Massey GC 2310 now with HEAT!

[JMynes]

I got tired of eating twice-blown snow, so I got the local Massey dealer to install a cab on the GC2310 and hydraulic chute rotator on the Puma. Found a heater on eBay, it's either the Maradyne 5000 or a clone. The day the tractor was ready, the heater came in the mail.
I spent a cold Sunday morning plumbing the heater up. I plumbed in to the water pump/thermostat bypass loop. On the little Iseki engine a 3/8 hose fit loosely, but 5/16 fit perfect. Some brass barb fittings and a couple of brass 1/2" threaded couplers, and I had it adapted up to the 5/8 pipes on the heater.
It was a hurry-up job just to get it working before the storm, and is not in it's final form. I'm going to add a diverter valve and tee so I can shut off the flow to the heater in the Summer, and I have to wire up a SPDT toggle for the two speed fan.
It doesn't throw massive heat, but it certainly keeps the cab warm. I think the 5/16 hose might be too small for massive heat, although, grabbing the brass fittings to check the temp shows it's plenty hot.
My opinion is that the bypass is the best spot to plumb in to for a cab heater. Any and all heat the engine puts into the coolant goes through that bypass until such time as the thermostat opens, and the flow through there stays hot after that. Plumbing into the radiator hoses can delay heat until the thermostat opens, not my idea of fun.

 

[WilliamBos]

Could you post some pics of the heater plumbing to & from the heater?? We are going to do the same with our 1523.

Thanks, and congrats.

I got tired of eating twice-blown snow, so I got the local Massey dealer to install a cab on the GC2310 and hydraulic chute rotator on the Puma. Found a heater on eBay, it's either the Maradyne 5000 or a clone. The day the tractor was ready, the heater came in the mail.
I spent a cold Sunday morning plumbing the heater up. I plumbed in to the water pump/thermostat bypass loop. On the little Iseki engine a 3/8 hose fit loosely, but 5/16 fit perfect. Some brass barb fittings and a couple of brass 1/2" threaded couplers, and I had it adapted up to the 5/8 pipes on the heater.
It was a hurry-up job just to get it working before the storm, and is not in it's final form. I'm going to add a diverter valve and tee so I can shut off the flow to the heater in the Summer, and I have to wire up a SPDT toggle for the two speed fan.
It doesn't throw massive heat, but it certainly keeps the cab warm. I think the 5/16 hose might be too small for massive heat, although, grabbing the brass fittings to check the temp shows it's plenty hot.
My opinion is that the bypass is the best spot to plumb in to for a cab heater. Any and all heat the engine puts into the coolant goes through that bypass until such time as the thermostat opens, and the flow through there stays hot after that. Plumbing into the radiator hoses can delay heat until the thermostat opens, not my idea of fun.

 

[JMynes]

I plan to put some pictures up soon, but not until I get it in it's final form. Like I said, It was a rush job just to get it working.
Probably finish it up next weekend if the weather is nice.

 

[JMynes]

The plumbing is still not done, but here are some pics of the connection to the bypass. I removed the air cleaner for the pictures, when hooking it up I also drained the radiator and pulled the end of the upper radiator hose for better access.
There's also a picture of the switch box I made from off the shelf parts. The box is from Radio Shack, switches from TSC, and the 6 circuit fuse panel (inside box) is a generic Buss product.
So far I like how it came out. Still got to pretty it up some, but it all works!

 

[bobzap]

OMG Another project! I gotta get heat by next winter. Is that the MF cab? Could you post Pix of the cab also... Don't ask I'm already jealous. How do I tell the wife I want to spend more money on the tractor? Heat would be Neat, I'm a poet and don't know it.

 

[plowking]

Pretty good job getting heat,considering the 2310 has the radiator, engine mounted backwards,less chance of heat being thrown back toward operator. I traded my 2310 for a 1531. It has the engine,radiator mounted the conventional way. It throws heat towards the operator,fine in winter,not so good in summer. plowking

 

[JMynes]

OMG Another project! I gotta get heat by next winter. Is that the MF cab? Could you post Pix of the cab also... Don't ask I'm already jealous. How do I tell the wife I want to spend more money on the tractor? Heat would be Neat, I'm a poet and don't know it.

Can't help you with the wife, I don't have one of those. That's one upgrade I'm just not going to install.
It's a Curtis Cab, couldn't find a source other than the Massey dealership. The dealer in Northwood seems to know about them, we talked about the cab among other things.
The heater is from ebay, much less dinero than the one the dealer was pushing.
Here are some pics. One of the tractor with cab. The other is how I used to have to dress. I can't snowblow in a t-shirt, but a light jacket is much better than the layered Yukon rig I had to wear.

 

[bwc]

Great looking tractor. Although I do not have a MF, my JD 455 has the reverse engine layout like yours. The heater is just fair if it is cold out IF I do not block off 80% of the rad with a thin piece of cardboard. Makes a huge difference. When the temps get warmer I remove the cardboard as the temp gauge starts to climb. I also installed a 185* t'stat vs the 160* oem. My cab is hardsided JD but the heater is three speed I picked up from Princess Auto back in 2001. Has worked well and it makes blowing snow pleasureable. If it is really cold I block off rad 100%. I am surprised at how these small diesels run so cold.

