Gale Hawkins
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2009
- Messages
- 8,268
- Location
- Murray, KY
- Tractor
- 1948 Allis Chambers Model B 1976 265 MF / 1983 JD 310B Backhoe / 1966 Ford 3000 Diesel / 1980 3600 Diesel
They should be fine if the dealer uses that source.
Massey 135 Barn Find
- Thread starter zslnk
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- massey ferguson 135
Mike476
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2010
- Messages
- 1,080
- Location
- Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia
- Tractor
- MF 135 Z134 Continental, MF 1660 Cab
They'll be fine, and the price is very reasonable for what you've purchased.
OP
zslnk
Bronze Member
The little Perkins when to the dealers recommended machine shop today. Not a very clean looking spot but there wasn't a diesel head in there that wasn't 4' long. 2 weeks and he says to come pick it up.
I have one valve that was stuck in the head, I tapped it free and it's still not quite smooth. I have a valve spring compressor but I can't seem to get the keepers to free from the stem. Is there a trick to the dual spring valves? There is no rust, they look like new but the stem won't come up. I would like to take this one out to clean out the guide.
Thanks
I have one valve that was stuck in the head, I tapped it free and it's still not quite smooth. I have a valve spring compressor but I can't seem to get the keepers to free from the stem. Is there a trick to the dual spring valves? There is no rust, they look like new but the stem won't come up. I would like to take this one out to clean out the guide.
Thanks
Gale Hawkins
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2009
- Messages
- 8,268
- Location
- Murray, KY
- Tractor
- 1948 Allis Chambers Model B 1976 265 MF / 1983 JD 310B Backhoe / 1966 Ford 3000 Diesel / 1980 3600 Diesel
It just needs to go the the machine shop and let them tear it apart and but in new guide seals and unstick everything so you do not mess up a pistion from a sticking valve like I did.
shona13
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2012
- Messages
- 367
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 148 .Chamberlain Super 70. Caterpillar D4. Chamberlain 354 FEL.Toro 268 rideon kubota L2002fel
G,Day zsink.
Get a 6 inch 1/2" extension and fit a 1/2" a/f socket to it and lay the head flat put the socket over the valve spring disc and give it a sharp tap with a hammer the valve collets will jump out .
Happy Days .
Hutch.
Get a 6 inch 1/2" extension and fit a 1/2" a/f socket to it and lay the head flat put the socket over the valve spring disc and give it a sharp tap with a hammer the valve collets will jump out .
Happy Days .
Hutch.
OP
zslnk
Bronze Member
Got the valve all fixed up, I'm going to take it to a shop to get a bath and lap the valves but I wanted to inspect the valve stem first and it's all good. The brass bore brush worked very well.
The CLUTCH...
While I wait for my engine to be re-done I'm inspecting all the other bits. Here is the clutch, looks like new like everything else but has some rust. If this was a car I'd get the flywheel re-surfaced and put a new pressure plate in. Will this just scuff off or does it require a replacement. I'm tempted to take a scotch brite pad to remove the bulk and let it wear in as it is. Will it be a jumpy?
The CLUTCH...
While I wait for my engine to be re-done I'm inspecting all the other bits. Here is the clutch, looks like new like everything else but has some rust. If this was a car I'd get the flywheel re-surfaced and put a new pressure plate in. Will this just scuff off or does it require a replacement. I'm tempted to take a scotch brite pad to remove the bulk and let it wear in as it is. Will it be a jumpy?
The kid
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2012
- Messages
- 3,888
- Location
- Middle Tennessee
- Tractor
- 1965 135 gasser, 1967 135 diesel
If it will clean off with a scotch brite then, if it where me, that"s all it would need. looks like a bit of surface rust that will be gone the first couple time you use the clutch.
banjodunn
Veteran Member
G'day as said just buff the rust off, also I would look at replacing the front trans seals as they are prob dry and hard and easy to do now it is apart
Jon
Jon
namyessam
Gold Member
Something for everyone to think about. As I have originally posted, I had to do a complete rebuild on my Cont. Z145 engine shortly after I bought my MF 135. The Machinist at the shop that guided me through the process and redid the head told me to always run a good grade of diesel oil in the crankcase and use a zinc additive like the breakin oil from Lucas oil. He told me to use this additive always and not just for breakin. He said that oil from back in the 60's and 70's had zinc in them and it is a friction preventative. Since everyone is going green, someone had an idea that it was bad for the enviorment or catalitic converters. Diesel oil such as Rotella still has it but is being forced to remove it eventually. Engines of today are built to higher standards to allow not having zinc in the oil. He said that the additional cost of the diesel oil and additive are far cheaper than and engine rebuild. The lobes on the cam and followers are the most affected.
shona13
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2012
- Messages
- 367
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 148 .Chamberlain Super 70. Caterpillar D4. Chamberlain 354 FEL.Toro 268 rideon kubota L2002fel
G,Day zsink .
Just a few words of wisdom to make your task as easy as it can be.
