and reversing accomplishes nothing.






I'm attaching a pic from my owner's manual. It clearly shows the rim mounted in it's widest position, on the outside of the center disk, as being the farthest outward setting. So,,,, it appears the manufacturer is saying it doesn't have a negative effect to mount the raised block on the rim tab against the center disk??

No argument here, just discussion. Hard to dispute the facts of the pictures posted so far.

Again, remember one thing. When a pair of directional tires are mounted on a pair of rims there's only one standard the MUST be met. They need to be mounted in opposite directions from each other. After that nothing at all matters. And they never need removed and reversed for any reason. Proof of that is in this manual picture. No where does it mention tire rotation direction. Doesn't apply.

 

[JWR]

Without a dog in this fight, I think that a very long and complete case has been made for never buying cast iron centers. Ordinary steel wheels have none of these oddball problems and restrictions. Fill the rear tires with liquid, use plain steel wheels, and forget all this. Isn't Kubota about the only one with this crazy circumstance? I do not recall New Holland, Deere or Massey having cast iron centers for weight (?)

Oh by the way, this is one more nail in the Kubota coffin illustrating that the Japanese, Kubota in particular, simply do not understand that people who operate on steep ground need to spread the wheels wider than Kubota allows. Worse on their smaller machines than this M9040 example.

The overszd manual page above agrees exactly with what I found on the dealer lots (using tape measures and calculations) when shopping for a tractor last round. The M9540 widest stance is 75.6" Add the tire width using 18" tires and you get ~ 84 inch best case width between outside edges. I run my MF2660 wheels such that the outside edges of the tires are 96" apart all the time, which I find nearly ideal. There is about another 12" spread available on the Massey with various wheel configurations that I have not used because of trailering limitations, etc. But the flexibility is there.