Made my decision - got the 7610

fishdoc · May 11, 2004

Excellent choice....... It is not overkill....... you never know when that extra size and power makes a job easier. I only have 3 acres to maintain but I've been out to friends places 3 times and have more projects in the future..... lots of fun.

Richard

khd · May 11, 2004

I guess I'm the next one in the 7610 club. Shook hands last Friday and waiting for it to get delivered, hopefully by this Friday.

I went with the 7610 as the price diff from the 7510 made it well worth the extra HP. Got it, fel, rear aux hyd, 60" Rhino BB and will pull my woods 60" rfm and Rhino rear blade.

What amazed me most was I traded my 17 year old JD 755 that I bought 2 years ago and the dealer offered me only $8.00 less than what I paid for it. Not bad for two years of dependable service. I guess that is testiment to how cuts retain value once you get past the "off the dealers lot" depreciation hit.

Verdemont · May 11, 2004

A few more questions if I could:

1. I currently have a Sears 25HP GT5000 garden tractor. My wife and I can't decide whether to keep it (for smaller uses) or sell it. I'm guessing we just won't use it at all. Has anyone had the same issue? I'm guessing I'm not the only one with a GT that then got a RT (real tractor).

2. Filled tires. Local dealer said it's really not needed. I went with the R4 tires. He said they are normally filled with either washer fluid or calcium chloride. True? Any words of wisdom here?

3. Block heater. I'm seen a lot of pro and con's. I live in Colorado at almost 8K elevation. I'll only use the tractor in the winter for snow removal. Is the block heater worth the $$ and the installation $$.

4. Foldable ROPS: My tractor has this but I don't understand the benefits of the foldable versus the non.

5. Engine break in? Is there anything special to consider? I'm guessing the dealer will mention it on Wed (tomorrow!) when it is delivered.

One of the reasons I was considering the 7800 was it would be big enough to do side jobs for $$ to help offset the cost of the tractor. However, my insurance agent told me I'd have to get a separate policy if I'm hiring myself out. Else, the tractor is covered under my homeowners. Thus, I decided not to pursue that. However, I'd still like to do sidejobs "in the neighborhood" for $$$. Anyone else do this? I mean, make up a few small signs and tack them up at major crossroads in the local area?

Thanks,

Tom

Bird · May 11, 2004

1. ( Sears 25HP GT5000 garden tractor )

Unless I overlooked something, your original post didn't say anything about getting a mower with the tractor. If you did get something to mow the yard with, I'd get rid of the garden tractor (that's what I did) and do any tight spot trimming with a string trimmer.

2. ( Filled tires )

They just add weight which adds traction. Don't know whether you need it or not. Calcium is highly corrosive if you ever have leaks, but has been used for many years by lots of people. I used anti-freeze and water, and now the Rim Guard sounds pretty good to me.

3. ( Block heater )

I live in Texas; never had or needed one. The tractor will probably start alright without it, but it does reduce engine wear to some extent and warm-up time in cold weather. If I lived where you do, I'd definitely have a block heater.

4. ( Foldable ROPS )

No advantage for me, so I didn't have one, but it's necessary if you ever put a little backhoe on the tractor, and it's sometimes needed if the solid ROPS is too tall to fit through your garage door and/or under low tree limbs and such.

5. ( Engine break in? )

You're manual is going to say something about not running at full throttle the first 50 hours. In my opinion, don't worry about it. "Full throttle" is a couple of hundred RPM less than PTO speed. Break it in the way you're going to use it. I wouldn't set out to run 8 hours non-stop at PTO speed for the first 50 hours, but just go ahead and use the tractor. Just vary the RPM a bit for the first 50 hours or so.

Henro · May 11, 2004

Tom,

I was going to get rid of my MTD garden tractor but decided to keep it and I am glad I did. I use it to pull a small cart and use it for little things where I don't need a larger tractor. THis saves wear and tear on the diesel enging. Makes me feel good knowing I have not started my diesel for a five minute job...

You can fill the tires yourself later if you want. The added weight can help on slopes and when using the loader, but will also help the tractor dig into your lawn...The R4s on my B2910 punctured easily and I ended up foam filling them (having it done) and that was a good move for me.

What are the cons of a block heater besides having to pay for it? It is a cheap instal and I think well worth having if you have any question in your mind. I am VERY glad I have one. It makes ME feel better every time I start my tractors in below freezing weather.

The foldable ROPS is required for use with a backhoe on some tractors. Some people need the folding option to get their tractors in a garage. I have never folded the rops on my B2910 and never will as far as I can see. I don't like the extra height, but I live with it. If there is a backhoe (or low door opening)in your future you should get the foldable rops I guess. Otherwise, non folding is a bit lower and better if you have low tree brances to get under.

THe engine breakin IS something to consider. I think in both cases with my tractors the rule was not to run full PTO rpm for the first 50 hours. On my B2910 I ran the first 10 hours at under 1800 RPM (can't remember exactly) and then bumped up 100 rpm each 10 hours afterwards until I got to 50. I might have went overboard on that but if made ME feel good...that's what it's all about, right?

You have to be very careful about using the tractor for $$$. Remember the world we live in today. You will not be covered insurance wise if you use the tractor off your property (I assume). I am VERY concerned with using my tractor just to help someone for no money, just to be nice. I want to do it, but probably will not just for liability reasons. You just never know. What if you hit an underground utility some how, or a gas meter hidden in the brush, or whatever you can dream up? Things happen and people can change and you never know how something might turn out if some accidental damage is done...

