Maintenance on an 851 Powermaster

[851 PM Ford]

I actually put a bid in for 50 bucks for those same arms at lunchtime and it was accepted before I got your message! Great minds think alike I guess. Changed the oil after work, Went easy as pie. We do have a tractor supply here.

 

[851 PM Ford]

Sound Guy, while changing the oil earlier, I checked the "diffy". The fluid in there is not milky and looks almost as honey translucent like it came out of a jug not long ago, no discoloration or milkyness. The fella I bought if from said the fluids were replaced when the pto and pto bearing were replaced. (which according to the new hour meter, is approx 50 hours ago.) Think I can go a little longer on those fluids? I've got to get it to work!

I ordered the 6 PDF manuals for this tractor on EBAY and will sit down when they get here so that I can actually identify the drain, inlets, and any associated dipstick or drain holes..... I've got a 14 month old and a 2 month old, don't have a whoooooole lot a time at the moment, if you know what I mean.

Thanks guys.

 

[Soundguy]

if the oil does not look wet, and it is the correct oil.. run it till you got the time / finances to do a baseline service.

rear end has a levl plug ont he back left of the pto..

hyds has the dipstick by the pto lever,

trans has a level plug ont he right side about where your left heel will be, JUST abve the level of the running board. DO NOT take any BOLTS out of the side of the trans.. only the plug.. otherwise you will be reposting about it..

fill for trans is by shifter. fill for hyds is under left thigh / seat, fill for diffy is aft of right but cheek

i got a ton of those 55-64 fords.. they are my favorite. feel free to post, PM or email me anytime if you have any questions. Always glad to help

 

[851 PM Ford]

Thanks Sound Guy!

 

[851 PM Ford]

Well, it was definitely a good thing I bought those draft links, because I was grading it out and my blade hit a small buried stump. My gut hit the steering wheel, my foot went down on the clutch and when it came back up the second jerk popped the one that was missing the ball and half stretched out anyway. In the process of removing the leveling assay I noted that someone had welded a nut on to one of the 2 forks, but didn't bother to remove the bolt while welding, so I either cracked the nut while removing the bolt to get the draft link out or it was running cracked. In any event, I ordered of those too. I'm a civil engineer, and a bit of a perfectionist, so chances are, a lot of the old wore out stuff will be replaced shortly. Also noticed I had a small steam leak in the radiator at the seam. Its a made in china part, and it looks newer. Maybe I can remove it a solder it? I've got a plumbing toolbox with small torches and solder for copper pipe, can this be done?

 

[Soundguy]

seam leaks can be soldered.. yes. takes a lil practice.. and lots of flux.

 

[Soundguy]

ps. you will neet torch heat. this is not a job for an iron.. but you probably knew that.

so.. just sayin..

 

[851 PM Ford]

John, I'm repairing the number 2 valve on this tractor, and thought I'd replace these while in mechanic mode. I opened the cover ( beneath the shifter), but can't seem to tell where these'd go. Can you please help me?

 

[Soundguy]

might need some pics to go with that question?

 

[851 PM Ford]

Crud. I thought I was responding to john bud's photos of "shift plungers". I didn't see anything that resembled those photos and mine does PoP out of 5th gear. Not usually a problem until I drive down the road to borrow an implement. Even then, a bungee across my lap from the shifter keeps it in gear. But if it's truly a 10-15 minute fix, I'll try it. I have an old retired mechanic holding a cane and pointing on the valve head replacement as I turn wrenches, but he doesn't know about the shift "plungers"