Maintenance

[piperc744]

Hey everyone,
I have a Farmpro 2425, it is a 3-cylinder Diesel with 4WD. I have a FEL, as well as a box blade and rough cut for the 3-point on the back. The tractor is a 2005 and I recently purchased it for work on our property as well as plans to start a business. So far we have been using the FEL and box scraper to move a fair amount of dirt. I would estimate about 30x50 ft. we dug and lowered about 2-3 ft. and about a 30x50 has been raised about 3 ft. and that is the "bulk" of the work we have done so far. I have not done any real maintenance on it and think that its time, but I have no idea what to do.... well, I have an idea, I know that I will need a grease gun to hit all the grease points, and hydraulic fluid, along with oil change, and perhaps tranny fluid too??? I have no manual and do not know where all the points are, or anything of that nature.... I could really use a maintenance guide of some sort please. I mean basically pretend I dont know anything and give me a rundown on tractor maintenance please.

Thanks,
Chris

PS- sorry if i posted this in the wrong place...

 

[yooper1]

I am not 100% sure, but I believe I heard that your Farm Pro is similar (or the same) as the Jinma tractors.

I could be wrong.

I found this pdf version online of the Jinma 200 series manual

http://www.atlanticimports.ca/jinma_manual.pdf

It should give you a general idea of what to do for maintenance

I do not know exactly which jinma would match up to your farmpro.

I am sure that if I am wrong, someone will come along and correct me.

Also....welcome to TBN

and...you may want to ask this in the Chinese Tractor Sub-forum here
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/

 

[yooper1]

and this search

TractorByNet.com - Search Results


shows a ton of info on the tractor

I hope it helps

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. should be a jinma.

In any event. I'd run a C rated 15w40 oil in the crakcase unless in cold areas than I'd run 10w30 C rated oil.

In the hyds, if it has seperate hyds sump.. then use UTF fluid.

in trans and diffy and any creeper or drop boxes , and front axles run a gear oil like 80w90.. if you don't know what grease was being used.. just grease the joints till all the old grease is out.. beware.. on 2wd models.. don't overgrease the front hubs..

mind you these are just general tractor maintenance tips.

Of course change and service all filters and strainers.. air tires.. check fasteners and nuts.. body bolts.. look for leaks.. check hoses, belts, coolant, service it to set a baseline.. use a sca/dca precharged fleet coolant or buy the addative at napa... service battery water.. clean cable ends.. etc.. etc..

soundguy

 

[Don87]

yep.. should be a jinma.

In any event. I'd run a C rated 15w40 oil in the crakcase unless in cold areas than I'd run 10w30 C rated oil.

In the hyds, if it has seperate hyds sump.. then use UTF fluid.

in trans and diffy and any creeper or drop boxes , and front axles run a gear oil like 80w90.. if you don't know what grease was being used.. just grease the joints till all the old grease is out.. beware.. on 2wd models.. don't overgrease the front hubs..

mind you these are just general tractor maintenance tips.

Of course change and service all filters and strainers.. air tires.. check fasteners and nuts.. body bolts.. look for leaks.. check hoses, belts, coolant, service it to set a baseline.. use a sca/dca precharged fleet coolant or buy the addative at napa... service battery water.. clean cable ends.. etc.. etc..

soundguy

Golly gee...........all he wanted to do was get some seat time..........

You just shut him down for a month:laughing::laughing:

 

[piperc744]

awesome, this is good stuff guys! lemme get through all this info and i think ill be good to go...

but, one more thing, i ran the tractor for about 3 hrs today and planned on pressure washing the machine afterwards, but upon doing an inspection first, i noticed that there was a fair amount of fluid that had flowed down the back of the tractor, above the 3 pt, it seems to be coming from the hydraulic service valves? (if thats what they are called). and it was a kinda clear liquid so im pretty sure it was hydraulic fluid. what would cause this? would it backpressure out the curved valve? am i running it too rough?

@Don ive had lots of seat time lately, and this will be the first maintenance im doing on the tractor, as we just got it recently, so im parking it until this gets done neway, gonna be busy for a couple days!

also, keep the tips coming, ill take any info u can give!

