Mahidra 2555 HST power steering control valve leak.

[RAHarden]

I received the new seals/O-rings yesterday. I reassembled the PSU late in the afternoon. I ended up purchasing Viton seals/O-rings. I went back with the quad ring seal. I had called, sent emails, pictures and measurements to four different seal companies that had tech departments, that were to advise and offer a different seal type, other than the quad ring. No one ever got back to me, except one person. Very disappointing. That company wanted $300 to start the design process and more money as they worked on this. He said this could cost up to $1000 and he could not guarantee success. I decided to try Viton. It has a higher temp rating and it's got other good properties over Buna rubber. I'll install the PSU this morning and then see if it leaks. I'll write back and inform you of my success or failure.

Well good news. No leaks and the power steering works just fine. It took a good hour to install the PSU in the tractor. It went back together easier than it came apart. It's really not a bad job, once you've done it. I drove the tractor around my driveway and set the steering wheel the way I like it and tightened the nut. All done and happy. I don't know how long it will last, but for now, it's dry. I'll post my parts receipt on my post. All the parts/seals together were less than $27. A whole bunch cheaper than a new PSU.

If anyone needs any help in rebuilding their PSU, please contact me. As long as the PSU is in good condition, a few seals and O-rings should make it like new again.

Caution!!! I had to drill the hub of the steering wheel so I could use my puller. My SW didn't have threaded holes for the puller bolts. Don't beat on the SW to remove it or you may cause damage to the PSU. A bearing puller, placed under the SW will work also, if you have one. I didn't.
I added the parts receipt for general information. I ordered two seals for the 22x30x5 seal. They didn't offer these seals in x5, only x4 or x6, so I bought one of each. Both of these seals have the double lip, with the lip spring. The original did not have the lip spring. It was a cheaply made seal. I used the 22x30x6 seal. It fit fine. I also ordered three quad rings, just to have extras and I received nine of the small O-rings, but you only need four of these. I don't know why they send nine, but they are inexpensive. All these seals and O-rings fit fine. When I assembled the PSU, I had to heat the housing. I used an industrial electric heat gun. I got it hot enough where I had to use gloves to handle it. The spool did not want to fit inside the housing. Tight clearances! The heat did the trick. Don't force this. You could cause galling. Also, be sure you install the quad into the seal fit, inside the housing before you insert the spool. It should stay in place. Mine did. Don't install the quad ring on the steering shaft and then into the housing. It will not fit and you will damage the seal. I lubed the spool shaft and inserted it through the quad ring. I then placed the PSU in a large vise, shaft side down for final assembly. Be sure the impeller seal is facing the end cover of the PSU and all of the larger O-rings are installed. There is a small spacer button that must be installed in the impeller drive opening. Don't forget this! I installed and torqued the four bolts that hold the PSU together, to 30 foot pounds. Make sure these bolts have the copper washers on them. The cooper crushes and that seals the bolts, which keeps them from leaking out the bolt head. My washers were fine and I used them again. The only cleaning I did to the PSU before assembly was a clean, lint free rag and air. Watch for black paint chips! I used some of the drained off PSU oil for seal lubricant during assembly. After I fully assembled and torqued the four bolts, I inserted a 3/8" Allen wrench in the steering wheel shaft and checked to see it turned. My PSU turned fine, no binding. Ready to install. I did not prime the PSU. Good luck!

 

[TractorNH]

RAHarden, AWESOME write up. I don't know if the steering valve in the 2555 is the same in my 2655 (I suspect it is) but regardless I want to say THANK YOU! The research and effort you put into documenting all of this will no doubt save people a bunch of money.

 

[RAHarden]

RAHarden, AWESOME write up. I don't know if the steering valve in the 2555 is the same in my 2655 (I suspect it is) but regardless I want to say THANK YOU! The research and effort you put into documenting all of this will no doubt save people a bunch of money.

Thank you TractorNH. I think it's ridiculous that Mahindra doesn't offer a seal kit for the PSU and they expect the owner to just purchase a new one. I have put eight hours on my 2555 since the PSU rebuild and no leaks. The steering works fine.

 

[Masempine]

I knew you could do it RAH. My tractor is still leak free with replacement PSU but I haven't put many hours on it. I definitely dont grab steering wheel to climb on board.

 

[RAHarden]

I knew you could do it RAH. My tractor is still leak free with replacement PSU but I haven't put many hours on it. I definitely dont grab steering wheel to climb on board.