That being said, I personally am still going to take the chance to help a VERY good friend with his driveway this summer. But it will be for free and I am willing to take the risk of something negative coming out of it (which I seriously doubt will happen).

Yankee · May 11, 2004

2. ( Filled tires )

My dealer said he always fills tires on tractors sold with a loader for safety reasons. No loader, perhaps no need.

4. ( Foldable ROPS )

Another consideration is a canopy. A foldable ROPS is higher, i.e., a canopy won't be as effective.

As far as tree limbs go, that partly depends on how you mow and landscape. I bought a rear mower so as to be able to back it under low branches and such. Alternatively, you can mulch or have planting beds around trees to avoid mowing under them. If you have grass under the trees AND a MMM AND branches at a height that will otherwise allow the tractor to pass, get the foldable ROPS or you're going to be out there pushing a mower.

Remember, however, that while the height difference between the ROPS folded and the ROPS up is significant, the difference between the height of the rigid ROPS and the foldable ROPS when down isn't as great. My conclusion was that on a small tractor a foldable would only make sense for me if I had to go through a low door, like on a shed. I think the arguments for them are more compelling on larger tractors.

Bill

Golfgar4 · May 11, 2004

( One of the reasons I was considering the 7800 was it would be big enough to do side jobs for $$ to help offset the cost of the tractor. However, my insurance agent told me I'd have to get a separate policy if I'm hiring myself out. Else, the tractor is covered under my homeowners. Thus, I decided not to pursue that. However, I'd still like to do sidejobs "in the neighborhood" for $$$. Anyone else do this? I mean, make up a few small signs and tack them up at major crossroads in the local area?
)

Tom,

First, I would say that you should NEVER consider doing work for anyone off your property, whether for $$$ or just 'cause you're such a nice guy /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif, without some kind of insurance. I agree with Bill, you need to remember what it's like out there with everyone so quick to sue each other.

That said, you might check a little closer in to the kind of insurance you can get. I may be mistaken, but I believe that there are two basic types of insurance that you would consider for this kind of work.

The first would be contractor's insurance, which would be the more expensive of the two. This coverage applies to operations that will break the surface of the ground, such as with a backhoe or a post hole digger. It is the most expensive because of the possibility of hitting buried utilites.

The second type of coverage is called landscaper's insurance. This type is generally less expensive than the contractor's because the work being performed is only surface work.

Now there might be different names for these kinds of polices, but I think generally speaking these are the basic differences. Maybe an insurance agent can provide a little more insight for you.

Regardless, I still would recommend that you not consider doing any kind of work for anyone without some kind of coverage.

Hope this helps, and good luck. I'd be interested in hearing what you find out about the insurance situation if you decide to investigate it further. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Poppa · May 11, 2004

Tom, I have a few things to add. I know you thought you probably would NOT be using the tractor off property for money but you might for helping someone for free. From this site I learned about the Farm Bureau. They sell insurance and it is available to nearly anyone. I qualify so you must to. They were able to set me up with an all-perils policy that essentially covered the tractor for on my property and off for about 50 bucks a year. Liability you have to get someother way. Anyway, here is a link CO FB

As far as filling tires, I have opted not to at this time although, if you find a place that will fill them with foam here in CO, that is one option I am definitely interested in so let me know if you do.

I kept my ancient garden tractor mostly cause it is only worth a couple of hundred dollars and "Someday" I might fix it up /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Yeah sure, I am going to give up seat time to wrestle with that thing again. Anyway I am keeping it.

Block heater. I didn't get it. Course I am only at 6500 feet /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif But, I figured if I needed the tractor in the winter it would be in the garage anyway. so it would only be about twenty five degrees, not that cold. I have a block heater on my diesel truck but I have started it at ten below without using the heater and it started just fine. Of course I let it warm up for about a half an hour before I even thought about moving it. And she does run rough at first. My dealer wanted 150 for the heater. I thought that was a little high and wasn't sure I wanted it anyway so I passed. If you can work out a deal on yours then I would proabably do it.

Foldable ROPS. got it on the B7800 mostly for the mid PTO and because right now I need it to get it into the garage. The new Barn door will make it a moot question. From what I understand the biggest problem with foldable ROPS is remembering if it is up or down PRIOR to entering the garage /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

have fun

Mike

Yankee · May 11, 2004

(Since several of you priced comparable 7800 and 7610s at the same dealer, I'd be interested in the price difference between them. )

The difference at my dealer was $1,850 (pricing the 7800 with foldable ROPS and mid-PTO, which is the only way they order them).

Bill

TresCrows · May 11, 2004

I don't have filled tires and use my loader alot. I mount my boxblade if I am going to do some real work. I would keep the Sears mower for cutting around trees and in close and then jump on the 7610 and do the remainder. The 7610 with R4 tires will do well on most grass but if you insist on turning real tight in the same places overr and over it will damage the grass --as in circling trees etc. You will just have to keep that in mind if you sell the Sears unit. The foldable ROPS--hmmm--don't need one so I don't got one. Some houses have small garages--some yards have trees with very low hanging branches so I guess it would help there. Trailering it would help also. J