 

[Soundguy]

Golly gee...........all he wanted to do was get some seat time..........

You just shut him down for a month:laughing::laughing:

Naw.. that's a before lunch type of job..


soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

clean it up back there and pinpoint the leak. if you have quick connects back there, see if it is coming from the couplers.

soundguy

 

[Don87]

awesome, this is good stuff guys! lemme get through all this info and i think ill be good to go...

but, one more thing, i ran the tractor for about 3 hrs today and planned on pressure washing the machine afterwards, but upon doing an inspection first, i noticed that there was a fair amount of fluid that had flowed down the back of the tractor, above the 3 pt, it seems to be coming from the hydraulic service valves? (if thats what they are called). and it was a kinda clear liquid so im pretty sure it was hydraulic fluid. what would cause this? would it backpressure out the curved valve? am i running it too rough?

@Don ive had lots of seat time lately, and this will be the first maintenance im doing on the tractor, as we just got it recently, so im parking it until this gets done neway, gonna be busy for a couple days!

also, keep the tips coming, ill take any info u can give!

Be careful with a pressure washer. Sometimes they can force water into places it shouldn't be. And never use a pressure washer on the radiator, it can bend the cooling fins over causing an overheating situation

 

[piperc744]

Don,
k, well aside from hand scrubbing the whole thing at the end of every day, what would u recommend? i definitely agree that i could force water in bad places, but what would u recommend?

 

[TripleR]

I use compressed air to blow the junk off/out of my tractor especially in the radiator/screens/condenser. For a quick field touch up, I use a high powered leaf blower.

 

[piperc744]

ok, i have a good compressor here and will start using that, and yes, i have been told to blow out the screen especially when mowing. was trying to figure out how i would do it in the field, i dont have a blower, but will look into investing in one asap.

 

[TripleR]

ok, i have a good compressor here and will start using that, and yes, i have been told to blow out the screen especially when mowing. was trying to figure out how i would do it in the field, i don't have a blower, but will look into investing in one asap.

I finally talked my wife into buying one a few years ago to blow off our sidewalks after mowing and to "sweep" out the garage and discovered how handy it was to knock stuff off of the tractor and equipment especially a bush hog/shredder. It is naturally not as good as a good compressor, but is better than anything else I could think of and saves a trip back to the shop.

If you don't already have one TSC makes a really handy 2' long air nozzle for your compressor with a bend on the last couple of inches to get in behind stuff.

 

[piperc744]

absolutely, in the field i would just need something to get the junk off and get the job done so i can go home, then hit it with the compressor real good. great idea. gonna have to figure something out for the first few jobs though..... maybe cans of compressed air lol?

 

[TripleR]

absolutely, in the field i would just need something to get the junk off and get the job done so i can go home, then hit it with the compressor real good. great idea. gonna have to figure something out for the first few jobs though..... maybe cans of compressed air lol?

Heck yeah, you probably have a couple of those sitting around to use on your keyboard.:laughing::laughing:

 

[piperc744]

ok, im gonna go buy a air compressor powered grease gun tomorrow since its only 18$ at autozone, and i cannot find the hand powered ones we have... should that be ok? and ill get some grease cartridges as well, is there any special grease i should be aiming for? i dont know what they used before, so ill just jam it full of new grease i suppose....

also, i saw instructions for removing the hydraulic fluid filters, but is that the same location i should check levels and add fluid? or is there somewhere else to add? also the curved valves i see with red paint on them located at various points on the tractor maybe 2 or 3 total, what are those for? just purging excess or what?

there are also large bolts with red paint on them, like on the front axle, are those the points for adding fluid?

one more thing, i have 5 qts of sae, 10w-30 motor oil here, and cannot tell if it is c rated or s rated... no indications on bottle, its pennzoil and says active cleansing agents. will this do? it also says for any gasoline engine, this worries me since i did some reading and oils made for diesel engines have much more cleaning ingredients... but i keep reading people using the 10w30....

sorry for sounding like a noob guys, but i guess i am, i moved out here to colorado about a year ago and barely knew how to change oil on a car, got me a diesel truck and tractor, and have been learning ever since, any info no matter how "noobish" u think it is, will be GREATLY appreciated....

thanks again, u guys are great, got lucky finding this site!