Hi there Masempine. My PSU is doing well. No leaks at this time and I have put around 40 hours on it since I did the PSU rebuild. The steering works fine. I'm very happy, and I saved some money. I don't know what the difference between the old PSU part number and the newer PSU number. I have a feeling SINJIN put Viton seals in the later unit. I talked to my local Mahindra dealer about the PSU leaks and now they started performing rebuilds. They said they have zero leaks. Take care.

 

[cmoo]

Did you buy the 2555 new and how old was it when the PSU started leaking or did it just go out?

 

[RAHarden]

Did you buy the 2555 new and how old was it when the PSU started leaking or did it just go out?

Hi cmoo. I bought the 2016 tractor used, with 180 hours. It was like new condition. It now has 300 or so hours. I bought it from a private owner in Iowa. I think the leak was going on before I bought it, because when I pulled the rubber, floor mat for cleaning, there was oil under the mat. That's when I first got the tractor, and then I started to notice fluid dripping every time I ran it. I thought a hose fitting was leaking, but it was coming out the top seal/steering shaft on the PSU. I was determined to repair the PSU and not spend the $1000 plus price for a new PSU, which people have told me, leak sometimes. I love the tractor, which is not built by Mahindra, but by TYM. The engines may be different, but the PSU is not. Mahindra doesn't warrantee the PSU for over a year. So far, no more leaks.

 

[cmoo]

Hi cmoo. I bought the 2016 tractor used, with 180 hours. It was like new condition. It now has 300 or so hours. I bought it from a private owner in Iowa. I think the leak was going on before I bought it, because when I pulled the rubber, floor mat for cleaning, there was oil under the mat. That's when I first got the tractor, and then I started to notice fluid dripping every time I ran it. I thought a hose fitting was leaking, but it was coming out the top seal/steering shaft on the PSU. I was determined to repair the PSU and not spend the $1000 plus price for a new PSU, which people have told me, leak sometimes. I love the tractor, which is not built by Mahindra, but by TYM. The engines may be different, but the PSU is not. Mahindra doesn't warrantee the PSU for over a year. So far, no more leaks.

Thanx RAH for the reply. I'm just about to pull the trigger on one of the last new Mahindra 1538 Shuttle Shift tractors (replaced by the 16-- Series I'm told) so I've been reading up. Hope to be convinced I'm doing the right thing by Monday when I go to the dealership to buy it. My decision is based largely (not totally) on the fact that Mahindra doesn't have the regen procedure like the other new tractors.

 

[RAHarden]

Thanx RAH for the reply. I'm just about to pull the trigger on one of the last new Mahindra 1538 Shuttle Shift tractors (replaced by the 16-- Series I'm told) so I've been reading up. Hope to be convinced I'm doing the right thing by Monday when I go to the dealership to buy it. My decision is based largely (not totally) on the fact that Mahindra doesn't have the regen procedure like the other new tractors.

My 2555 does not have the regen exhaust like others have. It has a catalytic converter, which can plug in time. They say not to let the engine idle for long periods of time. I don't know what kind if power steering a 1538 has. I doubt if it's like a 2555 model. Ask the dealer. I think the SINJIN PSU is only used in the series of tractors that KYM built for Mahindra, or anything KYM built. A KYM dealer told me this. I read Massy Ferguson had some KYM built tractors. There could be more. They say the KYM brand is a good tractor and people swear by it. I think Mahindra units are good, and I have a large dealer about ten miles away. I like my 2555, even when the PSU leaked. I'm a retired auto & truck mechanic, so I know anything can go wrong, but it can be repaired by the right person. Don't be afraid of a Mahindra, as long as a dealer is near. Also check availability of oil, fuel, hydraulic, air and other things needed for normal maintenance. Mahindra doesn't have anyone but them, sell or manufacture their filters. If I need engine oil filters, I can buy theirs only. They don't show a cross reference at Fram, or other major filter companies. Mahindra has copywrites on these. I did have NAPA help cross the engine oil filter to one of theirs, by sizing and it works fine, but it would probably void the warrantee if Mahindra knew I used it. I think it's a better filter than what Mahindra offers. A new 2555 engine oil filter from Mahindra cost me $45.00. A bit high compared to NAPA at $7.00. This is my only complaint about Mahindra, the filter cost, and it could be the same with other foreign tractor companies. Good luck!

