Oil & Fuel Massey 165 won't stay running

[gengine]

If your talking about the injector pump, there are two of them. I think there are six lines on that pump. Four of them are horizontal coming from the round part of the pump towards the rear. The other two come out vertically, and those are the two you need to bleed by using the hand pump. If you are talking about the lifter pump, the easy way is to drain around a third of the fuel from the glass sediment bowl, then use the hand pump to fill it back up again. The air should purge out through the "overflow". If it doesn't fill up, your gaskets on your filters may be in the wrong place.

Edit: if the glass bowl fills back up, then continue the hand pumping until you hear fuel spurting back into the tank. It's possible you need to rebuild the lifter pump. I think my rebuild kit was around $30 last fall from AGCO. I haven't installed it yet, but it's fairly simple.

 

[rustyk4]

Yep, you're right about that. But I was thinking there is a fuel pump AND an injector pump. Am I wrong about that? If I'm not, where is the fuel pump located?

Ok. AGCO is where the filters came from. After changing them it started and ran fine ... for half a day, then did the same thing again. Perhaps the lifter pump is bad. I hope it's that simple. (I'm fearing the injector pump is bad)...I'll try it tomorrow morning. I'l exhausted right now

 

[Dieseltech]

Still sounds like metering valve is sticking, will be slow to accelerate, will die on deceleration, or underrun low idle speed and die. Will cause hard starting too, main plungers in rotor can stick also, just fixed a MF 135 pump from Missouri that would not start. Still need to check supply side first though.

 

[rustyk4]

Boy, that sure sounds like my problem! How hard is that to fix? How do I check supply side first? With the hand pump?

 

[gengine]

If you drain out some of the fuel from the glass bowl, then crank the motor, the bowl will fill up. Then you know your supply should be good. Cracking the vertical line coming from the rear of the injector pump and cranking or hand pumping until you get fuel will make sure all of your supply is fine. I hope you don't need a pump rebuilt. I thought I had a problem with mine, and a remanufactured pump was around $700 after the core charge.

 

[rustyk4]

What about the metering valve sticking? Is that a rebuild thing or something easier? Will a injector cleaning fluid help it?

 

[rustyk4]

My big problem right now is my nearest dealership is 1.5 hours away. I can't load it and take it there. My neighbors who are handy at fixing masseys are very busy right now, getting ready to plant. so I'm running out of time and I don't trust myself to remove an injector pump without damaging it more

 

[gengine]

It must have been a long day... There are two levers on the top cover of your injector pump. The big one to the rear is your metering valve, and the little one is your fuel shut off valve. Make sure your shut off valve is opening all the way. If the cable is sliding some, it could be causing you problems.

 

[gengine]

You can take off the linkage to the arms, then make sure they are traveling freely first.

 

[Dieseltech]

Injection pump is not hard to remove and replace on 165, remove all lines, oil fill adapter, then find three bolts through gear that thread into drive hub, can be 1/2 hex head or allen head. Gear stays in cover, can't jump time as gear is tight in housing. Dowel pin in gear aligns in pump hub notch for correct timing, can't go back wrong. Have been repairing pumps since 1976, have grown up with MF equip and worked at Deaton Equip MF dealer years ago. Check supply side completely first, if injection pump has to come off there are three studs/nuts holding in place, top one next to block is hardest. If you like call 574 893 4172 evenings after 7 PM best time, can answer any questions you have.