GeneV
Elite Member
Also Home Machinist.
Machining metal parts
- Thread starter 3Ts
- Start date
GeneV
Elite Member
Thems some big drills, what you doing with them?
What wore out on the drill dr, you mean the chuck as it rides against the cam? What I do notice is that the 2 grabber thingies don't always align the drill bit properly (and yes I am making sure they're sitting on the flat sides of the drill), and when I'm grinding I'm getting negative relief. So I just loosen the chuck and realign the drill bit slightly by hand to get it grinding proper.
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Those are big morse taper drills, and they belong in a big Cincinnati Bickford radial arm drill press! BTDT!
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Maybe if they'd put a cubic boron nitride wheel in a drill doctor, it might help.
sandman2234
Super Member
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- 5,835
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- Jacksonville, Florida
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- JD2555 and a few Allis Chalmers and now one Kubota
Versatility, that always helps! To quote a guy on a different forum, when discussing a Fray All Position Mill, "it has more moves than a hoochie dancer". I had one I gave to a very good friend because he was using a 3 in 1 machine. It had it's issues with the 30 International taper and the missing backgears (I had a set to send with it). He has made it a quite a machine by adding digital readouts and power axis.
I have another machine, a Maho 600P that is a point to point CNC machine, but it's advantage is it has handles! A Universal machine, with horizontal and vertical capabilities, along with a vertical bed, with a horizontal attachment for a horizontal bed. Power for this might be a issue, but I also have a transformer for it to get it to a more available power supply.
Wonder if 3Ts wants to make a trip halfway across the US for a mill that would do most anything he could ever want it to do? Weight in the neighborhood of 5500 pounds, won't be an easy trip home. Probably a lot cheaper than a Bridgeport (which is the one I use)
How many of you would consider a mill like this for a newbie? It was part of a shop sellout that I purchased, but have never used. The shop purchased it from an AT&T research lab, to do a single job, which was to make a "one off" part, just one time. Wear isn't something it has...
David from jax
I have another machine, a Maho 600P that is a point to point CNC machine, but it's advantage is it has handles! A Universal machine, with horizontal and vertical capabilities, along with a vertical bed, with a horizontal attachment for a horizontal bed. Power for this might be a issue, but I also have a transformer for it to get it to a more available power supply.
Wonder if 3Ts wants to make a trip halfway across the US for a mill that would do most anything he could ever want it to do? Weight in the neighborhood of 5500 pounds, won't be an easy trip home. Probably a lot cheaper than a Bridgeport (which is the one I use)
How many of you would consider a mill like this for a newbie? It was part of a shop sellout that I purchased, but have never used. The shop purchased it from an AT&T research lab, to do a single job, which was to make a "one off" part, just one time. Wear isn't something it has...
David from jax
GeneV
Elite Member
To locate center, you mean? I mean, unless you're really needing 0.0001" tolerance!
I just use a wiggler edge finder to locate center. Cheap little tool, super easy to use, and is definitely accurate enough for my purposes.
wdchyd
Elite Member
Those are used on several good sized engine lathes. The 5MT will fit the larger 26x120, 20hp. The 4MT works for the 21x60 15hp CNC lathe. Used mainly for opening up solid stock to make glands and collars before boring/threading etc.
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MickeyDBC
Gold Member
If you think the Fray is complicated, take a look at a Brown and Sharpe Ominversal (especially with the optional vertical head). I think it has something like 9 axis that can get out of whack. You can do almost anything with it if you have six months to set them up.
MickeyDBC
Gold Member
If you think that a coax is cool, take a look at a Haimer gauge. It will quickly you find your X, Y, and Z within half a thou. Next best thing to a Renishaw probe (they will repeat tenths all day long and auto calibrate).
newbury
Super Star Member
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Well I found this thread extremely interesting.
My Father was a "master" machinist at IBM Burlington in the 1960', 70's and '80's would frequently make "special" parts, but he did not "bring his work" home so to speak.
But he did leave me with a love of good tools.
OP - in your quest for tools do not overlook public surplus auctions. Often schools will sell good equipment at very low cost.
I got all the woodworking equipment on the left for $800. The Kubota M4700 tractor cost $11,500.
All the woodworking equipment was "excessed" in good condition because the school needed to use the space for a computer lab.
You have to be able to tell if the equipment has been abused, but often it hasn't.
Currently there is a Bridgeport Mill Machine for auction in Ann Arbor, MI with bidding up to $500, condition listed as "GOOD".
good luck
My Father was a "master" machinist at IBM Burlington in the 1960', 70's and '80's would frequently make "special" parts, but he did not "bring his work" home so to speak.
But he did leave me with a love of good tools.
OP - in your quest for tools do not overlook public surplus auctions. Often schools will sell good equipment at very low cost.
Attachments
I got all the woodworking equipment on the left for $800. The Kubota M4700 tractor cost $11,500.
All the woodworking equipment was "excessed" in good condition because the school needed to use the space for a computer lab.
You have to be able to tell if the equipment has been abused, but often it hasn't.
Currently there is a Bridgeport Mill Machine for auction in Ann Arbor, MI with bidding up to $500, condition listed as "GOOD".
good luck