 

[TractorNH]

My 2555 does not have the regen exhaust like others have. It has a catalytic converter, which can plug in time. They say not to let the engine idle for long periods of time.

A new 2555 engine oil filter from Mahindra cost me $45.00. A bit high compared to NAPA at $7.00. This is my only complaint about Mahindra, the filter cost, and it could be the same with other foreign tractor companies. Good luck!

The DOC (catalytic converter) can be problematic if you idle excessively or load the machine down at lower RPM's but it's similar to the problems of DPF in that regard. The engine needs to be run at higher RPM's to generate the exhaust heat needed to keep the DOC clean, no different than needing to run a DPF engine hot.

Don't know where you're getting your filter for the 2555 but my 2655 uses the same engine oil filter and they are about $26. You are probably right about voiding the warranty using the Napa filter. I have spoken with my local filter guy today who can look up and talk to the reps from several manufacturers including Wix, Donaldson, and Amsoil. What each of them told him is the Mahindra filter is a proprietary patented filter and until a filter manufacturer is willing to pay for patent rights to get the detailed info or until the patent runs out they won't be able to get the necessary info to cross reference it. Could they get one that would thread on and fit? Sure, but they can't guarantee it will work correctly without knowing the specs on the Mahindra filter. They don't know how many microns it is or what the designed flow rate is. Is it 5 micron, 10, 15? You could just say get me the filter with the finest level of microns BUT you risk it not being able to flow enough oil which could put the filter into bypass, essentially not filtering ANY of the oil. Obviously too coarse of a filter might not capture the particulates it should be catching. Basically without that very specific info you risk severely damaging your engine. You can do whatever you want but it seems like it would be penny wise, pound foolish to try to save $15 on a filter and damage a several thousand dollar engine. I'll just keep spending the $26 on the Mahindra ones.

 

[RAHarden]

Hi TractorNH. Thanks for the advise. You and I have talked about the engine oil filters before. I purchased the Mahindra filter from the local dealer, the new model # filter, plus they charged shipping. The cost to me was just over $45. No online suppliers could get the new filter, in fact, they weren't aware of the change. I posted info for the NAPA Gold 1324 oil filter back in February 2019. I did research on this filter and the Mahindra filter. Mahindra changed to a different filter, per a tech info bulletin, #18.012, August 2018. The new filter, 006016642V91, is made by Mahle. I called Mahle, but they can't give out info on this filter. I also called or wrote to about every major filter manufacture there is and I got the same story, proprietary patented filter by Mahindra and no one can manufacture these. I then talked to the local Mahindra dealer mechanics. They also sell and repair Case IH. They have Mahindra tech specs for the engines, that are not available to us. I gave the mechanic the NAPA Gold filter spec sheet. He looked at the 2555 engine specs and told me it would be OK to use it. He would not copy the engine specs for me. I then contacted a good friend of mine from Phoenix, Arizona. He's an instructor at an automotive tech school, and he specializes in diesel engines. He has a degree in mechanical engineering. He studied the issue of using the NAPA filter and told me to try it. He was sure it would be fine. So I installed it my last oil change, and with around 25 hours since I installed the NAPA filter, the tractor still runs fine. My friend told me to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge as a back up. I haven't done that yet. The dealer mechanic was sure the tractors computer would shut the engine down, if there was a problem. I don't doubt your thoughts on this. I have concerns about this also. I just feel confident in my decision.

 

[kausher]

Hi there Masempine. My PSU is doing well. No leaks at this time and I have put around 40 hours on it since I did the PSU rebuild. The steering works fine. I'm very happy, and I saved some money. I don't know what the difference between the old PSU part number and the newer PSU number. I have a feeling SINJIN put Viton seals in the later unit. I talked to my local Mahindra dealer about the PSU leaks and now they started performing rebuilds. They said they have zero leaks. Take care.

Hi! I'm going through this issue with my dealer/service on my 2555 right now. The service manager has been just looking for a new pump ($1400 or so). I sent him the info you provided about a rebuild and he is looking into it for me. He's gonna call the o-ring place that you posted and see if they have these in stock.

How goes the tractor since you posted all this? I would be excited to save tons of $$$ doing a rebuild vs. a part replacement. Do you have any updates? Thanks for this thread!