Before you refit the clutch Get three 1/4 unc or whitworth setscrews with nuts ,( Threaded all the way ),centre the pto plate and screw the bolts with the nuts run all the way up into the three holes, one of the holes is right next to the letter D in dual , screw them ALL THE WAY INTO THE COVER BEFORE YOU START TO COMPRESS THE ASSEMBLY,screw the three screws EVENLY Till they bring the clutch cover into contact with the front plate You will need a clutch centering tool to line up BOTH PLATES dont try putting the tractor together without lining up the clutch first or two things could happen, One you will damage or bend one of the plates normally the pto plate as this is the first one to contact,and the other thing that could happen is you could run out of beer cos you are going to be there with your helper for quite some time trying to put it together.
When putting everything back together fit the engine to the transmission first before you start get two 7/16 unc Studs about 4 inches long if you want you can use two head studs borrowed from your neighbours tractor these are the correct size .
Fit the studs into the transmission case one either side just to help line up the clutch and as you bring the engine into the transmission and onto the studs check with a tape measure and keep the both bits even that is engine to transmission measure the gap the more accurate the easier it will go together,
put the pto into gear and get your best friend to put a big crescent onto the pto shaft and turn it back and forth (it should not be hard and he will know when it is engaged) to line up the splines .
When the pto clutch is in PUT THE LEVER BACK IN NEUTRAL and keep wiggling the engine ,it will go in till about 1inch when you get it this far put the transmission in high third gear with the park brake on and turn the engine with the fan blades just back and forth you will feel it go in all the way .
refit all bolts etc .
The front axle assembly .
First use wooden wedges to stop the radiator and axle housing flopping around ,making sure that the radiator is as near straight up and down,then with one person either side wheel the assembly into the front of the engine and bolt it on Note : LEAVE THE FUEL TANK TILL LAST it allows better access to all the fiddly bits.
Looking at the clutch I would not bother cleaning it you can give it a bit of a clean with your foot when you get the tractor running ,Like put it in second high range with the engine running and slip the clutch a little bit not to much it would be good if you got the misssus to stand real close to the tractor and get her to shout real loud when she can SMELL something burning ,only jocking .
Thats all for now, got to get back to work ,we are harvesting Macadamias hopefully this is the last day .
Oroo .
Hutch.
Just a word of caution NEVER TRY TO PULL THE TWO PARTS TOGETHER WITH BOLTS YOU WILL DAMAGE THE CLUTCH.
N
Just a few words of wisdom to make your task as easy as it can be.
Before you refit the clutch Get three 1/4 unc or whitworth setscrews with nuts ,( Threaded all the way ),centre the pto plate and screw the bolts with the nuts run all the way up into the three holes, one of the holes is right next to the letter D in dual , screw them ALL THE WAY INTO THE COVER BEFORE YOU START TO COMPRESS THE ASSEMBLY,screw the three screws EVENLY Till they bring the clutch cover into contact with the front plate You will need a clutch centering tool to line up BOTH PLATES dont try putting the tractor together without lining up the clutch first or two things could happen, One you will damage or bend one of the plates normally the pto plate as this is the first one to contact,and the other thing that could happen is you could run out of beer cos you are going to be there with your helper for quite some time trying to put it together.
When putting everything back together fit the engine to the transmission first before you start get two 7/16 unc Studs about 4 inches long if you want you can use two head studs borrowed from your neighbours tractor these are the correct size .
Fit the studs into the transmission case one either side just to help line up the clutch and as you bring the engine into the transmission and onto the studs check with a tape measure and keep the both bits even that is engine to transmission measure the gap the more accurate the easier it will go together,
put the pto into gear and get your best friend to put a big crescent onto the pto shaft and turn it back and forth (it should not be hard and he will know when it is engaged) to line up the splines .
When the pto clutch is in PUT THE LEVER BACK IN NEUTRAL and keep wiggling the engine ,it will go in till about 1inch when you get it this far put the transmission in high third gear with the park brake on and turn the engine with the fan blades just back and forth you will feel it go in all the way .
refit all bolts etc .
The front axle assembly .
First use wooden wedges to stop the radiator and axle housing flopping around ,making sure that the radiator is as near straight up and down,then with one person either side wheel the assembly into the front of the engine and bolt it on Note : LEAVE THE FUEL TANK TILL LAST it allows better access to all the fiddly bits.
Looking at the clutch I would not bother cleaning it you can give it a bit of a clean with your foot when you get the tractor running ,Like put it in second high range with the engine running and slip the clutch a little bit not to much it would be good if you got the misssus to stand real close to the tractor and get her to shout real loud when she can SMELL something burning ,only jocking .
Thats all for now, got to get back to work ,we are harvesting Macadamias hopefully this is the last day .
Oroo .
Hutch.
Just a word of caution NEVER TRY TO PULL THE TWO PARTS TOGETHER WITH BOLTS YOU WILL DAMAGE THE CLUTCH.
N