 

[Don87]

Don,
k, well aside from hand scrubbing the whole thing at the end of every day, what would u recommend? i definitely agree that i could force water in bad places, but what would u recommend?

Mainly hand washing, or just the high pressure strean from a regular garden hose for more stubborn debris.

A tractor is totally different than a car or pickup. On a car, you will do the body with a pressure washer..........no harm there, you can spray the grill...........air conditioner parts are in front, and usually far enough back that you can reach them well.

But..............A tractor is a whole different animal, you will be putting high pressure water spray directly into seals( wheels, 3 point hitch, PTO.........etc.).

A lot of tractors have no air conditioning.......high pressure spray hits radiator fins directly.

Electrical connections are another problem area, on a car..........most are inside the passenger compartment, on most tractors.........they are exposed when the hood is raised, and most aren't sealed that well.

Most of the above is because cars run 24/7 regardless of weather at highway speeds, while tractors are slow vehicles, that see sun.........most of the time, (but not always)

Hope this helps and is understandable.

EDIT: And yes, as TripleR says, compressed air will work also, just be careful to blow straight through the radiator, angles can bend the cooling fins.

 

[Don87]

ok, im gonna go buy a air compressor powered grease gun tomorrow since its only 18$ at autozone, and i cannot find the hand powered ones we have... should that be ok? and ill get some grease cartridges as well, is there any special grease i should be aiming for? i dont know what they used before, so ill just jam it full of new grease i suppose....

also, i saw instructions for removing the hydraulic fluid filters, but is that the same location i should check levels and add fluid? or is there somewhere else to add? also the curved valves i see with red paint on them located at various points on the tractor maybe 2 or 3 total, what are those for? just purging excess or what?

there are also large bolts with red paint on them, like on the front axle, are those the points for adding fluid?

one more thing, i have 5 qts of sae, 10w-30 motor oil here, and cannot tell if it is c rated or s rated... no indications on bottle, its pennzoil and says active cleansing agents. will this do? it also says for any gasoline engine, this worries me since i did some reading and oils made for diesel engines have much more cleaning ingredients... but i keep reading people using the 10w30....

sorry for sounding like a noob guys, but i guess i am, i moved out here to colorado about a year ago and barely knew how to change oil on a car, got me a diesel truck and tractor, and have been learning ever since, any info no matter how "noobish" u think it is, will be GREATLY appreciated....

thanks again, u guys are great, got lucky finding this site!

They make seperate oils , for gas and diesel from what I understand. I personally wouldn't use the oil you described in my Massey.

 

[piperc744]

ok, thanks don, really good to know.

about the oil, i could use some clarification here please. in my 7.3L PSD truck i use 15w40 diesel oil, but ive read that for these tractors, other oils are to be used in some cases.

 

[Don87]

ok, thanks don, really good to know.

about the oil, i could use some clarification here please. in my 7.3L PSD truck i use 15w40 diesel oil, but ive read that for these tractors, other oils are to be used in some cases.

It's usually safe to use 15w40 oil in all diesels, but in colder climates other oils are recommended, I'm using 10w30 Diesel Oil in mine, that's what they recommend for my area.

Personally, I would use nothing but 15w40 in mine, but I want to comply with any warranty issues that may arise.

I should also note that I always allow ample warm-up time for my engine(a lot of people don't). I think that makes a difference, but I'm no expert.

EDIT: I can elaborate further.............'I think'..............that the manufacturers have found that most homeowners start the tractor and gooooo....... thus no warm up, and the need for a lower viscosity oil for these situations.

But most that run diesels for a living know the importance of ample warm up for diesels.

I can give good 'for instances'. I've worked for 3 trucking companies. The guys that jump in the truck, turn the key, and take off.............have the most engine and transmission problems, while the drivers that warm the truck up before they work it............have the least amount of problems.

"guys" and "drivers" were seperated for a reason.