Karl

 

[RAHarden]

Hi Karl! I'm sorry to hear you're having troubles. I hope you're talking about the same item. The part I rebuilt is the power steering control valve, right below the steering wheel. Since I rebuilt my control valve, I have put 120 hours on the tractor, and no leaks. Not even a drop of fluid. It steers fine, maybe better than before, because it was probably leaking internally. It's a simple rebuild. It's all o-rings, a quad ring and a dust lip seal. The hardest part was removing the steering wheel. I had to drill the wheel's metal hub in order to install my puller. The dealer may have the correct puller for this. I just had a car/truck wheel puller. Removing and installing the control valve wasn't too bad, but not easy. Once the control valve is on the work bench, it's an easy repair. Used new Viton seals. Good luck!

 

[DakotPlot]

My 2016, Mahindra 2555 HST, with 236 hours, started dripping oil from the steering column cover area to the floor. The leak is coming from the upper seal on the control valve. It's a drip type leak that get worse as the tractor heats up. The part number for the control valve is 14524054002 and it's not under warranty. This is the new replacement number for the old one, 001. The local Mahindra dealer told me the control can't be rebuilt and a new valve cost around $1000. Not cheap! Has anyone had the same problem with this valve? If so, did you try to repair the control valve or just replace it. I am sure this part was made for Mahindra, but by who. I'll remove it and disassemble it. I would like to see if anything in the valve can be replaced. I figure, nothing to loose. At the least, I'll just have to buy a new valve. Thanks.

Does anyone know the difference between Sinjin 1452-405-400-1 versus -2 versus -3?

The Mahindra parts site indicates the -2 is the current replacement but I noticed that billstractor.net has -3 as the replacement and is quite a bit cheaper.

Mahindra HSU Power Steering Valve 14524054003 (Replaces 14524054002 / 14524054001) â 10, 2500 & 2600 Series

Mahindra HSU power steering valve unit 14524054003, updated replacement for 14524054002 and 14524054001, fits 10 Series 4010/5010/6010, 2500 Series 2538/2540/2545/2555/2565, and 2600 Series 2638/2645/2655 gear and HST tractors; OEM hydrostatic steering control valve for chassis and...

billstractor.net

Also, if I replace this myself should I be worried about any pressure in the lines when I disconnect or does pressure automatically release when tractor shuts off? Just trying to determine how and if I should replace myself. I live quite a long distance from a service provider.

 

[thom1879]

Does anyone know the difference between Sinjin 1452-405-400-1 versus -2 versus -3?

The Mahindra parts site indicates the -2 is the current replacement but I noticed that billstractor.net has -3 as the replacement and is quite a bit cheaper.

Mahindra HSU Power Steering Valve 14524054003 (Replaces 14524054002 / 14524054001) â 10, 2500 & 2600 Series

Mahindra HSU power steering valve unit 14524054003, updated replacement for 14524054002 and 14524054001, fits 10 Series 4010/5010/6010, 2500 Series 2538/2540/2545/2555/2565, and 2600 Series 2638/2645/2655 gear and HST tractors; OEM hydrostatic steering control valve for chassis and...

billstractor.net

Also, if I replace this myself should I be worried about any pressure in the lines when I disconnect or does pressure automatically release when tractor shuts off? Just trying to determine how and if I should replace myself. I live quite a long distance from a service provider.

Just crack the connection slowly to remove any trapped pressure. Unless there is a lot of air in that circuit, there isn't much energy.

 

[thom1879]

I got someone from Sinjin to reply to me. They only sell to OEM's. I requested a schematic and/or a parts list from the current -3 model. I'll share if they share.

 

[RAHarden]

I got someone from Sinjin to reply to me. They only sell to OEM's. I requested a schematic and/or a parts list from the current -3 model. I'll share if they share.

 

[RAHarden]

thom1879, I read your last posts. Sorry I'm so late reading them. I guess TBN stopped send out email notices that I had questions to answer. The hardest part of rebuilding the PS control valve, is removing it from the tractor. I had a heck of a time removing the steering wheel from the control valve shaft. If you are a big man, it's very difficult to do this job, because of all the close quarters. None of the oil lines I removed had any pressure. Once the control valve is on the bench, it's easy. I scribed the parts and took pictures. There isn't much to this thing. All that I discovered were swollen o-rings and the quad-ring. They were enlarged and soft. I doubt if they were Viton. Whatever they were, they reacted to the fluid. The new Viton parts I installed are still sealing and no leakage. My repair has around 200 hours on it and no leaks.

I don't know what the different numbers mean. I bet it has something to do with the type of rubber material that was used. Maybe a modification to the control valve.