Brian

 

[Labrat]

These small idi diesels have two issues.

1. They run a 160 T stat because if you start the engine and lean on it hard before the thermostat opens you take a chance of overheating the pre-chambers and cracking the head.

2. The radiator fan moves so much air it actually super cools the engine especially on colder days. I found that the engine temp won't get above 142 on a 20 degree day with the amount of air the fan moves.

I replaced my radiator fan with a 12" electric fan that turns on at 185 and off at 160. This gives me great heat and lets me keep the 160 T stat for coolant flow.

 

[JMynes]

These small idi diesels have two issues.

1. They run a 160 T stat because if you start the engine and lean on it hard before the thermostat opens you take a chance of overheating the pre-chambers and cracking the head.

2. The radiator fan moves so much air it actually super cools the engine especially on colder days. I found that the engine temp won't get above 142 on a 20 degree day with the amount of air the fan moves.

I replaced my radiator fan with a 12" electric fan that turns on at 185 and off at 160. This gives me great heat and lets me keep the 160 T stat for coolant flow.

I like the electric fan idea.

My former boss has a tractor like mine, a 2300, and was concerned about moving snow and the possibility of plunging a hot engine into a cold snowbank and breaking stuff. I told him after working it hard for a couple of hours in the winter I was able to grab and hold onto the upper radiator hose, warm to the touch, but certainly not hot.

I kind of suspected that big direct drive fan was VERY effective.

What make and part number is that electric fan? Does it come with a switch? Where does the switch go?

 

[irvingj]

JMynes-- do you know which model # that Curtis cab is? You got it through Northwood? How much did it run?

 

[JMynes]

I got mine from Waterman's where I bought the tractor. I talked to the owner at Northwood, he sells the same stuff. I paid 2700 installed, the Northwood guy said that was a good price. But, he didn't specify if that meant good for me or good for Waterman's.
I did get the chance to do some snowblowing in windy conditions. It was worth every penny!
I don't know the model number. I'm pretty sure it fits another make of tractor, and it's close enough to fit the Massey.

 

[irvingj]

Sorry, two last questions-- what's the height (from ground) & width at the roof? (That is a folding ROPS you've got there, right?) Trying to figure if it'll fit in my parking spot.... Thanks!

 

[JMynes]

The folding ROPS is about six inches higher than the roof. The Mickey Mouse Ears (flashing amber lights) are wider than the cab. I can get some measurements later today.
The 2310 ROPS flares out a little wider than the 2300, so if you have a 2300 the width of Mickey's ears is going to be different.

 

[JMynes]

76" high by 42" wide.

 

[bobzap]

Hi again! Can you sit in the seat with that canopy on for BH operation? (assuming you have a BH) or do you plan to remove it during digging season?

 

[irvingj]

JMynes-- obviously, you've stirred up some interest here....

Yes, I have the 2310 also. The place where I park it is under a shed-roof attachment to my garage, and it LOOKS like it might just fit!

However, the ROPS has to be folded down in order for me to fit the tractor in there. There's about about 78-79" of clearance from the floor up to the roof rafters on the left (lower) side, just inboard of the ROPS.

It doesn't look like your cab attaches to the ROPS, but is that the case? How is it supported? I'll take another look at your pics.

 

[JMynes]

Irvingj,
A picture is truly worth a thousand words. Now that I've seen what you're up against, I will take another picture with a tape measure in it that should give you a real good dimension on that right side.
Bobzap,
All of the soft panels are easily removed. The doors lift off, and the other vinyl panels are held to the structure with velcro. The rear is one big panel, once it is removed, the rear is wide open. The only "panel" that doesn't come off easily is the glass windshield.
I have not removed the rear panel and spun the seat around yet. As you know, the seat is higher when facing the rear. This may present headroom problems. When the weather gets a little nicer I will pull that panel off and try that seat position. I don't do lots of backhoe work, so if I have to crouch a little I won't mind. You're mileage may vary.
More to follow......

 

[JMynes]

Irvingj, a few pictures that should help.
Bottom of the tape measure is at the ROPS hinge. Roof of the cab is at 17".
The cab is officially for the non-backhoe version, and mounting brackets to clamp to the ROPS are higher and further inboard. New holes were drilled lower to get below the hinge and, of course, further outboard.
The roof extends 2" beyond, wider than, the outer edge of the ROPS. Door hinges and door handles are wider yet, but the widest part of the tractor remains the flasher lights.

 

[irvingj]

Guess I'll have to come up & see you! I've got an old Army buddy who lives in Leeds, haven't been up there in a while (though it's HIS turn to come down here...).

I'll check to see if I have clearance to the rafters 17" above hinge line and 2" outboard of the ROPS. Tomorrow. (Dead tired at the moment.)

Thanks for the pics-- I see how the cab top is mounted, "clamped" onto the ROPS. Which new holes did you have to drill?

This cab thing is sounding better all the time, if it'll fit and I can come up with the $$! (Ever seen a human snowman?)