Massey Ferguson 135 issues

[BigHoss165]

Haven't had much opportunity to look at it it's been raining so much. I did check the oil and the level is still full. I don't really know what to check to know if it's mixing with diesel. It doesn't run off the stick when you pull it out. I checked the vent tube coming from the valve cover and it wasn't clogged. Tractor still won't crank on it's on. Have to spray WD-40 while spinning it over. Do I need to go buy a compression test kit and check that? Will that tell if it's a possible cracked ring or piston? Just trying to check all I can before I have to look into a rebuild.

 

[JethroB]

Here is a copy of the MF 135 owners manual in pdf format. Perhaps you will find it useful. Our 135 has been in the family since new in 1975. 5300+ hours and counting. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[BigHoss165]

Here is a copy of the MF 135 owners manual in pdf format. Perhaps you will find it useful. Our 135 has been in the family since new in 1975. 5300 plus hours and counting. Good luck and enjoy.

Thank you very much. I already purchased the owner's manual, parts manual, and service manual

 

[redman135]

BigHoss165, to check for diesel in engine oil, pull the dipstick and smell it, you said you changed the engine so there should NOY be any diesel smell. 2nd test is to rub some btween finger and thumb, oil only will feel smooth, while dieseled oil will feel thin and smell.

Lastly, Black Smoke, 2 things, check the rubber pipe between the air filter is not collapsing under revs.
next, you don't say weather you have a paper or oil bath filter. If oil bath release the ring clamp (near bottom of air filter) and remove of filter and change the oil (oil level marked) then remove the internal canister, this is about 2" thick. It is desiged to be washable. Get some petrol and brush the crap out of the bottom of the mesh. The internal canister is tightly packed steel mesh, and near imposible to repack, so don't open it.

 

[BigHoss165]

BigHoss165, to check for diesel in engine oil, pull the dipstick and smell it, you said you changed the engine so there should NOY be any diesel smell. 2nd test is to rub some btween finger and thumb, oil only will feel smooth, while dieseled oil will feel thin and smell.

Lastly, Black Smoke, 2 things, check the rubber pipe between the air filter is not collapsing under revs.
next, you don't say weather you have a paper or oil bath filter. If oil bath release the ring clamp (near bottom of air filter) and remove of filter and change the oil (oil level marked) then remove the internal canister, this is about 2" thick. It is desiged to be washable. Get some petrol and brush the crap out of the bottom of the mesh. The internal canister is tightly packed steel mesh, and near imposible to repack, so don't open it.

Far as I know it's not the oil bath one but I will double check. I'll search to see if I can find pictures of both to see which one I have. Okay thank you I will check the oil tomorrow

 

[mllud]

Haven't had much opportunity to look at it it's been raining so much. I did check the oil and the level is still full. I don't really know what to check to know if it's mixing with diesel. It doesn't run off the stick when you pull it out. I checked the vent tube coming from the valve cover and it wasn't clogged. Tractor still won't crank on it's on. Have to spray WD-40 while spinning it over. Do I need to go buy a compression test kit and check that? Will that tell if it's a possible cracked ring or piston? Just trying to check all I can before I have to look into a rebuild.

In the photo below the damage to the piston was caused by thee previous owner using starting fluid. Two of three cylinders had cracked lands and rings. I'm not sure if wd40 could also do similar damage.
Does your manifold heater work. If its working properly you can see diesel vapor at the intake manifold after 15 seconds holding the switch with the air cleaner disconnected. It will start if you have diesel fuel vaporizing. In warmer weather a good engine will state without the heater. You may want to do a compression check.
Avoid using fluids to start the engine. Its doing nothing to solve the starting issue.
Will the engine restart on its own after its warmed up?
Your fuel will bleed down out of the injector lines and loose prime if you have leaks at the filters or in any lines.


The piston rings weren't lined up like that when it was removed. I turned them to show damage to the lands.

 

[BigHoss165]

In the photo below the damage to the piston was caused by thee previous owner using starting fluid. Two of three cylinders had cracked lands and rings. I'm not sure if wd40 could also do similar damage.
Does your manifold heater work. If its working properly you can see diesel vapor at the intake manifold after 15 seconds holding the switch with the air cleaner disconnected. It will start if you have diesel fuel vaporizing. In warmer weather a good engine will state without the heater. You may want to do a compression check.
Avoid using fluids to start the engine. Its doing nothing to solve the starting issue.
Will the engine restart on its own after its warmed up?
Your fuel will bleed down out of the injector lines and loose prime if you have leaks at the filters or in any lines.


The piston rings weren't lined up like that when it was removed. I turned them to show damage to the lands.
View attachment 661449

Mine doesn't have the heater on it. No it won't start on it's own after warmed up. I let it run about 10 minutes and it wouldn't start back up on it's own.

 

[mllud]

Mine doesn't have the heater on it. No it won't start on it's own after warmed up. I let it run about 10 minutes and it wouldn't start back up on it's own.

Your tractor sat for a time and has unknown history. The injection pump is a lot more complicated than a carb.. It controls timing of injection. If you want to have dependable starting and running , start with an injection pump rebuild. The fact that it will run is a plus. Even if your engine ends up needing a rebuild you need an injection pump that you know is working right. Its money well spent.
There is a forum member thepumpguySC that rebuilds pumps. You wont find a more trustworthy fair guy to rebuild your pump. Google him.

No heater ??? Look on the intake for a wire connection and a small fuel tubing going too it

 

[mllud]

Yours could very well be different. Inside the red circle is a manifold hearer that's fed by diesel fuel. Not a block heater. The wire is off of the one pictured

 

[BigHoss165]

Yours could very well be different. Inside the red circle is a manifold hearer that's fed by diesel fuel. Not a block heater. The wire is off of the one pictured

View attachment 661495

Mine just has a plug right there